Bassman 5F6a

[M Fowler]

I was bidding on Ebay and won a tweed bassman 4x10 cab just what I needed right? Well I always wanted to build one. Now I need advise on who's chassis I should go with. The mounting holes on top are 19 inches apart so a 20 inch chassis is standard I think?

Any ideas on using OD caps or any other hints, please let me know what you think, thanks.

Mark

[billyz]

Sozo is coming out with a Blue molded cap soon. Might be the most authentic sounding ones to use. OD's tend to be bright and sterile in a fender circuit, compared to Astrons or the Blue Molded caps.

[Andy Le Blanc]

fab your own chassis.

[M Fowler]

Thanks for the replies guys, I know there have been many people that have built this amp before so I am going to keep seeking advise and all that I can get, then sort it out and see what I come up with.

I had gone back on some old posts and there was some interesting discussion about this circuit and caps to use.

Mark

[Phil_S]

fab your own chassis.

I'm with Andy. Buy a blank Hammond or Bud chassis (Digikey, Mouser, Newark, Parts Express, etc.) and make your own. Aluminum is easier to drill than steel. You can use spade bits on aluminum for the socket holes. If you do this and get stuck, post here. More than one of us does his own dirty work. Many of us do it with simple tools. Drill press, router, etc., are nice to have, but not needed at all.

OK, maybe I'm not with Andy on this one if he meant to bend your own box. IMO, that's too difficult to get right without a sheet metal break. If you know a roofer, he's got one of those.

[Kregg]

I've used three Weber chassis, 5F1, 5E7, & 5F6(a) and they're all very well crafted, https://taweber.powweb.com/store/chassis/chord2.html Scroll down to the 5E6 chassis. Yes the mounting holes are 19". Remember too that Fender used a bracket to hold the weight of the PT which is visible near the right edge, http://www.ggjaguar.com/60bman.htm

[Andy Le Blanc]

You can get a sheet metal break at tractor supply, $300-ish. It'll do up to 16ga. mild steel.

[M Fowler]

I got a friend that can do the metal break I just didn't think I would do that with this type of build but rather go with the nice polished and detailed chassis of the 5F6a if you know what I mean.

I have done enough hole drilling and punching already in both steel and aluminum. I need a nice clean already to fill the holes chassis like Mojo's or others.

Mark

[Andy Le Blanc]

I started off after heathkit and before the internet, I've always had to fab the
chassis and box, no kits were out there and parts were easy to get a yard sales.
Now in the back of my mind I see the price tag on things and usually think,
"screw that, I can fab it for next to nothing" , Its more fun when you're forced
to do more than just the assembly, you aint working at McDonald's, there's more
to it than just slapping together burgers. And the shine does nothing for the tone.

[ChrisA]

OK, maybe I'm not with Andy on this one if he meant to bend your own box. IMO, that's too difficult to get right without a sheet metal break. If you know a roofer, he's got one of those.

Actually it is not all that hard to do, It just takes a lot of time.

The first step is so make a wood form that is the same size as the inside of the chassis. then make a 3/4 inch plank the same size. Bolt these two together with your pre cut sheet metal inside. Then bend the metal over the form using a hardwood block and a hammer. Actually the form needs to have angles slightly more than 90 degrees (to allow for "spring back") and the edges radiused

Many people have built airplane parts this way, A wing rib is way more complex then a box.

That said, Hammond sells the right size chassis in both aluminum and steel for about $30.

[Zippy]

I would not go aluminum on this build - stainless steel or heavy chrome plate on steel is preferred (with a brass backing plate). I wish Mission Amps did a chassis for the 5F6A - his tweed Super chassis is, well... super!

[collinsamps]

Mojo's 5F6A is back ordered until the 15th, can't go wrong with theirs and webers is ok also.

[tubeswell]

FWIW I made a folding brake for $35 a month or so ago. It seems to do a decent enough job on 1.2mm Ally. (Here's a pic of my supertweed bassman chassis - 65cm long)

There's a couple of articles:

http://autospeed.co.nz/cms/title_Foldin ... ticle.html

http://www.cowtown.net/mikefirth/sheetm ... SHEETMETAL

http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf


Or you can buy a ready-made one for cheapish

http://www.bacindustries.com/bending.html

[Phil_S]

Tubeswell: I see Weldbond on your bench. I love that stuff. I haven't seen it in the stores for a dog's age. A bottle lasts me a long time. At some point I'm going to have to find out where it's sold. The last one I've got has a price sticker on it. I can't tell you the last time I saw a price sticker on merchandise. I know you can't help. You're in NZ, I'm in USA.

[tubeswell]

I see Weldbond on your bench. I love that stuff. I haven't seen it in the stores for a dog's age. A bottle lasts me a long time. At some point I'm going to have to find out where it's sold. The last one I've got has a price sticker on it. I can't tell you the last time I saw a price sticker on merchandise. I know you can't help. You're in NZ, I'm in USA.

Hi Phil

I use it all the time - esp for gluing fabric to my cabs. Ya just cain't beat it. I get it from a local homebuilding hardware bulk merchant. Maybe contact the folks at weldbond and find out where its sold in your neck of the woods

http://www.weldbondusa.com/