I would like to make some patch cables of various lengths for linking a few effect pedals, a volume pedal, tuner and a signal switcher. I am looking for recommendations for high quality cable and connectors. As you know, there are kits which include say 3 meters of quality cable and a dozen speed connectors (angled or straight). These include George L, Planet Waves, etc.
I don't mind spending a few bucks but don't need to buy into hype. I use Mogami instrument cables presently.
Thanks.
Patch cable recommendations
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Patch cable recommendations
I do not use the quick connectors. Always solder a connector to what ever cable you use. I have had good results with Belden, Canare, George L, and others, but always use solder connections. I also prefer Switchcraft jacks, but have used G&H and Neutrik. I like the right angle switchcraft jack W-SC-226 over the G&H right angle , due to the fact that the G&H back cover can get lost if it loosens up.
Actually, if you can find the solid brass jacks they are the best in my experience, military. Never have seen an Angled one though.

Actually, if you can find the solid brass jacks they are the best in my experience, military. Never have seen an Angled one though.
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vibratoking
- Posts: 2640
- Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:55 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Re: Patch cable recommendations
I like and use the quick connectors, like George-L and Bill Lawrence, for an installation where I will not be constantly connecting and reconnecting. I've had great luck with them.
I always use soldered connections when I know I will be handling the cables often.
I also use Switchcraft and Neutrik. I located some thick walled heat shrink tubing that I shrink over the connector and the last 3 or 4 inches of cable. It helps to relieve some of the flexing that occurs where the cable meets the connector. I find that this flexing causes the failure of almost 100% of my cables.
I always use soldered connections when I know I will be handling the cables often.
I also use Switchcraft and Neutrik. I located some thick walled heat shrink tubing that I shrink over the connector and the last 3 or 4 inches of cable. It helps to relieve some of the flexing that occurs where the cable meets the connector. I find that this flexing causes the failure of almost 100% of my cables.
Re: Patch cable recommendations
Excellent advice guys, thanks for the detailed posts. I don't plan to be plugging and unplugging much (if at all) as this is for a pedalboard setup (I may even rack mount some of the stuff). But I will solder the connections (I prefer that anyway), that's sage advice.
I've heard nothing but good about the aforementioned wire (Belden, Canare, et al) so will give one of them a shot.
Thanks a lot.
I've heard nothing but good about the aforementioned wire (Belden, Canare, et al) so will give one of them a shot.
Thanks a lot.
Re: Patch cable recommendations
I like GS-4 and 226 or G&H for 90s. Large Valve has a warning for 226 users...unless the chassis part is soldered to ground, the mechanical connection can go bad. It takes extra flux, thick solder and some practice to avoid fouling the threads. The first one I did read 15M ohms for about three days. I think I didn't get all the flux out or burned off...had to evaporate.
Re: Patch cable recommendations
it comes down to space.
How close are you spacing the pedals?
I see the George L cables used on professional touring pedal boards all the time.
The next most popular is the Switchcraft right angle with a canarie or mogami cable.
forget planet waves, monster, hosa, whirlwind, proco, and other "hype" brands.
Twist lock connectors are fine if they are installed and never moved. If you are patching and unpatching everytime you play use a soldered connection.
How close are you spacing the pedals?
I see the George L cables used on professional touring pedal boards all the time.
The next most popular is the Switchcraft right angle with a canarie or mogami cable.
forget planet waves, monster, hosa, whirlwind, proco, and other "hype" brands.
Twist lock connectors are fine if they are installed and never moved. If you are patching and unpatching everytime you play use a soldered connection.
My Daughter Build Stone Henge
Re: Patch cable recommendations
Shortest path possible, so efficiently laid out with minimal spacing.selloutrr wrote:it comes down to space. How close are you spacing the pedals?
Yeah, Eric Johnson uses George L cable...I figured good enough for him, more than good enough for me. Seriously, I was looking at Switchcraft angled connectors and either Canare or George L cable.selloutrr wrote:I see the George L cables used on professional touring pedal boards all the time. The next most popular is the Switchcraft right angle with a canarie or mogami cable.
Done.selloutrr wrote:forget planet waves, monster, hosa, whirlwind, proco, and other "hype" brands.
These would be pretty much set'em and forget'em.selloutrr wrote:Twist lock connectors are fine if they are installed and never moved. If you are patching and unpatching everytime you play use a soldered connection.
Re: Patch cable recommendations
perfect!
OK, build two very nice Switchcraft / canarie or mogami instrument cables to use from your guitar to the pedal board and from the pedal board to the amp. Use George L for all patching on the board. depending on how close you space the pedals you may also want to use the connector rubber covers to prevent them from touching the metal housing of pedals and causing possible grounding issues.
OK, build two very nice Switchcraft / canarie or mogami instrument cables to use from your guitar to the pedal board and from the pedal board to the amp. Use George L for all patching on the board. depending on how close you space the pedals you may also want to use the connector rubber covers to prevent them from touching the metal housing of pedals and causing possible grounding issues.
My Daughter Build Stone Henge