GainMaster wrote:The schematic shows 5K6. Personally, I like it higher than that as I put a NFB pot on mine. Anything from 5K6 to 25k works fine.
Brian
Ok thanks for clarifying that! So that is actually meant to be 5k6. Sorry, didn't know if that was a typo or the legit value!
One other question: You mentioned before that you felt that the 6SN7 did a better job of "big amp feel". Do you feel that if you were using the 2W at full throttle, it could keep up with a drummer in a small room and in a practice environment (not live). I'm wondering about the viability of the Wreckless as a good tool for this...I would be using a 2x12 with Greenbacks. For comparison, I'm using a 6V6 Plexi dimed but with a VVR at about 40% power. This seems to be the sweet spot for tone and volume with that amp and is enough to keep up with a drummer at a comfortable level. Just trying to get a feel for what 2w cranked feels like
Depends on your speakers really. Celeston Blues can get pretty loud with just two watts. The 6sn7 puts out two watts clean and 3 watts distorted. Might be great for practice with an unmiked drummer. I put a Herzog line out on mine so it could be run into a bigger amp. What I found was you have to have a speaker hooked to the amp to get the dynamics and blooming. So I bought a 8" speaker.
Colossal: thx
But I think you're looking at the powertube grid resistors (R14/15). They are both 82k. The 82k/100k's are lower, in between them.
Gainmaster:
Actually, the PT isn't all that big. It's only marginally larger than the PT you mention. I've made a pic here, placing it beside one, on my october studio.
BUT, it's quite a lot cheaper. the 369EX costs about 69€. The toroidal costs about 30€.... (bought it at Tube-town.net)
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arjepsen wrote:Colossal: thx
But I think you're looking at the powertube grid resistors (R14/15). They are both 82k. The 82k/100k's are lower, in between them.
arjepsen wrote:Colossal: thx
But I think you're looking at the powertube grid resistors (R14/15). They are both 82k. The 82k/100k's are lower, in between them.
Gainmaster:
Actually, the PT isn't all that big. It's only marginally larger than the PT you mention. I've made a pic here, placing it beside one, on my october studio.
BUT, it's quite a lot cheaper. the 369EX costs about 69€. The toroidal costs about 30€.... (bought it at Tube-town.net)
I see. Cool. We both have October Studios too. Great minds think alike LOL.
heh maybe they do.
I actually took the october by a professional sound-technician/guitarist. He was quite impressed by how tonally diverse it was.
Oh, btw, one question about the tonestack wiring.
In pretty much all layout, I see two wires going to the bass pot.
However, these pins on the bass pot, are also connected to the treble and mid pot.
What is the reason for not shortening the wires, and run them to the treb and mid instead???
arjepsen wrote:heh maybe they do.
I actually took the october by a professional sound-technician/guitarist. He was quite impressed by how tonally diverse it was.
Oh, btw, one question about the tonestack wiring.
In pretty much all layout, I see two wires going to the bass pot.
However, these pins on the bass pot, are also connected to the treble and mid pot.
What is the reason for not shortening the wires, and run them to the treb and mid instead???
No reason. Go ahead and shorten the wires. Works either way.
mss1 wrote:Brian, can you confirm if you implemented the Firezog line-out something like this?
Mss1
Yes. I believe that is it exactly. I used a 10watt 10R resistor. The Studio puts out 3 watts distorted so it needs to be bigger than the 5 watts indicated on the firezog schematic.
I hope these will be helpfull to those who plan to build the amp the way Brians picture saved me from frustration i normally have with stuff like these.
When i saw Brians pic, two capacitors + were connected to ground, I said WTF!@$(*^, then i reviewed the schematics and he had it right. If not for the pic it would have taken me a while to figure it out because i normally connect negative to ground. Thanks Brian and Cliff.
The amp is dead quiet even when everything maxed out without a guitar pluged-in, it is as silent as it is off. With my guitar plugged, hum becomes proportional with the amount of vol/gain control about an eighth of guitar's loudness always. I suspect its my cord and guitar causing it? Brian, is your wreckless the same way?
TIP: print out Brians wreckless photo it will be very handy.
Im in Modesto, CA so if anyone wants help or just compare builds pm me.
I hope these will be helpfull to those who plan to build the amp the way Brians picture saved me from frustration i normally have with stuff like these.
When i saw Brians pic, two capacitors + were connected to ground, I said WTF!@$(*^, then i reviewed the schematics and he had it right. If not for the pic it would have taken me a while to figure it out because i normally connect negative to ground. Thanks Brian and Cliff.
The amp is dead quiet even when everything maxed out without a guitar pluged-in, it is as silent as it is off. With my guitar plugged, hum becomes proportional with the amount of vol/gain control about an eighth of guitar's loudness always. I suspect its my cord and guitar causing it? Brian, is your wreckless the same way?
TIP: print out Brians wreckless photo it will be very handy.
Im in Modesto, CA so if anyone wants help or just compare builds pm me.
Very nice build indeed. Looks even better than mine. OK, where did you get the faceplate and lables? Hum with a guitar plugged in at all.
I made the faceplate with 3x18" wood from Michael's and they got any thickness from 1/4" to 1/16". The labels are made with a regular label maker using semi-transparent film.
I'm still messing with biasing. I have it now at 9.4mV per triode which gives me 3.2W dissipation X 2 triodes is 6.4W. Isn't it high for the rated max dissipation of this tube? Is my math right?
I always hated math thats why in college i changed my major from electronics engineering to Fine Arts (no math at all!). But i still love electronics and the occasional smell of fuming molten lead. JK LOL
JoeyE wrote:I made the faceplate with 3x18" wood from Michael's and they got any thickness from 1/4" to 1/16". The labels are made with a regular label maker using semi-transparent film.
I'm still messing with biasing. I have it now at 9.4mV per triode which gives me 3.2W dissipation X 2 triodes is 6.4W. Isn't it high for the rated max dissipation of this tube? Is my math right?
I always hated math thats why in college i changed my major from electronics engineering to Fine Arts (no math at all!). But i still love electronics and the occasional smell of fuming molten lead. JK LOL
9.4 should be spot on. Mine is biased there. The hum you mentioned is likely coming from your guitar. Either a bad ground to the bridge and strings or just the natural hum of your pickups. I built a custom strat for this amp with two HBs and a single coil in the middle. All positions are humbucking. If you consider a pickup swap, the Bigmouth from Guitar Fetish is the BOM. I can't say enough good things about this pickup. Not a modern pickup, but classic PAF output and coil splits very well. Catches that strat quack in single coil mode better than most single coils.
mss1 wrote:Brian, can you confirm if you implemented the Firezog line-out something like this?
Mss1
Hi Mss1.
Are you sure J3 is hooked up right?:? What's the purpose of R13 on your drawing?
Just wandering.
-Dave
J3 is for an additional extension cab and is optional (I didn't use it). R13 is the original safety resistor in the event the ouput has no load. I would leave it in as it does not affect the tone and in the event you have a bad patch cord or something you still have a 220R load on the output transformer. Just a precaution really.
