Trouble with Fender Champ 5F1 clone.

[Travis]

The light socket was wired in series instead of parallel in the 1st pic. Has that been rewired? The layout you are using does not show some of the wires. One is the grounding of the volume terminal I mentioned. Another is grounding the "other" terminal on the bulb. If using original type layout, the 2 wires on the bulb should each be on the same terminal of the socket. Your latest voltages imply you fixed the heaters. Check on the alternate heater wiring strategies out there and go "original" or artificial CT type. I don't see a CT on the your heater winding, which is an original characteristic. You need the artificial CT to eliminate hum if you have gone that route.

I changed the wiring to parallel on the light socket, grounded the volume. Right now I'm trying to figure out why Im getting 460 v on the speaker term.

[Travis]

Do the orange drops have polarity or can i put them in either way?

[Travis]

have new voltages for this amp with out the tubes in. kept the recto in.

6v6 tube:
pin 1= 0
pin2=6.6vac
pin3=476vdc
pin4=476vdc
pin5=.06 vdc
pin7=.12vac
pin8=6.6 vdc

12ax7 tube:
pin1=470vdc
pin2=0
pin3=0vdc
pin4=6.6vac
pin5=6.6vac
pin6=472vdc
pin7=.0vdc
pin8=.1 vdc
pin9=6.6vac

[Travis]

I color coded the wires now and have a pic. I'm beside myself on this now after looking over the wiring I cant find the problem.

[Travis]

I color coded the wires now and have a pic. I'm beside myself on this now after looking over the wiring I cant find the problem.

[Cygnus X1]

I have to hit the rack, I'll look again in the morning.
Take it easy, Travis, and don't do anything I wouldn't do!


Wait...don't do that, either....

[Phil_S]

No need to get beside yourself. The first build can be very challenging. It is good that you chose something relatively simple. I urge you to find patience.

I keep looking at the 12AX7 socket. I don't see anything where pin 4 should be. Is that because of the picture? Are you sure there are 9 pins on that socket?

I continue to be bothered by your filament voltage. Would you please lift from the chassis and the pilot light, all of the green wires. Pull the rectifier. Measure the voltages on those three wires. I am wondering if you have 12.6vac across the outer legs of the winding and 6.3vac either outer leg to center tap. If that's the case, things need to be done differently.

Next, what VAC do you read across the two red wires (just probe the rectifier socket, that's why I asked you to pull the tube).

[Travis]

have new voltages for this amp with the tubes in. kept the recto in.

6v6 tube:
pin 1= 0
pin2=6.6vac
pin3=481vdc
pin4=467vdc
pin5=395 vdc
pin7=6.7 vac
pin8=464 vdc

12ax7 tube:
pin1=282vdc
pin2=0
pin3=2.2vdc
pin4=6.7vac
pin5=6.7vac
pin6=428vdc
pin7=.0vdc
pin8=466 vdc
pin9=6.7vac

[Travis]

No need to get beside yourself. The first build can be very challenging. It is good that you chose something relatively simple. I urge you to find patience.

I keep looking at the 12AX7 socket. I don't see anything where pin 4 should be. Is that because of the picture? Are you sure there are 9 pins on that socket?

I continue to be bothered by your filament voltage. Would you please lift from the chassis and the pilot light, all of the green wires. Pull the rectifier. Measure the voltages on those three wires. I am wondering if you have 12.6vac across the outer legs of the winding and 6.3vac either outer leg to center tap. If that's the case, things need to be done differently.

Next, what VAC do you read across the two red wires (just probe the rectifier socket, that's why I asked you to pull the tube).

The 12ax7 has 9 pins. Pin 4 is with pin 5 on the 12ax7 which legs off to pin 7 on the 6v6. Are you saying to disconnect the pilot wires and pull the recto out?

[Travis]

pulled the recto and both pt green wires:

Red wires read 5.45 vac
Yellow wires: 715 vac
green: 6.6 vac

[joebob]

On your 6v6 pins 3 & 4 seem to be shorted, power off and unplug and then spread the pins further apart. On your OT you have 4 wires coming out of the chassis; the red goes to B+ that is normal; the blue goes to pin 3 that looks normal (except it appears shorted to pin 4). The other 2 wires; yellow and brown/blue don't look right. One should go to the speaker jack lets say the yellow one, then the other one, brown/blue should be grounded, you have them shorted going to the same tie point. Take the brown/blue go to ground with it; then take a wire from the yellow wire and 22k tie point to the speaker.

