What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
I finally ran out of my 1lb roll of solder yesterday.
I went to my local parts house and they were out of what I normally use.
I have been using Kester 60/40 rosin core .031 dia. for several years.
They had three or four other types of Kester.
The lead free type (gag) and one called no clean @ $30 for a pound roll.
The others were all .050 dia. and don't care for that.
I have never heard of the no clean kind. While it would be nice not to have the flux left after soldering, I was a bit leery of buying it because I didn't want to get it then not like it for $30.
What say you?
			
			
									
									I went to my local parts house and they were out of what I normally use.
I have been using Kester 60/40 rosin core .031 dia. for several years.
They had three or four other types of Kester.
The lead free type (gag) and one called no clean @ $30 for a pound roll.
The others were all .050 dia. and don't care for that.
I have never heard of the no clean kind. While it would be nice not to have the flux left after soldering, I was a bit leery of buying it because I didn't want to get it then not like it for $30.
What say you?
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
						Don't let that smoke out!
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
I know some will think I am crazy, but. I use Cardas Quad eutectic. It is expensive but worth it.  I cringe when ever I have to use regular solders any more.  The Lead free stuff SUCKS.  Radio shack electronic brand is as good as any of the regular solders.
			
			
									
									
						Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
So is the Cardas Quad eutectic solder is tin/lead/silver/copper.
But very very expensive, no?
Yep, $105 / lb.
			
			
									
									But very very expensive, no?
Yep, $105 / lb.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
						Don't let that smoke out!
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
I get it from Parts Connexion, a one lb roll is about $45, they do sell 100g pieces. 
http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/s ... eaner.html
Don't get the Tri Eutectic, it's lead free and hard to use, higher temp too.
One thing about Eutectic solders is the liquid state is a very narrow temperature. In other words they solidify more quickly than regular 60/40 or other blends.
			
			
									
									
						http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/s ... eaner.html
Don't get the Tri Eutectic, it's lead free and hard to use, higher temp too.
One thing about Eutectic solders is the liquid state is a very narrow temperature. In other words they solidify more quickly than regular 60/40 or other blends.
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
Yes I read that description about it from Mr. Cardas.
Interesting, I guess I never gave it much thought and always used the 60/40 stuff.
It makes sense what he said about the two metals setting up at different temperatures and that the actual connection isn't that great.
Probably why when they teach soldering to always make a good mechanical connection first.
			
			
													Interesting, I guess I never gave it much thought and always used the 60/40 stuff.
It makes sense what he said about the two metals setting up at different temperatures and that the actual connection isn't that great.
Probably why when they teach soldering to always make a good mechanical connection first.
					Last edited by Structo on Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
									
			
									Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
						Don't let that smoke out!
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
I say stick with what you know. That's a perfectly good solder and has worked well for decades.Structo wrote:I finally ran out of my 1lb roll of solder yesterday.
I went to my local parts house and they were out of what I normally use.
I have been using Kester 60/40 rosin core .031 dia. for several years.
They had three or four other types of Kester.
The lead free type (gag) and one called no clean @ $30 for a pound roll.
The others were all .050 dia. and don't care for that.
I have never heard of the no clean kind. While it would be nice not to have the flux left after soldering, I was a bit leery of buying it because I didn't want to get it then not like it for $30.
What say you?
If you ever work on old stuff, or with old parts, the rosin core is more aggressive than no-clean.
- 
				francois2000
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 5:37 am
- Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
I use the Kester 63% tin and 37% lead rosin core. This solder is also eutectic, but it has a regular price.
Look here in the section "Solders"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
François
			
			
									
									
						Look here in the section "Solders"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
François
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
Never heard of the word "eutectic" before this used in conjunction with solder.
So this is what Wiki says about it.
The term is often used in metallurgy to describe the alloy of two or more component materials having the relative concentrations specified at the eutectic point. When a non-eutectic alloy freezes, one component of the alloy crystallizes at one temperature and the other at a different temperature. With a eutectic alloy, the mixture freezes as one at a single temperature. A eutectic alloy therefore has a sharp melting point, and a non-eutectic alloy exhibits a plastic melting range. The phase transformations that occur while freezing a given alloy can be understood using the phase diagram by drawing a vertical line from the liquid phase to the solid phase on a phase diagram; each point along the line describes the composition at a given temperature.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eutectic
And this:
When an alloy is heated it typically goes thorough multiple phases. It goes from a solid state to what is known as a pasty stage, sort of halfway between a liquid and a solid, and then to a liquid state. In soldering it is difficult to work with a substance that goes through a pasty stage. Eutectic solder is often used for this reason. A eutectic alloy is one that goes directly from a solid state to a liquid state without a pasty stage. The eutectic tin-lead alloy is made up of 63% tin and 37% lead. Eutectic tin-lead solder can be applied as a liquid just above the melting point, and then as it cools it will transform directly into a solid.
So it sounds good, I'll have to get some and try it.
I have wondered before why most of my solder joints looked kind of dull instead of nice and shiny. I thought it was just the way my solder was. Well it is, but the eutectic solder sounds like a much higher quality solder and should make a better connection.
			
