Hey everyone,
I am looking for a way to give the reverb control on a super more control instead of being way too much after turning up around 4. I saw an article where some guy calculated the reverb mix resistors to a certain value which gave more control and I stopped and asked myself this.
If fender used a 100K linear pot for the reverb and the reverb is too much, too quick it would make sense to change to a Log pot instead. This would be 20 to 30% at the half way point.
Does anyone agree with this method ?
I can't understand why someone is calculating all resistors and going to the board instead of a simple solution of a different taper. Please let me know if I am missing something or why My idea is not the best solution ?
Thanks
Fender Reverb Question
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collinsamps
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Re: Fender Reverb Question
You would be better off keeping an audio/log pot and going with a higher resistance that mixes less reverb. 1 Meg isn't uncommon for a fix there, others add a resistor to accomplish the same thing.
If you want to make it sound better as well as be more functional, leave your 100k pot in place and consider replacing the 1Meg resistor from reverb drive grid to ground with a 1 Meg Audio taper pot. That will give you a dwell control and let you set the level for how hard the pan gets hit with the dry signal. That way the problem is solved and you get more control all around. Of course you need to find a place to mount the new pot, extensions speaker jack, polarity switch hole etc.
If you want to make it sound better as well as be more functional, leave your 100k pot in place and consider replacing the 1Meg resistor from reverb drive grid to ground with a 1 Meg Audio taper pot. That will give you a dwell control and let you set the level for how hard the pan gets hit with the dry signal. That way the problem is solved and you get more control all around. Of course you need to find a place to mount the new pot, extensions speaker jack, polarity switch hole etc.
Re: Fender Reverb Question
I'll play Captain Obvious here...
Have you tried different tubes for the reverb driver or return?
Like a 12AV7 instead of AT7?
Have you tried different tubes for the reverb driver or return?
Like a 12AV7 instead of AT7?
Re: Fender Reverb Question
I'll play Co-Captain Obvious...Cygnus X1 wrote:I'll play Captain Obvious here...
Have you tried different tubes for the reverb driver or return?
Like a 12AV7 instead of AT7?
Have you tried it, and what did you hear?
Thank You
Re: Fender Reverb Question
If you change the value of resistors or pots in the reverb mix circuit, you will also change the voltage divider that controls how much dry signal goes to the reverb mix amp. This may or may not be a bad thing. But you can also play with the input side of the reverb to accomplish the same thing. Change the 1Meg resistor after the 500pf to a voltage divider to adjust how hard the springs are driven. Or change it to 1Meg "Dwell" control pot. Changing the reverb driver tube works too. I haven't tried the AV7, but have used the AU7 which sounds nice. There's also incredible variability between different 12AT7 -- huge differences in transconductance and current, so just tryingdifferent 12AT7s is fun, too.
Re: Fender Reverb Question
Yes, in my '67 Deluxe Reverb.hired hand wrote:I'll play Co-Captain Obvious...Cygnus X1 wrote:I'll play Captain Obvious here...
Have you tried different tubes for the reverb driver or return?
Like a 12AV7 instead of AT7?
Have you tried it, and what did you hear?
Thank You
I changed the send tube from 12AT7 to 12AV7
The return tube-I put in a 12AT7 instead of 7025 and it increased the sweep from that nasty peak at "3" to a nice usable range to "6".
And it was quieter.
Re: Fender Reverb Question
Change to a 12AY7?
Re: Fender Reverb Question
Thanks everyone for your replys. I thought of several ways to make the reverb more flexible but asking helps out.
thanks
thanks
Re: Fender Reverb Question
That would also work.M Fowler wrote:Change to a 12AY7?