4-4-0 [2 NEW BUILDS WITH PICS; THE 2 WATT WRECK]

[mss1]

Thanks, it would not be a problem to leave a speaker plugged in, when we need higher volumes anyway.

Of course this begs more questions:

- Does the second amp capture the amp's full range and sound quality, from the Firezog output?

- What do you think is reactive load part, the whole speaker or particularly the voice coil? Could be possible to use some other kind of coil on the output without a speaker and then be able to record from the Firezog without any live sound, for late night recording?

- Do you think a particularly low SPF 3" speaker would suffice for the load? (that would surely be pretty quiet...)


MSS

[GainMaster]

Thanks, it would not be a problem to leave a speaker plugged in, when we need higher volumes anyway.

Of course this begs more questions:

- Does the second amp capture the amp's full range and sound quality, from the Firezog output?

Haven't tried it with a speaker on the output of my Wreck yet. It did seem to add a complexity that wasn't there before that I rather liked.

- What do you think is reactive load part, the whole speaker or particularly the voice coil? Could be possible to use some other kind of coil on the output without a speaker and then be able to record from the Firezog without any live sound, for late night recording?

When I use my Webber Mass which has an inductive coil and a speaker motor it will still bloom if the mass is not turned down too low, so it is definitly better with a whole speaker.

- - Do you think a particularly low SPF 3" speaker would suffice for the load? (that would surely be pretty quiet...) MSS

That I don't know as I haven't tried it but that would be a good solution if it works.

Brian

[mss1]

I was thinking you could even put the 3" speaker under a pillow for an iso-box type muffling....

[arjepsen]

I'm working on making a "wreckless", but there's a few things that force me to change the layout a bit.

1st, I'm using parts I have available, which means cramping it into a 30x20x5cm chassis, with a toroidal PT and a 125D OT.

2nd, I would like to make the main turret board as close to the original wreck layout as I can. The reason for this, is that I want to make a full blown express clone later on, and just simply reuse this turretboard, instead of having to make a new one.

I've tried putting a layout together, and I would like to hear your thoughts on it's workability. I've only laid out the PSU-PA since the preamp will follow the normal layout.
The main thing I'm wondering about, (though you may see other problems that I haven't seen) is the placement of the OT. Is it too close to heater wires, or the 220V lines (I'm in Europe)? Would it be better to put it closer to the out-jacks (below/between the powertube and PI), or is it bad to put the OT too close to those tubes?

hope you don't mind all the questions, but it's the best way for me to increase my knowledge about these things

heres a pdf with the layout so far.

[GainMaster]

I'm working on making a "wreckless", but there's a few things that force me to change the layout a bit.

1st, I'm using parts I have available, which means cramping it into a 30x20x5cm chassis, with a toroidal PT and a 125D OT.

2nd, I would like to make the main turret board as close to the original wreck layout as I can. The reason for this, is that I want to make a full blown express clone later on, and just simply reuse this turretboard, instead of having to make a new one.

I've tried putting a layout together, and I would like to hear your thoughts on it's workability. I've only laid out the PSU-PA since the preamp will follow the normal layout.
The main thing I'm wondering about, (though you may see other problems that I haven't seen) is the placement of the OT. Is it too close to heater wires, or the 220V lines (I'm in Europe)? Would it be better to put it closer to the out-jacks (below/between the powertube and PI), or is it bad to put the OT too close to those tubes?

hope you don't mind all the questions, but it's the best way for me to increase my knowledge about these things

heres a pdf with the layout so far.

Cool layout drawing so far. Glad to see someone else jumping in on this project. One change from the origianal schematic is Cliff and I are using a .68u cap for the presence instead of the .1u as originally drawn. It enhanses blooming. Also, for a little more bottom end, consider adding a .001u ceramic cap with the .0022u cap to the third stage (you drew it as .022u). You shouldn't have any problems putting your OT there as long as the OT and PT magnets are 90 degrees off from each other and not going in the same direction. I'll take a closer look when you get more drawn.

