Chassis Mounting, please suggest options...

[FunkyE9th]

I am working on my next build and need to improve the way I mount the chassis onto the cabinet. I use those 12x8x2 aluminum chassis from AES. It's 0.04' thick and has about 3/8" room for a mounting screws. I'm using 8-32 srews right now, without any special nut attached to the chassis, just holes. It works, but I'm concerned about how long it will last. I also tried putting threads on one hole, just to test. It works, but again, how long will it last.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I only have 3/8" of room to work with, so it's very limiting.

Here's a pic of the chassis...[IMG:800:600]http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e56/F ... G_1509.jpg[/img]

Thanks,

-FunkyE9th

[Andy Le Blanc]

aluminium ...... the alloy used in chassis is soft.....assume that it wont hold a thread
so...... there are cage nuts...... but youll need a press to punch the square hole
there are clips... they work and you should be able to find locally at a hardware store
or a bolt thru the chassis..... like fender.... you can plan ahead with this when
you fab a cabinet and recess the bolts head... hide it...... this is a bit more practical
but it depends on what you find is good for your build....
I like the over kill of a bolt thru........
you can also make the chassis part of the cabinet... structural..... then bolt a top.... or bottom to it.....

[FunkyE9th]

I was looking at those cage nuts (I think you mean this... http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/store ... egory=Nuts), but they are too big. The smallest one I could find requires 3/8" square hole. I don't have that kind of space. I only have 3/8" of space. Ande like you said I need a way to create a square hole. Don't have that capability either.

I'm not sure I understand the bolt suggestion. How would the bolt attach to the chassis? I would need a nut attached to the chassis, right? How do I go about doing that with the 3/8" space I have?

[candh]

Just go with long thru bolts with star washers to lock the nuts down.

[skyboltone]

Riv-nuts are my choice for easy application. You do need to invest in about $50 worth of tool though. With the cage nuts, if you are patient you can start with a round hole and square it up with a cheap set of jewelers files. No worse than the dang iec 120V input gizmos.

[Andy Le Blanc]

the bolt attachment is a bolt thru the entire chassis and cabinet
so.... the bolts go in one side of the cabinet and all the way thru the chassis
on the other side....... the rub with this is you need the plan way ahead so
that theres enough space around trannys to reach in side the cab to attach
the nuts....... if you dont it can be a pain......

there clips....... they slide over the edge of the chassis and go around the hole
there made of steel and provide a more secure thread for mounting screws
these might be the way if your already in procces..... enlarge the holes in the
chassis just a bit and push on the clips..... they have a flush side
Ive seen them in many applications..... appliances... auto shouldnt be too
hard to find

[Lonely Raven]

Here are the clips that I believe Andy and others are talking about:

[img:400:760]http://derfotohof.net/autos/wrx/Rally_A ... _clips.jpg[/img]

It's just an image I found with a quick google and not a source to get them from. Just a visual example.

I know it'a a little on the ghettofab side, but what about Epoxy the nuts to the inside of the chassis?

[JBurnett]

"I know it'a a little on the ghettofab side, but what about Epoxy the nuts to the inside of the chassis?"

Probably not a good way to go, if the bond breaks, the nut just sits there spinning in chassis while your trying to remove it.

Id go the rivnut route as well, its something I work with everyday and lasts a lifetime.

Heres the tool, go with a quality one, a bad pull will ruin your day and possibly your work.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PM ... 3&PMT4NO=0

Here are the rivnuts, again, go quality here to prevent problems. Always go for the "keyed" type, you have to file a tiny notch on the side of the hole after you drill for install but its not big deal.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/h ... ivnuts.php

[ic-racer]

Here are the clips that I believe Andy and others are talking about:

It's just an image I found with a quick google and not a source to get them from. Just a visual example.

I know it'a a little on the ghettofab side, but what about Epoxy the nuts to the inside of the chassis?

Just as a curious note, the Fender Super Twin uses 4 of these style nuts to hold its chassis. That amp is one of the heaviest guitar amp to hang from the top of a cabinet.

[jjman]

I used the clipnut things recently. Problem was the edge of the chassis is pretty short so I had to grind the length of the clips a little. The ones I used only have one thread of meat to them so over tightening is a no-no. If you are mounting onto a shield/cover, make sure the clips don't prevent all continuity between the chassis and the shield cover.

[FunkyE9th]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Right now, I'm leaning towards the rivnuts.

[morcey2]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Right now, I'm leaning towards the rivnuts.

That's what I use also. (That, and industrial strength velcro occasionally) Call around to some sheet-metal places. I've found one or two here that do rivnuts for not too much. I had them do one chassis then bought my own rivnutter just to save time.

Matt

[Ears]

Thanks to all for this thread

[FunkyE9th]

Went and bought this rivet tool for $15. I know it's cheap, but I figured it's worth a try. It came with rivets. Worked great.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=1210

[davent]

I bolted a piece angled aluminum to each end of the chassis then put bolts through the wings into threaded inserts installed in the base of the cabinet. (A Marshall style cab with space between the ends of the cab and the ends of the chassis.)

dave