Fixing wood faceplate to chassis?

[Phil_S]

I decided to cut a wood faceplate for my newly built 5B6. I made it from 1/16" birch plywood -- stuff you can buy in small sheets at a hobby store. The problem I've having is that after a light coat of stain and two coats of poly it is no longer flat. There is a 7" span between the power switch and the volume pot. With nothing holding it in this no man's land, it is gaping a bit at the top.

I am still waiting for my friend with the full wood shop to help me cut out front and back panels. I expect the front panel will press the wood face plate against the chassis, so I don't think that gap will be obvious. Still, I am concerned that it could start to get worse.

The question is, what, if anything, should I do about the gap? Should I put a bead of adhesive under it? If so, what kind of adhesive? I"m thinking what will work between aluminum and wood is either Weldbond glue or Permatex gasket material. Somehow, I don't think I want ordinary silicone because I'm concerned it may be corrosive. Mostly, I'm having trouble leaving well enough alone. Maybe the best course of action is to do nothing until I have the front panel?

If you click on the picture to enlarge, you'll see it bow at the top. The bottom is tight, so it is not because the holes are drilled in the wrong place!

Thanks for your thoughts.

Phil

[tsutt]

stain both sides equal.

[cbass]

Double sided tape. or

3M 77 adhesive spray

Good idea to seal both sides but thats probaly never gonna stay flat unless you sick it down

[Structo]

Yeah, I would use double side tape for that.

[Phil_S]

Yes, both sides are poly coated! I have a can of 3M Super 77. I guess that's the stuff, potentially messy, though. Lot's of masking tape and paper, I guess. I'll cast about for some 2 sided tape first. Maybe I've got some. Thanks!

[cbass]

Shouldn't be to messy just spray the back of the plate.

With the 77 it should still be easy to remove the plate.

Donot get the heavy duty double sided tape if you ever want to get that panel off in one piece.Just regualar double scotch should hold it

[Phil_S]

Thanks. This will be a PITA on account of the pilot light. Maybe I can get lucky, unbolt it, pull out a bit, lots of tape and paper, and spray in place.

[Cantplay]

3M VHB tape.

Very strong and thin.

John

[MCK]

Hmmm, how about a hole in the middle for a new pot? You can always mod it to include a tone control or something... VVR perhaps?

[Phil_S]

Hmmm, how about a hole in the middle for a new pot? You can always mod it to include a tone control or something... VVR perhaps?

LOL! I love the simplicity of this 2 knob amp. I decided it wasn't necessary to label anything. I figure, if a player doesn't know the difference between V and T on a 2 knob amp, he should play acoustic. Already, at my age, 3 knobs will require labels ;-{

I think I'm going to wait until the front panel is made and then I'll see what if anything I'll do.

[M Fowler]

Hmmm, how about a hole in the middle for a new pot? You can always mod it to include a tone control or something... VVR perhaps?

LOL! I love the simplicity of this 2 knob amp. I decided it wasn't necessary to label anything. I figure, if a player doesn't know the difference between V and T on a 2 knob amp, he should play acoustic. Already, at my age, 3 knobs will require labels ;-{

I think I'm going to wait until the front panel is made and then I'll see what if anything I'll do.

Yeah the 5b6 is a great amp and I was going to do the same thing just use guitar knobs on my cage amp so I could have volume and tone marked.

[Reeltarded]

Just use one dual ganged pot and wire the tone backwards so it gets less treble with volume.

Jees you guys are anti-control freaks!! heh

[BruceLa44]

I glue wood veneer to aluminum chassis with solvent based contact cement. The same type used for formica cabinet tops. This is after varnishing and finishing the front with bare wood on the back side.

[Phil_S]

I found that it was necessary to provide a bit more relief at the holes around the lamp and switch. I used my deburring tool to scrape one side of the hole, trimming off very little. It was enough to relieve the tension. It turns out was wrong about the cause. I used a bit of double sided tape in the space between the switch and the pots. It is all good now.

I'm still waiting for my friend with the wood shop to call me and tell me to come over -- eventually he will, he's just busy with other stuff. We'll make front and back panels from whatever scrap he's got lying around, maybe some cherry.