Lacquered Tweed?

[The Ballzz]

Hey Folks,
Is lacquered tweed actually done with lacquer, or is it something else? I've heard mention of lacquer, shellac and Min-Wax Poly as well as some other stuff. If truly lacquer, specifically what kind and is there a better way to do it and achieve similar/suitable results?

There are several reasons I'm asking. While I can see how lacquer may be easy to apply and achieve pleasing cosmetic results, lacquer is fairly brittle and prone to cracking and flaking. Poly, on the other hand is, well..... POLY, which has a more plastic like character and is less susceptible to cracking from minor impacts, temperature changes, etc.

Hoping For Opinions,
Gene

[vibratoking]

I've had good luck with orange shellac. Wonderful color, doesn't build up a thick coat that can crack. It's good stuff.

[The Ballzz]

Wow, thanks! What "cut" do you use? Or do you simply buy it premixed in a can? If in a can, what brand? Real shellac can do some marvelous things! I aspire to someday call myself a woodworker, possibly "after" I learn the dark, voodoo magic of finishing! Maybe next lifetime!

Thanks Again,
Gene

[vibratoking]

Wow, thanks! What "cut" do you use? Or do you simply buy it premixed in a can? If in a can, what brand? Real shellac can do some marvelous things! I aspire to someday call myself a woodworker, possibly "after" I learn the dark, voodoo magic of finishing! Maybe next lifetime!

Thanks Again,
Gene

I have made my own in the past, but decided it wasn't worth the effort. I typically just use the Zinsser orange. Shellac is great stuff and it is my favorite finish on almost anything. I just used it to match new hardwood flooring to 20 year old aged floor. Worked perfectly. Also recently matched new cedar tongue and groove to existing 30 year old material. Worked perfectly. It has become my secret weapon.

[The Ballzz]

I'm going to assume that you brush it on? What would your thoughts be on using the Zinsser spray product in several light coats? I've read that with brushing, one needs to be EXTREMELY careful near the all the seams to avoid blotching from the finish "wicking" into the ends of the fabric fibers! Also, is what you used de-waxed?
Thanks Again,
Gene

[vibratoking]

I'm going to assume that you brush it on? What would your thoughts be on using the Zinsser spray product in several light coats? I've read that with brushing, one needs to be EXTREMELY careful near the all the seams to avoid blotching from the finish "wicking" into the ends of the fabric fibers! Also, is what you used de-waxed?
Thanks Again,
Gene

I brush it on. I think you need much more product than you can deliver from a spray can. I believe the Zinsser product is not dewaxed, but I have never noticed any issues related to wax. In my experience, blotching of shellac occurs when it is worked too much. You have to work quickly. Get in and get out before it starts to become sticky. Pushing sticky shellac around creates blotching. It can be resolved on the next coat by working it properly.

All the tweed wicks. Not just the seams, although it happens a bit differently at the seams. It usually appears a bit darker at the seam, but I have never considered it a problem.

It does take a bit of 'workmanship' to brush it properly. You have to be conscious to apply it evenly while working fast. It is possible to make a mess of it. YMMV.

[Structo]

Careful with the orange shellac.

If you apply too much it will really look orange.

You should use the amber and cut it by 50% with denatured alcohol.

Try to sneak up on the color to prevent too much tint.

You can steel wool after a few coats.

Shellac isn't a great final finish due to it's properties, (like not alcohol proof).
But it is a great bonder and can be finished with lacquer.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1-qt ... /100126411

Then for best protection clear coat it with nitrocellulose lacquer.
You can find it in spray cans or brush on.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Deft/N-5yc1v ... all&NCNI-5

I'd do about 4-5 coats.

Then if you don't want a glossy look, use 0000 steel wool to kill the gloss.

[mteresko]

Amber and clear shellac mixed about 50-50, with satin water-based conversion varnish topcoat.
[img854]http://s19.postimg.org/nc6hez2ab/5_E3.jpg[/img]

[The Ballzz]

Wellsir,
That sure looks pretty darned nice! Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll likely do a mix of orange/amber/clear and then top it with some Target EM600, water borne satin lacquer that I have on hand and like to work with in the sprayer. Pics will follow!

Other good news, cabinet and small parts showed up from MojoTone today. Cabinet is very nicely done, even the corner "patches" in the control panel cut-out are some of the most nicely done that I've seen! Now I have all needed for my build and I'll get started sniffin' solder , once I get the garage/wood shop/electronics shop/studio/office cleaned up! 20 pounds of shiite in a 5 pound bag! Sheesh!

Thanx Again All,
Gene

[mteresko]

The shellac can be sprayed also. Thin it out pretty far with alcohol and apply light coats to sneak up on the final tone. Have fun and good luck!

[The Ballzz]

As much as I dislike the gun cleaning, I do love spraying finishes! It seems to produce much more consistent and professional results. How long does that shellac take to get past the "tacky" stage? Dust & nibs tend to be a problem here in the dry desert, but the quick drying of even water borne lacquer helps to avoid the issue. I sure would love to have a dedicated, "filtered" finishing booth! Maybe next lifetime!
Thanx 4 The Input,
Gene

[sluckey]

I like the way Zinsser's Amber shellac looks on tweed. A single coat of Amber usually produces a pleasing tone. If you want darker, just brush on another coat in 30 minutes. Once you are satisfied with the Amber tone, follow up with several coats of clear.

I cut all shellac 50/50 with denatured alcohol. It's about the consistency of water, brushes on easily with a cheap brush, and dries quickly.

Shellac is not a tough finish like polyurethane. I'd never use it on a table top. But it works well on tweed and if you need to spruce it up 5 years down the road, just brush on another coat. The new coat kinda melts into the old coat.

Here are the only tweed cabs I have. I don't recall how many Amber coats are on the darker cab, but the lighter cab only has one amber coat and three cleat coats...

[The Ballzz]

WOW sluckey,
Your point about sprucing up/refreshing down the road is certainly not lost on me! Now, on the other hand, if I went with solvent based lacquer out of a spray can, wouldn't that also provide a similar "melt in" ability for refreshing? Maybe I'm just overthinking this whole deal? And oh yeah, those amps both look fantastic! Does the dark one on the left actually have added reverb or is it just the badge lying to us?
Thanx Again,
Gene

[sluckey]

I know that lacquer melts into a previous coat when applying multiple coats, even if spraying. I really don't know if it has the same melting effect 5 years down the road.

My dark tweed is really a single channel AB763 Deluxe Reverb with no tremolo. It's running 6L6s with bigger iron. That was my first project in 2005 after a 30 year acoustic phase. I mainly wanted to see if I could stuff it into a 5E3 cab.

[Structo]

It can be done later but sometimes things happen.

Usually all that is needed is to clean the top coat nitro lacquer with naphtha but if it is dirty, should be cleaned.

I would also scuff it with 330 or so before spraying.

Remember in just about any finish, multiple light coats are preferable to heavy coats that dry slow, can run or worse.

I suppose you can top coat the shellac with an acrylic lacquer but I have little
to no experience with acrylics.