Relay Boards

[surfsup]

Anyone making relay boards and selling them? I want to switch in one or two possible functions. I plan to tap the existing 6.3 filament winding or go with a separate small transformer. I searched tag quite a bit and sent a couple PMs, but doesn't seem like there's much aside from building one, and the relay most use is "backordered" from mouser, so I'm using a different one for now:

mouser # 551-ec2-12nj

Any probs with this relay?

If anyone has a layout to etch their own board they are willing to share I'd appreciate that as well.

[Colossal]

Yes, I'm still offering them but my FS ad expired here on the Garage. I have shipped all existing orders. I have a loaded relay board and a relay power supply board.

You don't have to use the power supply but I had them made for guys that don't want to hassle getting parts for their projects (me included) and just want to plug and play. The power supply board will work well with 6VAC input to about 12V. I've actually run them on 5VAC and they don't cut out. Anything over 12V input is still ok, but it makes the 7805 regulator dissipate more than it has to. Also, the caps are rated to about 25VDC.

You can PM me if you are interested. I was offering them as a set of 3 relay boards and 1 power supply at a reduced rate or by the piece. I plan to repost the ad after my return from travel this week.

Here is a photo of the relay board and power supply.

[img:640:480]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7561678/Boards/Boards.png[/img]

[David Root]

I have four of Colossal's relay boards in my current build, they are very nicely made and soldered.

I've also used the NEC EC2-12NJ and-5NJ relays, they are considerably smaller but are reliable.

The only relay I've had die on me was the HAD standard 12V NTE model, in my '70s ODS.

[Structo]

These are the relays I used, work great

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... V-2-H-DC12

In stock and ready to ship.

[surfsup]

Structo, i just ordered from mouser and the omrons were backordered. Wtf. The difference a few hours makes...i might get dave's board. Waiting to hear from him thx... Whatever i do i'll make it work!

[Gaz]

Try this Omron. I don't see any difference in the specs:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omr ... qAI08CI%3d

[surfsup]

Gaz, already ordered but thanks. I see there is still the red "mfg delays are reported on this product" message, but they now have 600 in stock. I looked at three omrons and they were all backordered. They musta got a shipment that afternoon with some and updated after I ordered.

I got three relays from mouser, and also ordered Dave's boards to support a tag member. I'm good for now as I still haven't even figured out the relays yet, but I will.

One question abour relays, if it is NO and its a non-latching relay, wouldn't it only close for when I apply power to the relay, then reopen immediately afterwards? This reads to me as a momentary switch. So I'm missing something about these relays because they obviously work properly or people wouldn't be using them.

[Structo]

Yeah, Mouser can be fickle at times.
I love it when I go to order more of a component I have bought before and now it is obsolete or not available.
Many of the things us tube amp builders use are not that common anymore in the electronics world so we have to pick and choose carefully.

If you happen to have a Fry's nearby, they carry NTE parts.
I've picked up a couple relays there before when I was in a bind.

I like the high sensitivity relays because you can load down the power supply and still have them switch.

No a latching relay stays switched when the power is removed.

Non latching only stays switched as long as power is applied.

With the type of relays we use in the Dumbles, they are DPDT relays.

So you have a normally closed switch and normally open switch on each side.

Depending on which relay boards you use, pay attention to what is being switched in order to wire it up correctly.

I like to use the 16 pin DIP sockets as well for the relays.
No overheating of relays when soldering and replacement is a breeze if a new relay is needed.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 575-199316

[crbowman]

I like to use the 16 pin DIP sockets as well for the relays.
No overheating of relays when soldering and replacement is a breeze if a new relay is needed.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 575-199316

+1
I used these sockets in mine. Haven't had to replace a relay yet, but if I ever need to it's no prob. Plus you're not going to burn your relays up with the soldering iron.

Easiest way to figure out your relays is get a 9 volt battery, some clip leads, and your DVM, and play around with it. It should become obvious pretty quickly how it works.

[Tonegeek]

Anyone making relay boards and selling them? I want to switch in one or two possible functions. I plan to tap the existing 6.3 filament winding or go with a separate small transformer. I searched tag quite a bit and sent a couple PMs, but doesn't seem like there's much aside from building one, and the relay most use is "backordered" from mouser, so I'm using a different one for now:

mouser # 551-ec2-12nj

Any probs with this relay?

If anyone has a layout to etch their own board they are willing to share I'd appreciate that as well.

There is only one issue with the 551-ec2-12nj relay. The spacing is .2" from side to side and sockets are standardized at .3" I have used these relays in several builds with no operational issues, but am going to try these next time instead: 551-ea2-12nj
They are standard (.3") spacing and should fit a socket. electrical specs are same as the 551-ec2-12nj.

[ampdoc1]

Try this guy for populated boards. He ordered a batch of the 3-relay boards I designed and may still have some for sale.

curt@grangeramp.com

[David Root]

There is a way to make DIP type bases for those small relays. i bought some SIPs, which are 0.1 spaced single lines, and broke them up to suit the relays.
1) Drill the board relay holes out a little, making sure not to punch out the board underside contacts from the board. (This requires a small hand drill, see a pic of that too).

2) Mount the SIPs with CA glue, I will be much more careful with the glue next time, you don't need much at all and you can end up with a glue-insulated connection if you're not careful.

3) let the glue tack up a bit and put a small piece of wood on the SIPs and force them to flush AND square with the board using a 1" C-clamp. Let sit overnite.

[surfsup]

I noticed the long length was off too, between the pins (got the relays today after a cancellation cut my trip short). I bought a set from colossal to use for now, as these are going to be a pain for a first try.

I did buy dip-strips for pedal builds and have some left. This is half a dip, in a long strip of pins that you can snip to length. I got some of that, and some 1/16th eyelets so when i do use em i think i can make a custom sized dip socket for them.

Structo Regarding the non latching i think you n i are saying the same thing, which is why im confused. If it doesnt stay connected, it would switch the effect.channel.pab in, then right back out...?

[ApexJr.]

These are the relays I used, work great

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... V-2-H-DC12

In stock and ready to ship.

I think I have these in stock and will check tomorrow
and my price will be $1.00 ea

Steve

[The New Steve H]

Is there any respectable way to mount a relay on an eyelet board? I came up with a working solution, but it involves cable ties.

I have the stuff to make PCBs. Maybe it's time to use it.