ATA Case

[selloutrr]

I'm looking for Opinions on ATA case design / features.

I need to build a batch of combo cases soon.
What I want to include is a place to store extra tubes, footswitches, cables, etc.
5/8th or 3/4" fiberglass standard ATA covered plywood.
Large Heavy ball corners
Heavey duty recessed latches and hardware, 4" casters, 4" spaced rivets.

My question is which is better to build the storage compartment into the top or bottom of the case.

The bottom
PRO- is nice because the top is often used to place the amp on = nothing to rattle.
CON- it raises the center of gravity prone to tipping?

In the Cover
Pro - low center of gravity
CON - possible rattles if used to support an operating amp.

thoughts?

[daydreamer]

wouldn't it rattle to some degree where ever it is? I think on the top is best, there is enough bending over in the music business as is...

sweet idea, by the way.

Andy

[selloutrr]

the rattle in transport isn't the concern the cavity can be packed with foam if it's an issue. the rattling was a concern if you used the top like this.

[daydreamer]

I think top is still best, but maybe some foam dividers with velcro tabs in the storage space will prevent rattles? It would be good if tubes are being stored there; to keep them away from footswitches etc

[selloutrr]

It'll have 2" of foam min around the entire amp. then built up around the storage box.

I shrink wrap the tube's labeled with positions to a cardboard backing so in the event of failure it's plug and play plus it keeps them all together and easy to tell if they have been openned. I tape a razorblade on to be nice. folded on the back are the data test sheets from the amplitrex for each tube so the client knows what they just purchased by openning the heat shrink.

Head cabs are easy, I just add a box on the side.

[daydreamer]

razerblade is a nice touch. I could use it on the drummer...

So the stuff in the compartment it a set list of components & accessories for the rentals you do?

If so then a 'shadow board' approach would make it easy to see what is missing etc. when it comes back in.

Like the tool shed shadow board outlines, but done in foam.

[daydreamer]

whoops, just saw the 'clients just purchased' bit, still would look schmicko having it all 'a place for everything' like.

You know though, from a construction point of view, it may be easier to have it in the base like you have drawn. Decisions, Decisions...either way I don't think rattles are going to happen with plenty of dividing foam.

[Structo]

Not sure but do they like casters on flight cases?
Seems like it may make stowing a bit difficult on an airplane.

But if they do, then the larger 4" should help prevent tipping when rolling the case.
I would think you would want to keep CG as low as possibility for stability.

[ToneMerc]

It would top mount the storage space to keep it from being load bearing.

1. Instead of a compartment, I would mount a 4 SP rack rail and install a 3 SP slide out drawer.

2. For the front casters, install the kind that you can lock.

TM

[selloutrr]

Thanks for the Feedback!

I agree with the locking casters.

I'm not a fan of rack drawers they buzz like a jar full of pennies on a paint shaker. I have a drawer in my touring bass rig and even being completely shock mounted and free standing it still buzzes when I hit a low E or B. had to pack the rails with foam making it difficult to open and close. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible. I'm not against the foam cut outs but at times the rental accessories can change. i.e. a pedal or two, extra cables, power strips, variac ( last two bad examples since they are to large to fit ) but it's not always a set list.

My gut feeling is the compartment should be on the bottom with the heavy dense foam load should not be an issue. I guess i'll have to mock one up and see how top heavy it actually is. If i can push it and let it roll for a good 30ft and not tip it's safe if it nose dives. It's a bust.

I ship with wheels all the time. without casters they would be impossibly heavy to move. OK you CAN do it but your back is going to hurt. 40lb amp plus weight of heavy ATA case is at least 75lbs. I'll add a shipping label dish on the top as well.

[Bruciep07]

My gut feeling is the compartment should be on the bottom with the heavy dense foam load should not be an issue.

Mark,

What type of foam are you using for your interior? I wanted to build a couple of cases (if nothing else, just for storage) for head cabs and was stuck on foam choice. Wasn't sure if I should do a 2" dense polyethylene layer or mix it up with something softer. Reliable hardware (.com) is the place I found to buy all the parts, but it would be great to find everything somewhere else a bit cheaper if possible...

Bruce

[selloutrr]

I buy my supplies from Penn Fabrication.
www.penn-fabrication.com

Foam - polyethylene 2" (50mm) M62951 24" x 108" sheets (6.72lbs)

I use the 2" foam for all shock mounting. In some head cases I'll use 1.5" It depends on weight. for combo amps I use 2" on the bottom. then depending on design and the cases primary use I'll pick the size of foam for the walls and top. I personally don't use a case with less then 1/2" thick walls I've seen to many punched threw. If it's going to be shipped cross country on a regular basis or the equipment is $$$ i'll add more protection. If it's just for the ease of stacking and keeping clean I'll make it smaller to save space. Keep in mind the bigger the box the more weight = $$ shipping costs.

[Bruciep07]

I buy my supplies from Penn Fabrication.
www.penn-fabrication.com

Foam - polyethylene 2" (50mm) M62951 24" x 108" sheets (6.72lbs)

I use the 2" foam for all shock mounting. In some head cases I'll use 1.5" It depends on weight. for combo amps I use 2" on the bottom. then depending on design and the cases primary use I'll pick the size of foam for the walls and top. I personally don't use a case with less then 1/2" thick walls I've seen to many punched threw. If it's going to be shipped cross country on a regular basis or the equipment is $$$ i'll add more protection. If it's just for the ease of stacking and keeping clean I'll make it smaller to save space. Keep in mind the bigger the box the more weight = $$ shipping costs.

Thanks Mark, that's what I wanted to know... If I'm going to go through the effort to build an ATA style case, I'm going to build it as if I'm shipping the amp, no use in going through the motion to make a flimsy case... Once again, I appreciate the help Mark!
Bruce

[selloutrr]

ok for full on ATA case material

3/4" birch ply with fiberglass shell

(color doesn't matter, but a bright color is not a bad idea makes it easy to locate if misplaced.) I've removed a couple amps from the lost an found at airports because the lazy ass security guy could see it without getting out of his chair.

Heavy ball corners

1" rail

Recessed Handles w/ raised rail channels

*IF you live in a wet climate of ship to a wet climate consider channel and groove with a gasket to prevent moisture from getting in. It's not 100% air tight but it's the next best thing.

2" foam all the way around.

Add an additional piece of 3/4" plywood on the bottom of the case before you mount the casters.

4" casters

also make room for a shipping dish for your packing labels.

[guitardude57]

Caster board can be 3/4"

But the case shell should be 1/4 to 3/8 ply .........is plenty.

The covering for that is ABS sheet. Not fiberglass

After extrusions, valances, and corners....plenty stout.

And won't take King Kong to pick up.

Everything I have is in ATA cases............never had a case failure in over 25 years. And none has been over 3/8 inch plywood in them.