Drilling holes for Faceplate

[ampmike]

Hey Guys,I never traced out my holes when the chassis was bare,So what would be the best method to make those holes after the amp is done.Im almost tempted to get another chassis.Is the rocket chassis the same as the express?Thanx Mikey

[Gibsonman63]

I build my amp before I bought the wood and had the cabinet built. I took my dimensions from plans in the site. I put masking tape on both sides of my faceplate, marked it and mocked it up against the chassis just to make sure nothing was obviously off. Check your amp with a straight edge on the pot shafts. I had a couple that were just a hair off. I didn't leave much room for tolerance at all on my holes and had to file a couple of holes just a bit to make it fit. It would have been much easier to go with the next size bit, but live and learn.

[ampmike]

Ok,I should have at least made a paper template,Ill try doing what you did,I think Ill go a 1/16 bigger on the holes.I dont have any extra wood so I cant screw this up,Thanx Man,Mikey

[M Fowler]

Mikey the TW chassis are all the same size it's just the power section holes that are different for the Express compared to Liverpool/Rocket.

I use the faceplate itself to mark for my holes before I build the amp
and then drill. I have collected round stock or drill stops in various sizes that I put in the 3/8 holes of the face plate which allows me to drill a nice small 5/16 pilot hole. This works every time.

Say I buy a faceplate off a forum member which is already drilled for 1/2 switch holes and 3/8 pot holes these drill guides or bushings I have collected fit into those predrilled holes which allows we to drill pilot holes and not mare up the predrilled 3/8 and 1/2 face plate holes. Don't know if that make any sense.

It would be easier to just print at 100% and tape that onto the chassis I guess, but I very rarily do that.

Mark

[Gibsonman63]

You could always try a piece of scrap before you do the real thing, then you will have a template you can trace to the real one. The guy that built my cabinet matched the grain as it wrapped around, so I couldn't afford to screw it up either. I ended up spending two and a half hours with all the double-checking... and second guessing.

[gearhead]

Mikey the TW chassis are all the same size it's just the power section holes that are different for the Express compared to Liverpool/Rocket.

Actually need to be careful to avoid a hole-for-hole rocket chassis. It's got one less pot than express/liverpool. Get a Liverpool chassis for drill guide and then just don't use one of the holes for a rocket build.

[ampmike]

Thank Guys,This is a great foremn!!!!!Mikey

[Zippy]

Actually need to be careful to avoid a hole-for-hole rocket chassis. It's got one less pot than express/liverpool. Get a Liverpool chassis for drill guide and then just don't use one of the holes for a rocket build.

Or add the missing MID control...

[M Fowler]

I guess that one less hole depends on whom you got the chassis from.

The Rocket uses the same chassis as the Liverpool with the extra pot hole and you have to punch or drill your rectifier hole for allynmey's chassis.

rjguitar has specially made chassis for each type.

I have made enough TWs to know the difference.

[gearhead]

You are indeed one of the pre-eminent and much respected Trainwreck builders, Master Fowler

I most humbly call attention to this passage in your last missive:

I guess that one less hole depends on whom you got the chassis from.

Yeah, for this is the very reason I cautioned the reader to "avoid a hole-for-hole rocket chassis" if your desire is to use the chassis as a drill guide for an Express.
. . . . .

Actually, I ooh-booed. There is a 2-hole difference between the Express and Rocket; the later also has no bright switch.

From what I can see, you have to do drilling/punching no matter which way you go if you want to use the same chassis for both purposes.

[M Fowler]

Allynmey is the master builder I am but a humble hobbist learning every day.

What a great forum this is.