Brite switch

[leleduke]

Does anyone play the express without the bright switch engaged? I find it sounds better without it.

MD

[M Fowler]

Too brite for me engaged even with the change in tone caps I did.

Mark

[geetarpicker]

My Express is almost as dark as the bass channel of a 4 input Marshall without the bright switch engaged. But you already knew my answer

[robkeeler]

What speakers and what volume do you run your amps at? Use some h30s or greenbacks and turn the amp up.......you'll love the bright switch then.

[leleduke]

I like the brite switch for some types of music but I tend to use the lower brite setting the most of the time. The off setting is a little too dark with the old 4x12.

[M Fowler]

Glen,

I can't wait to finish up my new project an Express with Allyn's Pacific tranny set to see the difference between my build and what Nik at Ceriatone did with my current Express.

I hope it is dark like your Original. But I might have to wait a bit to get some NOS tubes.

Mark

[leleduke]

I forgot about the extra long guitar cable trick. Thanks Glen for the heads up .

MD

[Phil_S]

Funny how this topic turned up. I haven't been to the TW forum for a while, but came to ask a similar question.

My 'wreck deviant has three settings: bright, brighter, and more brigher.

I've been through a pile of pre-amp tubes and, while some are brighter than others, they are all quite bright, so it is the amp. Same deal with speakers. I suppose voicing is a matter of personal taste and the fact that I don't play out. The latter, not playing out, means the sound dynamics are for a relatively small room.

What would you do to make it less bright or even a bit dark with the bright caps not engaged?

[Structo]

Do you have a 500pf treble cap?

Might try a 250pf.

[leleduke]

My express is not brite. It was the harsh pick attack that I didn't like in the upper brite position before I started useing longer cords.

MD

[geetarpicker]

You might also try the two Sozo 100uf electrolytics in series for the 1st filters. On my amp changing to those darkened it up almost as much as two 18' cords in series. The Sozos also seem to dampen the attack a little, as it's now little more organic and not so quick in a good way along with being mellower overall. I've actually found that after swapping in the Sozos I'm now running my presence higher.

[_gushtone_]

I just got a beautiful Francesca clone (exact to original spec from what I understand, Toneslut trannies, Mallory caps, somee period correct stuff, etc) and I was wondering about this. My first experience with it was playing a '54 RI Strat, whose pickups are on teh bright side, but not obnoxious) and running through a well work Bogner 2x12 with one G12H30 and one Greenback. It was unbelievably bright. With the Bright switcvh off I could not run geh treble past 3 or the presence. With it on it was crazy bright. So my question is, is that the nature of teh beast? I am a wreck clone neophyte.
Oh, and btw, the overall flavor of the amp was still waaay righteous, but my first thought was that I had to start making some tone changes.
I'd love to hear who has a "stock" Express clone that is not bright, and what is in it. Or, what are the masterful tone tweaks to make that don't steal that Wreck harmonic content/grind quality.

Also looking for a good "tube amps for dummies" type primer so I can learn how to work on it myself without getting killed (you know, how to discharge caps, which ones carry all the current when unplugged, circuit basics, etc). It would be great to find a one stop shopping type deal.

Any input would be welcome.
Peace...

[leleduke]

I just got a beautiful Francesca clone (exact to original spec from what I understand, Toneslut trannies, Mallory caps, somee period correct stuff, etc) and I was wondering about this. My first experience with it was playing a '54 RI Strat, whose pickups are on teh bright side, but not obnoxious) and running through a well work Bogner 2x12 with one G12H30 and one Greenback. It was unbelievably bright. With the Bright switcvh off I could not run geh treble past 3 or the presence. With it on it was crazy bright. So my question is, is that the nature of teh beast? I am a wreck clone neophyte.
Oh, and btw, the overall flavor of the amp was still waaay righteous, but my first thought was that I had to start making some tone changes.
I'd love to hear who has a "stock" Express clone that is not bright, and what is in it. Or, what are the masterful tone tweaks to make that don't steal that Wreck harmonic content/grind quality.

Also looking for a good "tube amps for dummies" type primer so I can learn how to work on it myself without getting killed (you know, how to discharge caps, which ones carry all the current when unplugged, circuit basics, etc). It would be great to find a one stop shopping type deal.

Any input would be welcome.
Peace...

Have you tried moving the tone control to the bridge pickup. Strats are bright guitars asd the 54 w/ ash body will rip your head off.

MD

[Rob S]

One for all of you, but I would also be interested in Glen's thoughts on this.
I have a beautiful Express Clone courtesy of Ron Worley a.k.a. "The Major".
I am now running it through a wonderful 1971 "Ormat" 2X12 Cab loaded with the much sought Pre Rola Greenbacks. (Sorry, for those that are not familiar with Ormat, this is from the era when all Orange Gear was made by Matamp, hence OrMat.)

I usually seem to be playing my Rosewood Boarded Strat these days. It is a junker, but has USA Standard Pups. I am finding that with the Volume at approx 11 o'clock, all tones at 12 o'clock except the Presence which I run at about 9 o'clock..... I am only using the Bright Switch on the Lower Setting.

My tastes are very much steeped in Early Wishbone Ash, through to Rory Gallagher. But with the Strat I find that I am getting the results that I want very easily at these settings...... OK for the Rory stuff I might nudge the Mids to about 2 o'clock just to beef that range some more, but that rather depends on the mood more than anything else...... So..... My question is this.
The Longer Lead that I have heard mentioned? What are the benefits and what was the thinking that lead to this discovery?
I am currently using George L cables for everything if that helps at all.
NO Pedals and everything driven from the Guitar's Volume and Tone Controls.
With the Bright Switch fully engaged, I really can't handle being too near the Cab as things get pretty intense. Unfortunately, I have little choice in this matter as we live in a very old, but TINY Cottage, hence equally small rooms.
Would using a considerably longer lead help bleed out some of the higher end? I love the attack that I get with the Bright Switch fully engaged, but the poor old ears cannot endure it for long.

Sorry for rambling, but I really would like to find some form of Happy Medium so that I can retain this beautiful attack.

All The Best
Rob

[geetarpicker]

I find george L works well in pedal boards with other amps but sounds bright and harsh as a main input lead on a wreck. I find the 500pf bright works well on the wreck for the uppers mids though the extreme highs get too hot. That said if you run say two 18' Mogami cables with 2524 wire that tames it nicely. I learned the long cord trick on large stages with stacked 4x12s where you simply needed the cord length. Only later in the studio was it apparent that a short low capacitance cable sounded way too harsh. I've tried a short cable plus a small cap to simulate the loading but for some reason the longer cord sounds better. I like the way the 500pf bright adds to the jangle factor of the cleans and it helps the dirtier tones to have more of a superlead type crunch. I think the bright switch makes the amp seem to have clearer cleans and a wider range of "clean to scream". FYI all my youtube videos and cd have the long chord trick plus the full bright engaged.