Brian

[arjepsen]

Thanks a lot.
I'll update it, and get more drawn in over the weekend.
One question that I would like a clearer answer to though, is the OT placement.
I would like to move it left in the drawing, as described, since it would
shorten the leads to the powertube a bit, and also shorten the wires to the speaker jacks/imp. switch, but:
Does it affect the powertube and PI if it gets too close?
How about the heater wires, would they cause problems, when being so close the the OT?

[GainMaster]

Thanks a lot.
I'll update it, and get more drawn in over the weekend.
One question that I would like a clearer answer to though, is the OT placement.
I would like to move it left in the drawing, as described, since it would
shorten the leads to the powertube a bit, and also shorten the wires to the speaker jacks/imp. switch, but:
Does it affect the powertube and PI if it gets too close?
How about the heater wires, would they cause problems, when being so close the the OT?

It could affect the PI. about 2" should be good though. Shouldn't affect the power tube as I have placed them as close as 1" from the tube without problems. As for the heater wires, just make sure any OT wires are not run parallel to them and you should be OK. You are more likely to pick up hum by running the heater wires too close to the 220v wires.

Brian

[arjepsen]

Ok, I got around to draw the rest in.
Not everything is drawn in a 100% correct (few missing wires in out jacks wiring), but the idea should be pretty clear.

I've made to versions, with the two different OT placements.
In the first, the OT secondaries are a bit parallel to the heater wires.
In the second, the OT is a bit closer than 2" to the PI....
Don't know which is the best, so I need an advice there...

The heater wires are going parallel to the 220V lines at the right edge of the chassis, but I plan on running the 220V lines at the bottom (open end) of the chassis, and the heaters on the top, so they'll be about 5cm apart (about 2 inches I think). Is this enough distance between them?

Lemme know what you think, and if you see anything that'll cause problems.

[Wayne]

I was thinking you could even put the 3" speaker under a pillow for an iso-box type muffling....

How about mounting it near/on your guitar, for great feedback independant of the overall volume?

Just a thought...

W

[mss1]

I was thinking you could even put the 3" speaker under a pillow for an iso-box type muffling....

How about mounting it near/on your guitar, for great feedback independant of the overall volume?

Just a thought...

W

I like that thinking... It could even be smaller like a 1.5" speaker mounted on the guitar. It would probably feedback like crazy, but you could just stop the cone from vibrating with your finger. Kinda like that string auto-vibrator thing, once you get the feel of it...

Too bad I don't have a spare crap guitar to mount a speaker on just now.

Hmmm, I think better get back to reality and planning my build...

Mss1

[RJ Guitars]

Hey Guys,

I've had a bunch of these same thoughts... even posted this web link before but it never really took off here at the AGF... With your discussion I'm again tempted to try it.

http://www.marksmart.net/gearhack/feedb ... ckgen.html

rj

[doctord02]

Didnt Fernandes guitars market something like this called the Sustainiac or Sustainior? They had a line of guitars with a transducer built in to the guitar itself...

[GainMaster]

Hey Guys,

I've had a bunch of these same thoughts... even posted this web link before but it never really took off here at the AGF... With your discussion I'm again tempted to try it.

http://www.marksmart.net/gearhack/feedb ... ckgen.html

rj

I put a set of GFS Bigmouths in my strat and man does it bloom now I highly recomend the Bigmouths as they have strat quack on clean settings even in the HB mode and sound great with the gain cranked. They sound even more straty coil split. They really make my mini wreck sing.

Brian

[GainMaster]

Ok, I got around to draw the rest in.
Not everything is drawn in a 100% correct (few missing wires in out jacks wiring), but the idea should be pretty clear.

I've made to versions, with the two different OT placements.
In the first, the OT secondaries are a bit parallel to the heater wires.
In the second, the OT is a bit closer than 2" to the PI....
Don't know which is the best, so I need an advice there...

The heater wires are going parallel to the 220V lines at the right edge of the chassis, but I plan on running the 220V lines at the bottom (open end) of the chassis, and the heaters on the top, so they'll be about 5cm apart (about 2 inches I think). Is this enough distance between them?

Lemme know what you think, and if you see anything that'll cause problems.

Great. I'll print them in color and take a good look tonight.

Brian

[Lonely Raven]

If the layouts check out as accurate, I'm looking forward to building one of these up over this winter!