De-soldering in crowded areas

[angelodp]

What practices do you use to de-solder in a crowded area. for instance...snubbers on V2 that are below heaters and near other components.
Is there any type of shielding that can be positioned on heaters or other components to avoid scorching them. I have a slim Iron but its still pretty tight.

[selloutrr]

you can use alligator clips to defuse the heat from burning other components.

needle nose pliers to move wires and components out of the way, or pull the component under question free.

a steady hand.

pre tin the tip of the iron so you have a free hand to use the pliers, or a chop stick.

sometimes you just have to remove other parts to get to the one you want.

Draw out a diagram with polarity so you can get it all back to together later.

[Phil_S]

I have an aluminum clip, meant to be used as a heat sink for this purpose. Solder doesn't stick to it. It is like a flat, almost 2 dimensional clothes pin, no rough edges. It can also be useful to hold things out of the way when properly positioned.

[coolidge]

I have an aluminum clip, meant to be used as a heat sink for this purpose. Solder doesn't stick to it. It is like a flat, almost 2 dimensional clothes pin, no rough edges. It can also be useful to hold things out of the way when properly positioned.

Radioshack has small chrome "micro" clips with flat smooth jaws (no teeth). I use these for heat sinks, they fit into tight areas. They are maybe 1 inch long.

[surfsup]

I went to autozone and got a multipack of gator clips. There are some minis in there about 3/4-1" long. I took off the rubberized cover and clip them on all the leads going to an eyelet or turret and that helps me get more time with the iron on the leads to do what I need to do without worrying about heating up the passives too much.

[rp]

These are helpful too, very tiny, I find myself using them all the time. They are faux copper because that's the sorry state of the world but they have nice flat tips that might help draw heat. Careful not to leave them in an amp... Careful not to leave them in an amp...Careful not to leave them in an amp...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062233

Wick adds up and they don't give you 10' anymore, I use a pump first then wick. For what we do I like the wide stuff: Chemtronics #5 80-5-5.

[angelodp]

Yes have plenty of clips and heat sink devices, just wondering about those bumps into components that are alongside the shaft of the solder pen. Is there a very thin asbestos material or some other material that can be placed on a cap to protect it.

thanks guys

[Cliff Schecht]

Kapton tape won't burn with an iron, but it will allow the material below it to cook. I usually build stuff in such a way that I can move parts a little bit to handle soldering in such tight areas. After building enough amps that were impossible to work on, I've learned to always plan for modifications in my builds no matter how big or small. Sometimes you're just gonna cook a little bit of wire though. Heaters are a big trouble area so I started using pre-twisted teflon wire so that I can work in heater areas without worrying so much about cooking PVC wire.

[DonMoose]

Yes have plenty of clips and heat sink devices, just wondering about those bumps into components that are alongside the shaft of the solder pen. Is there a very thin asbestos material or some other material that can be placed on a cap to protect it.

thanks guys

Scraps of PCB material? (unplated)

[rp]

Since I do PTP I'm always deslodeing in tight places and I sadly melt stuff, and I can't stand looking in an amp and seeing that inside. This thread has given me an idea. I'm just going to do what a plumber does to protect the studs when sweating pipes - ie use a wet rag. Next time this comes up I'm going to cut little squares of old T-shirt, get them damp, and drape them over stuff at risk like caps and plastic re'ans. Thanks for the inspiration.

[T Wilcox]

I dont know if introducing moisture into your amp is a good idea!
I try not to even sweat on my build while working on it so no contacts get corroded in the future.
I was originally using a cheap soldering iron on first build and burnt a couple wires cause the whole shaft got hot on that one. Since I got a good one that directs most of the heat right to the tip I havent' burned anything!

Todd

[Dai H.]

I use alu foil (the ordinary sort you use in the kitchen). I picked up this idea long ago from someone at the Plexi Palace bbs(sry I forgot your name!). Just don't forget to take it out when you are done.