Hey Guys,My deluxe is week sounding,pretty much in and out with vol.
I checked all the tubes,they are good.I bought new caps,Am I on the right path?Ive got in and out signal and low vol to no sound.Should I change all the filter caps first ,Mikey
Fender silverface deluxe reverb
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Gibsonman63
- Posts: 1033
- Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 1:59 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: Fender silverface deluxe reverb
If it was my amp, I would change them. Don't forget the bias cap and the cathode bypass capacitors while you are in there.
Reflow any suspect solder joints, clean out the pots and tube sockets, retension the tube sockets, put it back together and fire it up.
Also change out the power cord if it isn't already a three prong. More than likely it is unless you have a really early one.
It will save you a lot of grief down the road by doing all the maintenance at once.
Don't forget to keep the old parts. The cork sniffers like to see the caps in the cardboard tubes if you ever sell it.
Reflow any suspect solder joints, clean out the pots and tube sockets, retension the tube sockets, put it back together and fire it up.
Also change out the power cord if it isn't already a three prong. More than likely it is unless you have a really early one.
It will save you a lot of grief down the road by doing all the maintenance at once.
Don't forget to keep the old parts. The cork sniffers like to see the caps in the cardboard tubes if you ever sell it.
Thanx
Hey Thanks,Ill let you know how I make out,Mikey
Re: Fender silverface deluxe reverb
clean the tube sockets while you are in it.
If you are using the reverb also test the tank.
the caps should fix the issue.
If you are using the reverb also test the tank.
the caps should fix the issue.
My Daughter Build Stone Henge
Re: Fender silverface deluxe reverb
Holy crap you are going to be busy for the next few weeks Mike.
Mark
Mark,I got some real nice mohogony for the express today for 50 bucks,I want to finish up all my projects before I jump into the rocket!!Thanks Bro,Mikey
Re: Fender silverface deluxe reverb
Mikey I got busy and didn't reply to this right away.
You need to get out in the wood shop Mikey and build that mahogany TW Rocket head cabinet your amp needs a nice home!
Are you able to bandsaw your own faceplate?
I want to get a 17 inch bandsaw to be able to resaw some old wood. The more figuring the wood has the better I like it. Worm holes, bullets holes, and all. Need metal detector wand. My little black & decker bandsaw can't do much but I fine tuned it enough my deflection is better, but I need to upgrade.
Mark
You need to get out in the wood shop Mikey and build that mahogany TW Rocket head cabinet your amp needs a nice home!
Are you able to bandsaw your own faceplate?
I want to get a 17 inch bandsaw to be able to resaw some old wood. The more figuring the wood has the better I like it. Worm holes, bullets holes, and all. Need metal detector wand. My little black & decker bandsaw can't do much but I fine tuned it enough my deflection is better, but I need to upgrade.
Mark
Cab
Well my express cab is almost ready for a finish,Id like to stain the mohagony dark and then get a hard clear coat of something.Nice glossy finish,any sugestions?Thanx Mikey
Re: Fender silverface deluxe reverb
Have you ever tried Birchwood Casey Tru Oil?
It's a gun stock finish that works great on guitar necks.
I've used it for years on gunstocks and guitars.
It really isn't an oil. It is a type of varnish that gets hard when it dries.
I think they call it an oil because it is made with linseed oil.
It is a pretty rugged finish as many gunstocks exposed to the elements can testify.
G & L Guitars have been using a similar product for years.
Anyway, you can find it anywhere they sell gun supplies.
Look where they sell the cleaning supplies and other accessories.
A 3 oz. bottle will be fine and do a huge area.
I'll bet I could finish 25 necks with a 3 oz. bottle.
What I do is apply it with my fingers so that the heat and friction help rub it into the wood.
Make sure the wood is sanded up to 320 or so and that the stain or dye is good and dry.
Wipe any sanding dust or debris off of the surface.
You want to apply thin coats for the best results.
Thick coats will take a long time to dry and won't work nearly as good.
The first coat will absorb into the wood and not look very good.
But you build it up with successive coats.
Give the first couple coats a couple hours between coats.
The smell isn't too bad and I do necks right on the dining room table.
But a large item like a head cab may be a bit much, especially if you are married.
On successive coats, be sure the surface is dry to the touch, not tacky.
Usually by the 6th coat things are looking very good.
After about the third or so coat, let it dry overnight. Then the next day buff it a bit with # 0000 steel wool. Knock down any runs or other stuff you don't like.
Wipe it off well and continue with your coasts.
I like to steel wool after about every 3 coats.