Dave

[Cygnus X1]

You're measuring the B+ on the speaker terminal.
The orange drops are not polarity sensitive, many people put the line towards the negative side anyways.

I guess you posted those voltages in reverse, should be +5V on the yellow rectifier wires, and HT on the reds.

You don't need to desolder the recto to measure, just pull the tube.

Is there something I don't understand going on around the primary side of the OT? Double check that area.

Don't get frustrated, this is all good...just stay safe.

[Travis]

On your 6v6 pins 3 & 4 seem to be shorted, power off and unplug and then spread the pins further apart. On your OT you have 4 wires coming out of the chassis; the red goes to B+ that is normal; the blue goes to pin 3 that looks normal (except it appears shorted to pin 4). The other 2 wires; yellow and brown/blue don't look right. One should go to the speaker jack lets say the yellow one, then the other one, brown/blue should be grounded, you have them shorted going to the same tie point. Take the brown/blue go to ground with it; then take a wire from the yellow wire and 22k tie point to the speaker.

Dave

I saw the short on pin 3 and 4, fixed it. Now I'm looking at the other OT wires. The black wire is going to the speaker Ground, the red to B+, the blue to pin3 and yellow is tied to the 22k resistor and legged off to the speaker. What are you talking about with the brown/blue that needs to be taken off and grounded? I think your talking about the wire that's tied to the 22k and goes to the speaker.

[Phil_S]

On your 6v6 pins 3 & 4 seem to be shorted, power off and unplug and then spread the pins further apart. On your OT you have 4 wires coming out of the chassis; the red goes to B+ that is normal; the blue goes to pin 3 that looks normal (except it appears shorted to pin 4). The other 2 wires; yellow and brown/blue don't look right. One should go to the speaker jack lets say the yellow one, then the other one, brown/blue should be grounded, you have them shorted going to the same tie point. Take the brown/blue go to ground with it; then take a wire from the yellow wire and 22k tie point to the speaker.
Dave

I saw the short on pin 3 and 4, fixed it. Now I'm looking at the other OT wires. The black wire is going to the speaker Ground, the red to B+, the blue to pin3 and yellow is tied to the 22k resistor and legged off to the speaker. What are you talking about with the brown/blue that needs to be taken off and grounded? I think your talking about the wire that's tied to the 22k and goes to the speaker.

I think you are close to solving the problem. Look at the OT wires.
The red and blue look like they are done right.
It looks to me that the yellow and the 4th wire (brown/blue?) are soldered together on the terminal strip between the 12AX7 and the 6V6. That's not right. This is what Dave is talking about. Maybe I can say it a little different from Dave....

One wire goes to the negative feedback loop (the 22K resistor), and to the tip of the speaker jack. I think you've already picked the yellow for this. (I can't see your speaker jack, or maybe you just wired it directly and that's OK.) Your take-off point for the speaker is at that terminal strip where the yellow wire meets the 22K resistor.

Clip or desolder the brown/blue. This goes to the sleeve of the speaker jack or the other terminal of the speaker if you are not using a jack. It also needs to be grounded. To reduce the possibility of noise, route the brown/blue around the other side of the 6V6 socket. You may want to lift the filament supply off the chassis floor to keep it away from that speaker wire.

Once you do this, you should be getting sound from your speaker, provided nothing else is wrong (didn't see anything) and nothing was damaged (I don't think this happened).

Expect voltages to change. Give us new readings on the 6V6 and the 12AX7. You can skip the filament readings.

For a first effort, you have done well. Stick with it and we will get your problem solved. You might get lucky here, but, judging from the picture, I'm expecting hum or noise. This is not hard to fix. I mention this to help set expectations.

[labb]

Phil, I took a look at his OT (PTF 22905) over on AES and it shows Red and Blue on the primary and Black and Yellow on the secondary with Black being the ground.