Anyway, I was thinking of using a different method to apply the front panel (and rear). I scratch built the chassis using 2" x 1" x .125" thick aluminum channel for the front and back. Top panel is .100" thk aluminum. She's very sturdy.
Since the channel is .125" thick, I couldn't add another panel on top of that since the hardware won't fit. So, I had some 1/42" thick flamed Anigre veener that I use to veneer speakers. Veneered it just like I do my speaker cabs and it works great!
I sanded the front & rear chassis with 220 grit and applied PVA glue (yellow glue) using one of those small white foam rollers from Home Depot. It's only applied to the aluminum, not the veneer. Clamped it with a caul made from some scrap MDF and 1/16" thick foam (available @ Michael's) wrapped with shipping tape - so the glue won't stick to it.
Trimmed and sanded the veneer with 220 grit, applied several coats of natural Watco, wiped off excess, let dry for 1 - 2 days. Sprayed a few coats of Deft clear satin, let dry. Added dry transfers, burnished them REAL good, sprayed several more coats of Deft.
This method of veneering may not work for the chassis's that most of you guys use, since the corners are more rounded. The channel has sharper corners.
Probably a good deal more sturdy than the Hammond 8 x 12 
That's a good way to get beautiful figured wood at a cheaper price. It could be applied to a 1/16" aluminum faceplate carrier on a conventional chassis.