On a cab like that I would probably go with 9 coats.
You can buff it for a satin look or you can even wet sand and polish it just like lacquer. Just make sure you have enough on there and that it is very dry.
For a quick shiny look I buff with steel wool lightly then take a piece of old denim and burnish the surface with rapid strokes. It will heat up and come to a nice sheen.
Can you tell I like this stuff?
You could use nitro lacquer or acrylic lacquer but you will have long curing times to do it properly and an area to spray in.
You have to wear a respirator with that stuff too.
Tru Oil can be done just about anywhere and is pretty fool proof.
It looks like this.
[img:300:384]http://www.kingdomarms.com/store/images ... Finish.jpg[/img]
A trick I learned was, the bottle has a foil seal on top.
Poke a hole in that with a toothpick. This will allow you to place the small amounts needed when rubbing it in.
Then when you are done for the moment, wipe the top off, screw the lid on tightly and then turn the bottle upside down.
This prevents a skin from forming on top of the oil and helps extend the bottle life of it.
Anyway, hope this helps.
Tom
It's a gun stock finish that works great on guitar necks.
I've used it for years on gunstocks and guitars.
It really isn't an oil. It is a type of varnish that gets hard when it dries.
I think they call it an oil because it is made with linseed oil.
It is a pretty rugged finish as many gunstocks exposed to the elements can testify.
G & L Guitars have been using a similar product for years.
Anyway, you can find it anywhere they sell gun supplies.
Look where they sell the cleaning supplies and other accessories.
A 3 oz. bottle will be fine and do a huge area.
I'll bet I could finish 25 necks with a 3 oz. bottle.
What I do is apply it with my fingers so that the heat and friction help rub it into the wood.
Make sure the wood is sanded up to 320 or so and that the stain or dye is good and dry.
Wipe any sanding dust or debris off of the surface.
You want to apply thin coats for the best results.
Thick coats will take a long time to dry and won't work nearly as good.
The first coat will absorb into the wood and not look very good.
But you build it up with successive coats.
Give the first couple coats a couple hours between coats.
The smell isn't too bad and I do necks right on the dining room table.
But a large item like a head cab may be a bit much, especially if you are married.
On successive coats, be sure the surface is dry to the touch, not tacky.
Usually by the 6th coat things are looking very good.
After about the third or so coat, let it dry overnight. Then the next day buff it a bit with # 0000 steel wool. Knock down any runs or other stuff you don't like.
Wipe it off well and continue with your coasts.
I like to steel wool after about every 3 coats.
On a cab like that I would probably go with 9 coats.
You can buff it for a satin look or you can even wet sand and polish it just like lacquer. Just make sure you have enough on there and that it is very dry.
For a quick shiny look I buff with steel wool lightly then take a piece of old denim and burnish the surface with rapid strokes. It will heat up and come to a nice sheen.
Can you tell I like this stuff?
You could use nitro lacquer or acrylic lacquer but you will have long curing times to do it properly and an area to spray in.
You have to wear a respirator with that stuff too.
Tru Oil can be done just about anywhere and is pretty fool proof.
It looks like this.
[img:300:384]http://www.kingdomarms.com/store/images ... Finish.jpg[/img]
A trick I learned was, the bottle has a foil seal on top.
Poke a hole in that with a toothpick. This will allow you to place the small amounts needed when rubbing it in.
Then when you are done for the moment, wipe the top off, screw the lid on tightly and then turn the bottle upside down.
This prevents a skin from forming on top of the oil and helps extend the bottle life of it.
Anyway, hope this helps.
Tom
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Thanx
Wow!!!Thats the stuff,Thank you Tom for all the info,Im on it,Thanks again,Im set on that stuff,Ill get you some pics and show you my progress.
Thanks again for the help,Mikey
Thanks again for the help,Mikey
Re: Fender silverface deluxe reverb
If you have any questions about doing it feel free to PM me.
But it's really quite simply the easiest finish to do and looks great and is durable.
Remember, one of the tricks is to apply thin coats and always go with the grain.
Watch out for runs, this can happen around corners and the bottom edge of what you are finishing.
But it's really quite simply the easiest finish to do and looks great and is durable.
Remember, one of the tricks is to apply thin coats and always go with the grain.
Watch out for runs, this can happen around corners and the bottom edge of what you are finishing.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Fender silverface deluxe reverb
I have done gun stocks with that tru-oil since I was a kid works very well.
Blue the gun barrel and your set. Oh wait we were talking amps
Blue the gun barrel and your set. Oh wait we were talking amps