Front Panel Designer Help Please

[steveneddy]

Who is using Front Panel Designer for manufacturing amp face plates for their amps?

I have recently "discovered" this vendor with the free application - and frankly - I find it a wonderful tool for design work of the panels.

My question is this:

I cannot get exacting measurements even at the smallest scales offered on the application - it's off by maybe 2-8 thousandths either way - up or down.

It's kinda driving me nuts - but I just want to ensure the holes are cut in the right spots for the JTM45 chassis - my chassis of choice for my needs.

How exact do you think I need to be - is it better to be .002 under - or up to .008 over the measurements between the holes on the chassis.

Do I have to be totally exact down to the thousandth? How much leeway can I have here? If if came down to it I could always Dremel out the chassis a little - but would like to avoid that if at all possible.

I ask for two reasons:

1. I want to order a couple of face plates bare, as in no color - front and rear - to ensure the alignment is totally correct for the JTM45 chassis from Mojotone.

2. If the holes are in the correct spots - I can create new face plate designs by simply deleting various holes - like if I wanted only volume and tone controls - simply delete what I don't need and put the control pot locations on the face plate where I need them once I have the correct hole alignment for the chassis.

* * * * * * * * *

Sorry for the long post - but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks - Steve

[wyatt]

-.002 or +.008 of an inch?!??

I want you to really think about this for a while. A good long while. Two thooooouuuuuusaaaaaandths of an inch...a measurement you can't show between two fingers...thinner than a sheet of 20# paper (.0038")...yes, there are a lot of functions where thi can be live and death...faceplates aren't one of them.

How many .002" (also known as "2 mil") would it take to add up to anything significant? It would take 20 measurements across at -.002" to add up to 1 millimeter of difference, which would still be well within tolerance of any faceplate I've seen.

But to set your mind at ease...the holes on the faceplate can be slightly larger than the holes in the chassis to allow for a liberal tolerance in fitting. They don't have to be flush because the bushings and nuts of the pots and switches hide the edges. If you had to ream the faceplate a little to fit, it also would be completely hidden.

[M Fowler]

Steve,

I think it changes our entry based on nearest cutter size. You should be fine.

Are you able to get control numbering or markings I can't.

Can anyone share a panel file that has numbering or marking around the control holes?

[LeftyStrat]

Steve,

I think it changes our entry based on nearest cutter size. You should be fine.

Are you able to get control numbering or markings I can't.

Can anyone share a panel file that has numbering or marking around the control holes?

Mark, I'm working on it and will share if I get it worked out. I've finally found some software that doesn't piss me off for designing faceplates on the Mac. It's called Artboard. Still rough around the edges, but lets me edit the graphics I have put down, and has a 'polar duplicate' that will do dials and stuff.

Wish more programs supported SVG import and export.
It's still a little rough around the edges.

But it is the most intuitive software I have found. Still having issues with background appearing different in PDF output:

[M Fowler]

Looks really good I wonder how they would do that graphics or logo?

I spent the past 1/2 hour converting some .pdf to .plt to merge as HPGL for FrontPanelExpress. But cannot upload on TAG so if anyone needs a JTM45 or JTM50 front panel in .fpd email me.

[LeftyStrat]

Looks really good I wonder how they would do that graphics or logo?

I spent the past 1/2 hour converting some .pdf to .plt to merge as HPGL for FrontPanelExpress. But cannot upload on TAG so if anyone needs a JTM45 or JTM50 front panel in .fpd email me.

What I am looking at right now is using Kinkos Vinyl Decal service, which can do grey scale printing. It's supposed to last ten years.

I'm in love with Rocket Girl.

[LeftyStrat]

Sorry if this is offensive, but it's approved by my wife and two daughters.

[steveneddy]

Here's my progress so far - I want to say it is finished - but some more measurements and final checks before I send the file to get machined.

And you know - once THIS design is finalized it makes it easier to make amp face plates for other projects I have in mind for the future.

[steveneddy]

Double post - delete please - I can't seem to figure out how.

[steveneddy]

Here's my progress so far - I want to say it is finished - but some more measurements and final checks before I send the file to get machined.

And you know - once THIS design is finalized it makes it easier to make amp face plates for other projects I have in mind for the future.

[steveneddy]

I found that once I was able to get the holes aligned properly - or at least close to it - I worked on the numbering around one hole - and once it was satisfactory I simply copied it to each additional hole.

I drew a circle in the approximate diameter I was needing and put the numbers around the circle using the mirror, align and distributing tools on the application.

I then deleted the circle - leaving the numbers behind.

I used a ruler, protractor, drawing tool with angles printed on it and a digital caliper to get the measurements and lettering looking correct and in the right spot.

I am not very good at this stuff - but I know that if I spend enough time with anything I can accomplish my goals.

So - how does it look? Any improvement needed? Or any constructive advice I could take advantage of?

Thanks for the replies.

- Steve