Almost done!

[keithrick]

Hi guys, I am getting fired up now that all the parts are in. Here is a pic of my board on my hand made chassis. Let me know if you see anything out of wack!

Cheers

[Normster]

Looks good from here. I can't see where your OD input trimmer tail is connected, but everything else looks like a Glaswerks special.

[sgp]

Hi Keith,
I certainly won't argue with the Normster, But, It appears to me that a lot of your tube connections (the plate resistors and PI input resistors) are on the opposite side of the pcb, the side furthest from the tubes. those are tube holes on the top right? Please correct me if I'm looking at it wrong? I may just need more coffee this early in the morning.
sgp

[Tdale]

I suppose the board is just placed on the chassis for photo purpouses...it should probably be turned around when it's mounted.

I have a question. When do you solder the wires to the board? It looks like all the components have been soldered in place, but there are no wires in place yet.. How do you solder them in place?

I'm working on my first turret board build, and connect the wires as I go along...rolling them up so they won't be in the way..

Tommy

[keithrick]

Hey guy's thanks for the comments! I am starting to work on the chassis again today! I have tried to answer some questions....

I suppose the board is just placed on the chassis for photo purpouses...it should probably be turned around when it's mounted.

Yeah I just layed it on the chassis for the picture. The chassis is upside down.

I have a question. When do you solder the wires to the board? It looks like all the components have been soldered in place, but there are no wires in place yet.. How do you solder them in place?

I usually wrap the leads around the turret or solder them underneath the board. I can't fit more then two leads into these turrets.

I can't see where your OD input trimmer tail is connected

The tail is connected to the ground side of the 2.2k metal film resister.

I already mounted the power transformer I will shoot a pic tonight to show how far I got today.

BTW- I have some values of RN65 resisters left, am I missing any locations that would help improve tone? Just curious

[sgp]

My bad, I can now see the bottom edge bends away.
I think the "Glaswerks special: compliment is cool, Gary sets the bar pretty darn High.

[Normster]

I have some values of RN65 resisters left, am I missing any locations that would help improve tone? Just curious

As far as I know, Dumble only used metal films on the plate resistors. Everything else was either carbon film or carbon comp. Most clones I've seen use carbon films for everything but the plates. It may be worth experimenting with but I think Dogears said it makes the amp sound sterile if you go overboard with the metal films. Same with ceramic versus mica caps. I guess a little dirt is needed to warm up the circuit.

[glasman]

I have some values of RN65 resisters left, am I missing any locations that would help improve tone? Just curious

As far as I know, Dumble only used metal films on the plate resistors. Everything else was either carbon film or carbon comp. Most clones I've seen use carbon films for everything but the plates. It may be worth experimenting with but I think Dogears said it makes the amp sound sterile if you go overboard with the metal films. Same with ceramic versus mica caps. I guess a little dirt is needed to warm up the circuit.

Hi Norm, I have seen quite a few metal films on Dumble pics This is especally true of the late model amps. Many more MF's than CC's or CF's Probably the most important are the plate resistors. 1/2 Watt XICON's don't cut it on the plates. The RN65's are (at least to me) are ideal in the plates. For a little softer top end 1W carbon films do the trick nicely in the plates and don't add in too much noise.

The difference between the ceramics and SM is amazing. I used to be the SM king. No more. They add a "hammer hitting a nail" leading edge that will drive you nuts in overdrive more. The same thing goes for various types poly caps. They all have their own signature, some work well and some don't work at all.

A great example is the Mallory 150's. They are perfect for a Wreck style circuit and sound like a$$ in Dr. D's amps. I hear that the IC poly props are pretty good, but to date I have never used any outside of a telecaster I was updating parts in a while back.

Gary

[keithrick]

Here are some more pics of my build in the mock up stage. I have a few questions though......

1. Reverb tranny placement any suggestions? is it oK where I have it placed?

2. I bought the radio shack transformer and the 4 pin switchcraft xlr for switching. With three relays I am assuming I can switch three options, is this correct? Also are there any diagrams of the relay boards floating around out there?

I think I might have bitten off more then I can chew with the relays

Anyway comments and critiques are always welcome!

[Normster]

Looking good, Keith. The only problem I see is that it's going to be a real PITA to wire your pots with that 1" lip on the front of your chassis. You might want to wire the pots as much as posible outside the chassis first.

The reverb tranny can probaly go just about anywhere with that much room. I typically see them mounted at a 45 degree angle so that's what I did. Not sure if it makes a difference.

[keithrick]

Here is an updated picture of my chassis. I painted it Black with a Hammerite finish. I will use decals for the controls labels. I hope to finish it this weekend.

Notes:

1. I grounded the reverb to the closet power tube.
2. The reverb is connected to B+2, it is the red-purple-white wire.
3. Input, OD level and OD Drive use shielded cable.
4. Volume V1-7 is unshielded (starts off with puple shrink wrap and goes underneath the Red, white and blue (mid,bass,treble) leads.
5. V2-7 is 220K with a 470pf cap. I just purchased some 500PF to replace if needed.

Any layout issues that come to anyones attention.