On the basic question, DIY or take it to a pro, I'm on the fence.
The amp is a valuable classic in what appears to be 100% original condition. If I were to take it to someone, I'd want to know they have the right kind of experience that respects the originality of the amp. Technical skills are not enough. For this amp, a real pro should consider esthetics, too, even though most of what's to be done won't be seen.
OTOH, if you are confident of your soldering skills, DIY isn't off the table. Just be mindful of where you put the iron so you don't burn anything near the part that needs work.
Either way, I'd want to fix that nasty looking CT solder to the chassis. It just looks bad.
Nice find. Good luck with it.
Is it a dumb idea to work on my amp?
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Is it a dumb idea to work on my amp?
I've seen the ground solder spots blobby like that, more commonly in amps from the 1970's. It's probably factory, since no other work has been done.
Easy to fix though, I have a 300-watt soldering gun for just such occasions. It would melt that nice and quick and get it as smooth as the other ground points. The trick to so immobilize wires. I'd also lift the filament center-tap out of the ground, install two 100-ohm resistors on the pilot lamp to create a virtual center tap.
To the OP, if you're ready, then go with it. Do a section at a time. I'd order some tubes, and electrolytic capacitors, a new 12-foot grounded cord. Do the filter caps first in the doghouse and the bias supply. Confirm you have bias voltage at the output tube pins then test out the amp to see it works with the new tubes. Then I'd do the 3-wire cord, check that, and then do all the cathode bypass caps.
I'd recommend installing grommets in the holes that go to the cap doghouse. Fender sometimes left those out, sometimes put them in, I think they were relying on the capacitor fiberboard hole to keep the wire from chafing. You can find suitable vinyl grommets from a good hardware store. I alway install them anywhere a wire goes through a metal hole. I don't believe in luck.
Bring that baby up to good health. It is a great amp and yours is a nice example.
Easy to fix though, I have a 300-watt soldering gun for just such occasions. It would melt that nice and quick and get it as smooth as the other ground points. The trick to so immobilize wires. I'd also lift the filament center-tap out of the ground, install two 100-ohm resistors on the pilot lamp to create a virtual center tap.
To the OP, if you're ready, then go with it. Do a section at a time. I'd order some tubes, and electrolytic capacitors, a new 12-foot grounded cord. Do the filter caps first in the doghouse and the bias supply. Confirm you have bias voltage at the output tube pins then test out the amp to see it works with the new tubes. Then I'd do the 3-wire cord, check that, and then do all the cathode bypass caps.
I'd recommend installing grommets in the holes that go to the cap doghouse. Fender sometimes left those out, sometimes put them in, I think they were relying on the capacitor fiberboard hole to keep the wire from chafing. You can find suitable vinyl grommets from a good hardware store. I alway install them anywhere a wire goes through a metal hole. I don't believe in luck.
Bring that baby up to good health. It is a great amp and yours is a nice example.