			
									
									So this is what Wiki says about it.
The term is often used in metallurgy to describe the alloy of two or more component materials having the relative concentrations specified at the eutectic point. When a non-eutectic alloy freezes, one component of the alloy crystallizes at one temperature and the other at a different temperature. With a eutectic alloy, the mixture freezes as one at a single temperature. A eutectic alloy therefore has a sharp melting point, and a non-eutectic alloy exhibits a plastic melting range. The phase transformations that occur while freezing a given alloy can be understood using the phase diagram by drawing a vertical line from the liquid phase to the solid phase on a phase diagram; each point along the line describes the composition at a given temperature.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eutectic
And this:
When an alloy is heated it typically goes thorough multiple phases. It goes from a solid state to what is known as a pasty stage, sort of halfway between a liquid and a solid, and then to a liquid state. In soldering it is difficult to work with a substance that goes through a pasty stage. Eutectic solder is often used for this reason. A eutectic alloy is one that goes directly from a solid state to a liquid state without a pasty stage. The eutectic tin-lead alloy is made up of 63% tin and 37% lead. Eutectic tin-lead solder can be applied as a liquid just above the melting point, and then as it cools it will transform directly into a solid.
So it sounds good, I'll have to get some and try it.
I have wondered before why most of my solder joints looked kind of dull instead of nice and shiny. I thought it was just the way my solder was. Well it is, but the eutectic solder sounds like a much higher quality solder and should make a better connection.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
						Don't let that smoke out!
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
And Don't forget the Wetting properties. The Reason for the silver and copper is to blend better with those metals forming a better solder joint.
			
			
									
									
						Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
Just curious....
Isn't Kester 44 either 60/40 or 63/37 .031 rosin core available
anymore....
Steve @ Apex Jr.
			
			
									
									
						Isn't Kester 44 either 60/40 or 63/37 .031 rosin core available
anymore....
Steve @ Apex Jr.
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
Yes it is.
I had been using the 60/40 rosin .031 1lb spool but ran out the other day.
When I went to the place to get more they were out of that but had two or three other Kester spools that had different specs.
Like "No Clean" and some other I can't remember.
Funny when you are used to using one product, you don't even realize there is more kinds out there.
The myriads of solder out there is very confusing, add the lead-free solder and it's even more so.
The Cardas eutectic solder sounds like good stuff to use and I will definitely get some.
The standard rosin core lead/tin solder apparently has problems because one component sets before the other does due to the freezing points of each.
This can lead to a poor conductive joint.
The eutectic solder sets up all at once providing a shiny superior connection.
			
			
									
									I had been using the 60/40 rosin .031 1lb spool but ran out the other day.
When I went to the place to get more they were out of that but had two or three other Kester spools that had different specs.
Like "No Clean" and some other I can't remember.
Funny when you are used to using one product, you don't even realize there is more kinds out there.
The myriads of solder out there is very confusing, add the lead-free solder and it's even more so.
The Cardas eutectic solder sounds like good stuff to use and I will definitely get some.
The standard rosin core lead/tin solder apparently has problems because one component sets before the other does due to the freezing points of each.
This can lead to a poor conductive joint.
The eutectic solder sets up all at once providing a shiny superior connection.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
						Don't let that smoke out!
- Ron Worley
- Posts: 908
- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:21 pm
- Location: Keller, TX
Re: What Type or Brand Solder Do You Use?
This is what I use as well, it's great stuff.... RoHs my ass!!francois2000 wrote:I use the Kester 63% tin and 37% lead rosin core. This solder is also eutectic, but it has a regular price.
Look here in the section "Solders"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
François
Ron
						

