I found the Firezog output killed off quite a bit of the dynamics and range with my Firefly.
I will be interesting to hear how you make out runing the Wreckless firezog output into your Wreck.
With the FF firezog into my Wreck (other than on really low gain) it was outrageously out of control (Waa-hoo!) and somewhat noisy as would be expected considering the sensitivity of the Wreck input...
We will have to wait and see. I'll be running mine into a dedicated power section with not much of a preamp. One or two 12au7 stages to recover the signal and thats it. Don't think anyone has tried that before. My initial test of running it into my Lead I sounded really nice with the gains down on the Lead amp. Couldn't imagine running the Firezog into a real Wreck That must have been interesting.
The schematic is finally posted. Here is a link. http://www.ax84.com/4-4-0.html No layout etc. with this one but I'll be glad to post more pics of mine if needed.
I wonder how this kind of amp would sound, made with a 12AU7 as a powertube, instead of the 6sn7. (like the poweramp on the "lunchbox" found here: http://amps.zugster.net/projects/lunchbox)
I've seen some schematics around here, with different versions of a 12AU7 poweramp, but none with a PP poweramp like in the lunchbox.
Anyone got an idea what difference it would make in the sound?
arjepsen wrote:I wonder how this kind of amp would sound, made with a 12AU7 as a powertube, instead of the 6sn7. (like the poweramp on the "lunchbox" found here: http://amps.zugster.net/projects/lunchbox)
I've seen some schematics around here, with different versions of a 12AU7 poweramp, but none with a PP poweramp like in the lunchbox.
Anyone got an idea what difference it would make in the sound?
Cliff did a lot of experimenting with the 12au7 and 6n1p and found they just didn't sound like a full sized amp at lower volumes. The 6sn7 does a great job of this and is a lot like the el84 and 34 in that it breaks up early but doesn't get too far out of control if pushed hard.
Here is a pic of me bending the veneer. The veneer bends very well against the grain but would break if I bent it like this with the grain. To further enhanse bending and make the print stick better, I sanded one side with 150 grit then 380 grit sand paper.
First I printed the logo on the paper so I know where it will print. That way you can properly position the venneer. The veneer is taped to the paper. I used scotch tape. I don't recomend this as it sticks too well to the veneer. I had hell geting it off. Use painter's tape. Just don't put it where the print will be.
Here is a pic of the veneer ready to be printed. You will notice that the paper is feeding sideways. You need to find a printer that will do this as it enables you to print up to 11" lables. That way you only need 1 joint to span a 16" or larger chassis.
Here is a pic of the veneer after it has heen run through the printer. The logo and lables came out very clear due to the sanding. I coated it with spray Minwax before handling it too much.
Here is the faceplate with the logo glued. I used Elmers wood glue. The painters tape is acting as a clamp to hold the veneer in place while the glue dries. Tomorrow I'll start coating it with Minwax polyurithane.
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Last edited by GainMaster on Sun Aug 10, 2008 1:26 am, edited 2 times in total.
Hello Brian,
It's looking good there! Just curious as to whether you had considered using waterslide decals rather then printing directly onto the veneer?
davent wrote:Hello Brian,
It's looking good there! Just curious as to whether you had considered using waterslide decals rather then printing directly onto the veneer?
dave
Didn't consider that. My head cab is dyed a dark brown with some undyed wood piping on the sides of the front plate. The face plate is dark brown also. Black lettering would not show up too well. This was a way of making the faceplate match the cab and the lettering show up. Not that much trouble really to do it this way, except I'll spend the next week getting 6 coats of poly on it.
Yesterday I did a mod on the presence of my my Wreckless. The presence pot was increased to 25K and the cap for the presence pot was increased to 220nf. It now has some serious blooming going on that can be controlled with the presence pot. Unfortunately it increased the distortion of the PI so the mean to clean thing is not working as well. My attenuation resistor between the second and third stage is 150k so I'll have to lower it to about 100k to get things right again.
Here are a couple of pics of the finished logo. I left the faceplate on the porch to dry overnight and it warped in the 100% humidity. Going to have to try it again. This time I'm covering the whole faceplate with the veneer and drop the lettering on the logo.
Brian
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Brian, Have you found some time to experiment with the Firezog line out to another amp, for gigging volumes?
I am real curious to know if that is really viable, in which case I may just tear down and convert another amp to a Studio, rather than start from scratch.
mss1 wrote:Brian, Have you found some time to experiment with the Firezog line out to another amp, for gigging volumes?
I am real curious to know if that is really viable, in which case I may just tear down and convert another amp to a Studio, rather than start from scratch.
Mss1
I have found that you have to have an interactive load (a speaker) to get the blooming. You can use the line out to a bigger amp and just keep the little amp hooked to a speaker.
That must have been interesting.
