5E3 builds w. verb any

[angelodp]

Hi, I am working on elements for a 5E3 build and wondering if any here have done so with reverb added, or are you using a stand alone verb box. Better yet a plan for a reverb ala fender tube type.

ange

[Structo]

Hmmm, maybe you should have built a Deluxe Reverb, eh?

Not sure it's feasible since most the reverb amps use a LTP PI.

There is the one tube reverb plans floating around here someplace.

I found this in my files. You will want to make sure your PT is up to the task.
The reverb layout was from a thread about adding it to the Dumble.

I had these notes along with it:

By the by, there is one additional component that can be added that really helps the one tube circuit.

Add a 0.1uf 630V cap to ground at the junction of R10 and the transformer. This increases the gain of the reverb drive by putting the top of the primary at AC ground.

I used 4k7 for R10 and added a 22µ to gnd instead of the 0.1 630V. B+ for the reverb recovery is derived from this node via a 22k/22µ.

Is the first 22µ already overkill?

Really depends what is feeding the first 22uf cap.

I used to derive my reverb supply from the screen supply via a 27K resistor. I tried both a 10uf and the .1uf. Sonically I could not hear a difference. The .1uf was easier to implement so it was a logical choice .

The key is to get the supply side of the tranny to AC ground.

[Structo]

Then of course the stand alone version.

http://www.schematicheaven.com/fenderam ... _schem.pdf

And the CBS version

http://www.schematicheaven.com/fenderam ... _schem.pdf

[10thTx]

I have not done a Deluxe 5E3 with reverb. But I did build a Carolina Blues Special with reverb and the topologies have some similarities although not the same. I thought the reverb sounded good to me. It's NOT in the surf intensity though.

If you need more verb use a 10uf or 22uf on the reverb 12AX7 pin 3 cathode and a 2.2M reverb pot instead of 1M.

You could consider building a 5E3 with reverb like this inserted and report back how it sounds. Compare the layout with an original 5E3 schematic and the 5E3-R schematic. Check for errors.

With respect, 10thtx

[angelodp]

Could a 5E3 be built in an aluminum chassis?? Any draw backs to that material for this circuit?? May try to make my own chassis.

Ange

[tubeswell]

I did a 5E3 in an Ally chassis last year and it turned out fantastic - (Ally is a better conductor than stainless steel, so it it easier to get the ground quiet IMHO).

FWIW I am working on a tweed bassman with 6G15/BF hybrid 3 tube reverb at the mo'. I haven't finished the build yet, but in theory there's no reason why it might not feasibly work with a 5E3 (allowing for the extra .9A current draw needed from the heater winding)

Hoffman has a reverb for a bassman which could similarly be used with a 5E3. Then there is the d-lite style 1-tube verb which lots of people have used in a heap of amps (which one of the other posters has already put up I see). This isn't as deep sounding as a BF style reverb, and surf music is not really obtainable, but then its a lot easier to implement

[angelodp]

Nice, any chance you can post that Ally chassis build. Would you happen to have a layout for this 5F6A circuit.

thanks Ange

[tubeswell]

Scratch-built 5e3 for 6V6 or 6L6 with switchable choke-resistor filter

(Excuse the home-brewed look - I make everything in my garage

[tubeswell]

I might yet alter this a tiny wee bit - excuse the rude drawing

[M Fowler]

There is also this one.

[angelodp]

Very nice build. So you make it all, super. On the chassis you go from scratch, can you give us a little narrative on how that proceeds for the raw material. I'll bet that sounds great, have you any clips posted yet.

thanks Ange

[tubeswell]

On the chassis you go from scratch, can you give us a little narrative on how that proceeds for the raw material. I'll bet that sounds great, have you any clips posted yet.

thanks Ange

Mark out the fold lines and the drilling marker dots (for the pilot holes). Nail punch the marker dots (on a flat hard steel bench surface) with a sharp ended punch

Drill the pilot holes

Fold the main sheet

Make and fit the end caps and rivet them in (knock out the rivet cores so they don't rattle)

Punch the big holes.

Engrave the chassis

I use 16 gauge Ally with the finished side coated in industrial grade durafilm, which I don't remove until I am tightening the nuts on the last of the pots etc. This keeps the outside surface scratch-free

[angelodp]

Thanks, so the end caps are separate and simply get riveted in. Do I have to have access to a sheet metal folder or can you suggest a DIY method for the folding

best A

[Structo]

Ange, when I converted a Hammond organ amp to a guitar amp I decided to shorten the chassis.
Hammond riveted the corner tabs of the ends to the chassis.

This chassis has very strong steel. I don't know the gauge but it was difficult to cut with tin snips.

So I cut it then used some duck billed vise grip like pliers to bend the steel.
Worked ok but that steel was very hard to bend.

Once I had it bent correctly I drilled through the tabs and pop riveted them in place.

[IMG:800:600]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b392/ ... G_0003.jpg[/img]

I don't think I would do this to make a chassis from scratch.
There are too many blank chassis available that you can simply drill or punch holes in for the correct topology for the amp you are building.

For example there was a guy on ebay selling 18 watt sized blanks for $25.

[angelodp]

Tom very inventive, are there more pics about of that conversion of yours.
I am working on the cab right now. Went over to a friends house that has a very old one and documented the little critter, damn they are tiny. I had forgotten how small they are for so much tone. I am thinking like you that a blank chassis might be the trick, although I am also trying to see if I can bend one up gorilla style.

cheers ange