Which Soldering Iron to buy?

[selloutrr]

I'm in the market for a new hi power soldering gun for soldering chassis grounds. I blew my Weller up and to be honest I found it to be marginal at best. lately I've been using a weller WD1000 at 700 degrees along with a Rework station blowing focused hot air around 500 degrees to melt solder to the chassis. It works very quick and smooth except it takes two people, which is not always an option. I'd like your input on which Soldering gun other builders / repair techs like to work with.

Thank you!

[Structo]

I bought this one about a year ago and it's the best I have ever used.
It heats up fast, recovers fast and the iron stand and the tip cleaner is the best I have used as well. $50

Make sure to buy extra tips if need them at the same time to save on shipping.

http://www.howardelectronics.com/xytronic/379.html

If you want one with a digital readout this one is nice as well.
I don't miss the readout since you know where to set the temperature after a bit of use. $100

http://www.howardelectronics.com/xytronic/169D.html

[Wayne]

'fraid I'm no help - I'm a neanderthal. My weapon of choice for this and other high-thermal-mass soldering jobs is the chisel tip that comes with most garden variety propane torch kits. As long as you keep it clean, you can heat up an awful lot in no time at all. If you're working in a tight space (amp chassis), you can turn off the gas just before you make your approach - the tip has enough mass to git-er-done.

W

[Jana]

for soldering onto a chassis or that brass plate I use an old weller soldering gun, it looks like a pistol. Not sure what the wattage is, I know it really cooks though.

something like this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 921x00003a

[selloutrr]

The weller pistol grip was what I burned up it never really seemed to heat the chassis enough to flow solder smooth. I would get 1 out of 5 good solder points, most would just go cold and break off. It was 1000 degree, and really felt like if it could just give 1200 it would be perfect. Those Vintage fender Chassis are stuborn.

Structo: I'm not sure how your getting a pool of solder to bond to the chassis with that iron. It's only rated for a max 850 degrees and the general rule is 1000 degree min. but if it works go with it! Do you work mostly on Aluminum chassis?

[Structo]

Sorry, I sort of skimmed your post.
I wasn't aware you were trying to solder to the chassis itself.

I have an old solder gun like you are talking about.

I think I bought it at Montgomery Wards years ago.
One thing you have to watch about those is not to use them around pickups. They can actually degauss a pickup because of the inductance in them.
In fact we used to degauss TV CRTs with them.

But that is about the only thing I know of that develops that kind of heat other than the very pricey ones for industry.

My dad had an old soldering iron that was electric. It is huge and has a big chisel tip. I think it was more for soldering sheetmetal like gutters and stuff than electronics. I still have it. I wonder if it still works.....?

[billyz]

For chassis grounds I use a Weller 80 watt iron with a big chisel tip. does a perfect job every time.

It is the one they use for Stained Glass. You can get them for under $30.

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-80-Watt-So ... B00018AR3Q

I have used this one for years.