5E3 Build Questions?

[The Ballzz]

Hi Guys,
I'm prepping for a 5E3 build and looking for advice. So far I have a MojoTone chassis, turret board &
PT) http://www.classictone.net/40-18078.html
OT) http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/amp-t ... jGvYrS737O

Is it worth stressing over specific individual component sourcing or should I just go for the MojoTone small parts kit? Obviously, I won't need the fiber board that comes with the kit, because I'm using a turret board, but the price seems pretty reasonable and it makes sourcing generally painless!

http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/amp-k ... jGw1bS737N

I want the amp to be as close as practical to an original, but I realize getting too anal may just make me go crazy.

Also, it would be great too see some gut shots of successful builds to get a good handle on best practices for lead dress, etc. Also any do's & don'ts tips would be helpful.

I already have a few successful amp builds under my belt, but nothing this seemingly simple. I'm guessing that due to this "simplicity" the finer details become more glaringly important?

I'm planning (so far) to use the original Fender schematic/layout;

http://vintagefenderamprepair.com/wp-co ... ematic.pdf

http://vintagefenderamprepair.com/wp-co ... Layout.pdf

tempered by the Weber layout/schematic for eliminating the ground switch and wiring in a standby instead:

http://www.tedweber.com/media/kits/5e3_layout.jpg

http://www.tedweber.com/media/kits/5e3_schem.jpg

Opinions?
Gene

[pdf64]

Standby (ie switching the HT) is pointless; I perceive that as being a fact, rather than opinion http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/standby.html
On an amp with a tube rectifier it often may act to compromise tube life.
Such a poorly implemented standby as that in the Weber scheme (ie hot switching a capacitive load) seems to verge on stupid or perverse.

I suggest that you make efforts to ensure that the amp's VB+ is well below 400V, ega target of 360Vdc, to keep the 6V6 dissipation under control.

[xtian]

+1 no standby switch. Mute switch if you need one.

[The Ballzz]

I understand and agree with thoughts about the standby. I was simply thinking about what to use the hole in the chassis for! Maybe cap it for now and think about using it for a VVR/power scaling pot in the future, if deemed necessary. Please keep your thoughts coming.
Thanks,
Gene

[pdf64]

If you want to fill that hole, how about a fuse for the B+?
Inserted in the 0V chassis ground return of the B+ CT.
250mA quick blow.

The kit of parts looks fine; only a few bits that you could reasonably wish to swap out if / when you fancy some cork sniffery.

[The Ballzz]

Good thought on the extra fuse!

I was thinking the same about the parts kit. Not real cheap, but by the time I shell out for shipping from a couple/several vendors for individual sourcing the price would go up!

I'm hoping there should be no hidden issues with using a turret board. I hate working with fiber/tag boards! BTDT! Also, if there is enough clearance to the PT, I'll likely use an IEC connector for the AC. Big fan of not having a cord dangling, especially if it ends up being in a head format!

My goal here is to get as close as possible to an original, so I can see what the supposed "magic" is all about. There is certainly no way I could afford to purchase an original and even if I happen to find one in a store, nobody will ever let me crank it to see what it really does! That's why I'm a gonna build one! I figure that even if it's not my "cup 'o' tea" I can likely at least break even by selling a well built clone.

Thanx & Please Keep The Tips Coming,
Gene

[vibratoking]

It's a great amp. I love mine. Build the original, then reduce the bypass caps to get rid of the flub if you like. Make sure you explore the volume control quirks before you decide whether you like it or not. It is not a clean machine. Gets kinda clean, but not squeaky clean. VVR works great in that amp, IMO. I almost always use it to nip volume a bit. So many classic tones. Have fun.

[The Ballzz]

vibratoking,
Yepper, that's what I'm hoping/looking forward to!

Did you "VVR" the whole amp, or just the power section. It would seem odd to do the power tubes and PI, as only one triode is used in the cathodyne PI? On the other hand, I've read about preamp artifacts (such as scratchy pot syndrome) when scaling the whole amp. I would guess scaling just the power tubes would be the best way to go? Given the use of a turret board, maybe it would be a good idea to lay it out to accommodate the splitting of the B+, in case I want to add the VVR later. Decisions, decisions?
Thanks,
Gene

[vibratoking]

I scaled the whole amp. Scaling just the power section is not the way to go IMO. A couple caps will stop the pot scratch. I used Dana's VVR. He has detailed set of instructions in pdf form.

[martin manning]

Tweed chassis are cramped, and using a turret board only makes that worse. I would look carefully at that before committing.

[JazzGuitarGimp]

Tweed chassis are cramped, and using a turret board only makes that worse. I would look carefully at that before committing.

What Martin said: especially near the input jacks. The two lower input jacks sit right over the top of the board. Any turrets there will be problematic.

VVR the whole amp, you won't regret it. You may have to add small cap at the input of each channel to keep DC off the guitar's pots, but it's an easy mod.

The sound of a cranked 5E3 is truly something to behold. Imagine the sound of helplessly careening out of control down a mountainside. It literally sounds like the amp is going to explode into a million bits any second.

I found the volume control interaction to be rather subtle on my build. But once I heard it, I always used it.

[The Ballzz]

Tweed chassis are cramped, and using a turret board only makes that worse. I would look carefully at that before committing.

Wellsir,
I will most assuredly take that under advisement! Once my "small parts kit" arrives, which actually includes a tag board, I'll compare, measure and look at all the 8x10 color glossies before committing. I currently have this board:

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-HTUR-C

"in stock" and I figured with it being a tad shallower (2 5/8" front to rear compared to 3") than the tag board, I could trim the side to side length and tweak/twiddle a bit to allow for the future option of power scaling. I could even likely use the fiber insulator board to allow for minimal (1/4"-3/8") stand-offs to gain clearance at the input jacks. Also figuring that even if I opt out of the power scaling, an extra couple/few unused turrets shouldn't be TOO ugly!
I Truly Appreciate Your Thoughts!
Gene

[The Ballzz]

JazzGuitarGimp,
As a guy who does NOT use foot/stomp/pedal/thingies, "subtle" is not lost on me! We shall see what we shall see. I'll post pics as I go and I'm sure there'll be at least a few more questions!
Thanks Again To All,
Gene

[ToneMerc]

Tweed chassis are cramped, and using a turret board only makes that worse. I would look carefully at that before committing.

Wellsir,
I will most assuredly take that under advisement! Once my "small parts kit" arrives, which actually includes a tag board, I'll compare, measure and look at all the 8x10 color glossies before committing. I currently have this board:

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-HTUR-C

"in stock" and I figured with it being a tad shallower (2 5/8" front to rear compared to 3") than the tag board, I could trim the side to side length and tweak/twiddle a bit to allow for the future option of power scaling. I could even likely use the fiber insulator board to allow for minimal (1/4"-3/8") stand-offs to gain clearance at the input jacks. Also figuring that even if I opt out of the power scaling, an extra couple/few unused turrets shouldn't be TOO ugly!
I Truly Appreciate Your Thoughts!
Gene

Martin is correct, IMHO turret boards don't belong in this chassis style as it makes fitment a nightmare. I can almost guarantee that you will run into vertical clearance issues, especially with any standoff higher .than 250. The lamp assembly and output jacks are other areas where you can run into fitment problems when using a turret board as well.

TM

[The Ballzz]

Oh Yeah, I Forgot,
How critical is the brass plate behind the pots & jacks? The parts kit I'm getting doesn't include it. I can either make it myself or get it from Weber.
Thanks,
Gene