recovering carpet cabs?
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recovering carpet cabs?
I've got a carpeted TL-806 that I'd like to get that "rat fur " off of -- I have dogs and their hair likes to join the fur, so the carpet is a drag. Is removal a particular drag with the carpeting?[/i]
Re: recovering carpet cabs?
I suppose it depends on what kind of glue was used to attach it.
If it is a contact type cement, a heat gun may help along with a putty knife.
Short of that would be chemical strippers which are nasty to use.
If it is a contact type cement, a heat gun may help along with a putty knife.
Short of that would be chemical strippers which are nasty to use.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: recovering carpet cabs?
razor blade the edge.
as said use a hot gun and putty knife to pry the edge up and keep working it. it helps if you have a second pair of hands. Wear heavy leather gloves to avoid being burned by the heat gun. One person pulls the carpet up and away while the other directs the heat gun and operates the putty knife. a razor blade knife also works really well cutting gently down into the glue not the wood at a 45 degree angle at the seem.
If it's not coming off relatively easy. cut relief strips in it with a razor blade and take it off a few inches at a time.
after you have the bulk of the carpet removed.
use a heavy grit sand paper and palm sander to remove the residue and prep the surface for new material or stain. do not use a belt sander it is to aggressive and can chew into the surface creating the need to get creative with bondo or wood filler. It's a huge head ache, Yes I learned the hard way.
probably a good idea to wear resporator masks and eye protection as well as being in a well ventalated area or outside the glue can be toxic or at least give you a horrible headache when heated.
as said use a hot gun and putty knife to pry the edge up and keep working it. it helps if you have a second pair of hands. Wear heavy leather gloves to avoid being burned by the heat gun. One person pulls the carpet up and away while the other directs the heat gun and operates the putty knife. a razor blade knife also works really well cutting gently down into the glue not the wood at a 45 degree angle at the seem.
If it's not coming off relatively easy. cut relief strips in it with a razor blade and take it off a few inches at a time.
after you have the bulk of the carpet removed.
use a heavy grit sand paper and palm sander to remove the residue and prep the surface for new material or stain. do not use a belt sander it is to aggressive and can chew into the surface creating the need to get creative with bondo or wood filler. It's a huge head ache, Yes I learned the hard way.
probably a good idea to wear resporator masks and eye protection as well as being in a well ventalated area or outside the glue can be toxic or at least give you a horrible headache when heated.
My Daughter Build Stone Henge
Re: recovering carpet cabs?
I know that Jim from Scumback speakers said he uses a belt sander to take the rest of the glue and residue off.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: recovering carpet cabs?
it's quick but if it gets away from you it's a lot of work to repair.Structo wrote:I know that Jim from Scumback speakers said he uses a belt sander to take the rest of the glue and residue off.
My Daughter Build Stone Henge
Re: recovering carpet cabs?
Belt sander works well. If recovering with tolex it is fairly forgiving.
Don't use it around the corners or on the edges. Hand sand is safest here.
As already stated, a heat gun is really good to minimise pulling up of strips of ply on the edges or ripping edges if the cabinet is solid wood. Slow and steady. It's the bits you can't see from the outside of the cab, where the tolex normally folds under and finishes, which can be the most frustrating and fiddly. Needs to be relatively clean to ensure the next covering sticks well or the edges fold up. If with carpet you don't have this, it will make the job a lot easier.
It's much more fun making new cabinets from scratch than removing and unsticking them
Don't use it around the corners or on the edges. Hand sand is safest here.
As already stated, a heat gun is really good to minimise pulling up of strips of ply on the edges or ripping edges if the cabinet is solid wood. Slow and steady. It's the bits you can't see from the outside of the cab, where the tolex normally folds under and finishes, which can be the most frustrating and fiddly. Needs to be relatively clean to ensure the next covering sticks well or the edges fold up. If with carpet you don't have this, it will make the job a lot easier.
It's much more fun making new cabinets from scratch than removing and unsticking them
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gary sanders
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Re: recovering carpet cabs?
Could also try a steam iron on low with a few sheets of aluminum foil over it