Comments and questions as my build progresses...

[Tonegeek]

What is the best wire to use for footswitch cable (part number and source)? I need minimum 4 conductors.
For the neg feedback should I use the 4 ohm tap and alternate FB resistor value (Mine is a 50 watt amp)?

Progress report and comments:
I spent much time on my layout (you would think I might be building more than one of these hehe! )
Layout seems to take longer than the actual build, but is paying off as I begin construction.
control panel laminates/templates are printed. The ink looks a bit faded, but Kinkos could not do any better. I wonder if doing them in color would help (even though the panels are black and white)
From 2 feet away, they look like the real thing.
Boards are drilled with eyelets installed. (I used Mouser 534-45 eyelets but next time I will use smaller eyelets (Mouser 534-35) except where needed.)
Precison PS board is 95% populated (waiting on back ordered parts)
Relay board is complete and tested (I did this the hard way, but it is really slick. Will post a pic sometime)
Chassis is partially drilled (warning - cheap Harbor Freight drill press has some play in the vertical control which can cause the bit to wander if you are not careful! )
Heard a negative comment about the step bits from Harbor Freight. Mine works OK, but then again I am working with Aluminum only.
Debating whether to buy a table saw and build my own cab. I want the amp to have a pro look with Tolex. I plan on gigging with this amp.

whit

[Bob-I]

For the neg feedback should I use the 4 ohm tap and alternate FB resistor value (Mine is a 50 watt amp)?

That's what I've always used. Normster's done a bunch of expecimentation on the NFB.

Progress report and comments:
I spent much time on my layout (you would think I might be building more than one of these hehe! )
Layout seems to take longer than the actual build, but is paying off as I begin construction.

Yep, that's the way it always is.

control panel laminates/templates are printed. The ink looks a bit faded, but Kinkos could not do any better. I wonder if doing them in color would help (even though the panels are black and white)
From 2 feet away, they look like the real thing.

REALLY??? mine are dark black and perfect.

quote]Chassis is partially drilled (warning - cheap Harbor Freight drill press has some play in the vertical control which can cause the bit to wander if you are not careful! )[/quote]

Yes, I center punch to prevent this. It's either that or invest in a better drill press which I don't want to do.

Heard a negative comment about the step bits from Harbor Freight. Mine works OK, but then again I am working with Aluminum only.

Mine wore out after a few holes. I found it worth the money to get a quality step bit instead of buying more of the cheepys.

Debating whether to buy a table saw and build my own cab. I want the amp to have a pro look with Tolex. I plan on gigging with this amp.[/quote]

I don't know how you'd make a decent cab without a table saw and a router.

Sounds like you've made lots of progress, great!

[Normster]

What is the best wire to use for footswitch cable (part number and source)? I need minimum 4 conductors.

I use "security wire" from Lowe's. 5-conductor 18AWG stranded. It looks like the same stuff Dumble used.

[Tonegeek]

REALLY??? mine are dark black and perfect.

Your response prompted me to take some action. I called Kinkos to see if I could get better quality and of course, I can. Turns out they can print on vinyl and then laminate that. Not sure why they could not tell me that the first go 'round, but they refunded my money on the initial paper ones so no complaints although I have to say the price is up there with vinyl - $25. But, WoW! the difference in quality is amazing. These are perfect now and should also be more durable. One problem though. I believe the vinyl as it is being laminated, tends to shrink because these faceplates were about 1/4" shorter than the paper ones and the width may have lost about 1/16" or so. I saw no evidence that they cut them short, must be shrinkage. Anyway, I can work with it and in the future I will go a bit long to compensate. They sure look good.

Got my back plate all drilled and routed tonight. I tried a wood bit to drill a 1-1/8" hole for my impedance switch and it was almost a disaster. That thing bounced all over town. I had the bit in a hand drill because the chassis was too deep to work with my press, so maybe that caused my issue. I could use my press for the rest of the large holes since the chassis will fit the press on those faces, but I am hesitant now to use the wood bits going forward unless someone here can tell me what went wrong. Maybe the bit was dull. Not sure how I will cut the tube socket holes, but I will figure something out. worst case, I can buy some of those expensive hole punches, or use a hole cutting metal bit.

[heisthl]

Why laminate the vinyl? It is made for outdoor sign use and for the 25 bucks you can get at least 3 front and 3 back panels on a sheet all cut out ready to peel and stick (good for if you screw up or damage the panel later). The last time I was there they only charged me 10 bucks for a sheet with 3 fronts, 3 backs and 4 fx loop panels. If the chassis is smooth enough you can stick them on direct without making a faceplate. As far as the 1 1/8 hole goes, the cheapie knockout punch set from Harbor Freight will do it - and as a bonus another punch in the same kit does the correct size for the chinese ceramic 9 pin sockets. A word of caution on the Harbor Freight punch set - it works great in aluminum, not so great in steel (leaves a bent ridge around the hole that you need to cut with a step bit).

[Tonegeek]

Why laminate the vinyl?

I asked about using something self-sticking, but the same person who misinformed me earlier said they could not do that. I found out today that they can do it, but a day late and 25$ short. It sure would make things easier if it was peel and stick although I think the laminate should be more durable in the long run. I also found out the vinyl I had laminated is not self sticking. Also, I should have had more panels made since I was already paying for the vinyl, just wasn't thinking... So, I better not screw up the ones I have! It pays to ask you guys first.

About the shrinkage I mentioned elswhere, Kinkos has no explanation for why this happened. They say it is not due to heat of lamination. So that is still a mystery to me. They did kindly offer a redo if I wanted, so I have that option. They also said they could laminate the sticky vinyl and that you can peel off the back laminate to expose the sticky surface. Seems like the idea faceplate, laminated on one side for durability and sticky on the other. That begs the question- should I glue my faceplates on or just let the controls hold it on? If glue, what kind (see I am learning to ask the right questions!)

I will look into the punch from Harbor. i was also thinking that using the hand drill with the wood bit caused most of my problem due to lack of control (or maybe I just mixed my after work refreshment too strong ...). I may try again with a scrap piece of aluminum using my press, AND a new bit instead of the one I had laying around for years... Thanks for the tips

[heisthl]

What software are you using to make the panel graphics? If it's Visio, the local Kninko's here in Phoenix wants the file in .svg which is a save option in Visio. The guy at the store said they use Adobe Illustrator to layout the vinyl.
Initially I tried using the Kinko's online printer save to file format and when I took it to the store they said "What's this" - they never use it.

[Bob-I]

That begs the question- should I glue my faceplates on or just let the controls hold it on? If glue, what kind (see I am learning to ask the right questions!)

I glue the paper faceplate to a piece of 1/16" gargolite using Formula 77 spray, then use double faced carpet tape on the ends, maybe a 2" strip, just to hold it in place while I put the controls in. The controls do the majority of holding the faceplate, but I hate it hanging loose when I'm playing around with controls.

[Tonegeek]

What software are you using to make the panel graphics?

I use Paint Shop Pro and save to .JPG with no compression. Kinkos seems to be OK with that format around here.

[heisthl]

Maybe next time you can print it on banner paper the correct size and include it with the file so Kinko's will have something to compare the final product with to make sure the dimension is right.

[Tonegeek]

Maybe next time you can print it on banner paper the correct size and include it with the file so Kinko's will have something to compare the final product with to make sure the dimension is right.

good idea.