Updated Express Bill of Material

[jaysg]

hmm...did Ken use 300V wire? I like the idea of 600V wire.

[geetarpicker]

I'm 99% sure the signal wire in my original '89 Express is 300v, but the heaters are 600v wire as well as some other parts of the power supply/output stage. The NTE wire looks nearly identical to the original stuff except for the blue and green are a slightly different shade compared to what's in my original amp.

I used the 20 gauge solid core 300v NTE WHS20 series wire for the smaller stuff, and the 18 gauge stranded 600v WH618 series for the heaters.

[geetarpicker]

Here's a pic of my parts stash that took me many months to source, enough for a matched pair.

[img667]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/ ... _2054s.jpg[/img]

[Richie]

i think too, you'll see Ken used the leftover wire from the clippings of the transformers,which alot of people do. No sense wasting good wire. Some of the transformer wire is unistrand 600v... 1015
the NTE may have a 300v rating,but not many parts its used to connect is over 300v. 1007 90degree rated
And i think the stuff is under rated,its really good wire,and the 20ga is about perfect for the wreck amps. Most of the power hookups are direct from the transformer. Some 300v wire have a 600v peak rating for electronics.

I've seen some 600v rated wire that didn't seem half as good as the NTE stuff.

I'm not a big fan of the teflon wire. I know its good wire, but i just hate to use it. I know i have read where Ken like the cheap wire,or the kind you really had to know how to solder or be quick,or the PVC insulation would melt. Almost reminds me of the radio shack type wire. Which if you look, the tech specs does not have a rating..
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... =techSpecs

there are also Consolidated,which is also really good..
http://www.conwire.com/HookUp51a.htm

And of coarse Belden
http://www.belden.com/pdfs/MasterCatalo ... .3_3.8.pdf


Glen. thats a great parts sorting box.. i just finished abother Wreck myself,i really like the OT in this one. its the ones like you have there in the pic. Nice cherry cab, and i even tried the woodburner letter look..
I'll have to take a pic or 2 of it. Sounds really good.

[gearhead]

WRT the Radio Shack wire, believe it's rated at 300V. For the life of me, can't recall where I found that; might be on some of that packaging because I have three spools from my stompbox building days.

Allynmey has the higher rated PVC in 20 gauge (600 or 1000V rated?) solid, pretinned. Available colors vary depending upon his supply, but he does sell by the foot so you don't have to get an entire spool.

I tried the teflon for my first build, an AX84 variant. Sure don't have to worry about burning off insulation. Stripping it just got too bothersome for me. Personal taste.

[gearhead]

oops, double post.

[Ron Worley]

Glen-

Nice stash.... which lends me to a couple questions....

-Do you gig with the clones to protect your original?
-The impedance selector:

-Francesca has a 12 gang Stackpole switch. That leaves 9 switch
positions where nothing is connected, and if I'm thinking at all right
they are a hazard if accidently selected.. i.e. no speaker load. Check
my math on that, please.... and what did you use??

-Wouldn't the 3 gang switch sold by Hoffman be a safer thing? I think
that's what I spied in Omar's build....

Ron

[geetarpicker]

Yes I built my clones so that I wouldn't have to worry about them on the road.

My original '89 Express uses the cheap plastic Lorin rotary switch. A 12 throw double pole unit configured for 3 positions. Both poles wired in parallel to optimize the current cability of the cheap switch. As cheap as the Lorin is I have never had any problems with it in my original Express. Since the part is currently available (Mouser) I went with the Lorin in my two clones. The only difference is the new ones are all grey, where the original was half black and half grey. The Lorin in my original was a 12 pole, but configured for 3 positions, with the other 9 switch contacts clipped off flush with the unit. I copied that too in my two clones. With the Lorin you take them apart to configure how many positions you have.

[Ron Worley]

Well then, I guess it's just down to what you're trying to do- a 100% clone, or your own "improved" version (if that's really possible).

The Unit from Hoffman looks pretty robust and is made for 3 poles. I just have to figure out what approach I'm going to take.

Thanks again for everyone's help so far, I would like to see more corrections- I know I made a lot of guesses on this.

Ron

[paulster]

The only difference is the new ones are all grey, where the original was half black and half grey.

I can get those black/grey ones here in the UK readily if you want to be super anally retentive in finishing your builds! Let me know. The only issue is they have 2" long shafts so you have to cut them to length.

The Unit from Hoffman looks pretty robust and is made for 3 poles. I just have to figure out what approach I'm going to take.

That's the NKK switch if memory serves. Mouser does them as well. I like them a lot.

[Ron Worley]

Paulster- Thanks for the offer.... I haven't really decided how anal I'm going to get here... I am actively considering bias test points and a chassis mounted bias pot (ala Fender) to allow setting it without taking the chassis out... heresy for sure... Just don't know yet.. If I get wacked out on it, I will drop you a PM on it.. any idea on cost? Bloody Pound is eating the Dollar's ass these days..

I also would like to add that I am remiss in mentioning that this document stared off as Gearhead's original and I did not start of by giving credit where due... I would have spent a whole lot more time scratching myh head with out it.... Thanks GH!

Ron

[paulster]

Paulster- Thanks for the offer.... I haven't really decided how anal I'm going to get here... I am actively considering bias test points and a chassis mounted bias pot (ala Fender) to allow setting it without taking the chassis out... heresy for sure... Just don't know yet.. If I get wacked out on it, I will drop you a PM on it.. any idea on cost? Bloody Pound is eating the Dollar's ass these days..

Ron

I actually meant for Glen since he's going the extra mile to be absolutely spot on in his replicas of Annie, but you'd be welcome too! They cost a massive £1.79, which I think equates to about $50 at the moment!

I must be a heretic then because I have an externally mounted bias pot (10 turn like the Komets) and 2mm test points on mine.

Paul

[gearhead]

By the way folks, the BOM I did that Ron used as the basis for his also includes a Liverpool parts BOM.

So until he can (or wants) to tackle the Liverpool, this one's pretty close:

https://tubeamparchive.com/download/file.php?id=1101

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... hlight=bom

[Ron Worley]

GH-

The Columns for the Liverpool are still in the document, I just hid them to clean it up. I think that a separate BOM for the 'pool would be perhaps better to keep it simple.

Also, I don't have the kind of pics like I did with Francesca, so it might be a bit harder... unless there are some out there that I don't know of.

I want to the the Express version done.... then take a break.... it's kicking my ass a little!

Ron

[Lonely Raven]

Glen, not to derail a good thread, but since you are gigging with your clones...how's the tone on them? Have you nailed it down, or it is just passable?

I was reading through some old threads about your looking for a clone that nails it, and I just figured you never got there.

Since I'm in an apartment, I think I've only turned mine past 9 Oclock on the dial twice. Once time sounded great, the other time sounded terrible. Obviously I have a long way to go.