I didn't get any traction tacking this on to another thread so it gets its own. I'm doing a ground-up restoration on a Gemini II. Since a number of the board components are out of spec or otherwise suspect, I'll just shotgun the board with new parts. This is a late '60's model and has mostly WIMAs for 0.1s and CD greenies for the .047s.
Does anybody have any recommendations for couplers that get me closest to the originals?
Thanks, Skip
Ampeg coupling caps
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Luthierwnc
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Cliff Schecht
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Re: Ampeg coupling caps
Film caps.
Seriously though if you want to try to match what was in there maybe go with Sozo. I just use Mallory 150's and other sub $1 caps if I don't have anything boutiquey left in my bins.
Seriously though if you want to try to match what was in there maybe go with Sozo. I just use Mallory 150's and other sub $1 caps if I don't have anything boutiquey left in my bins.
Cliff Schecht - Circuit P.I.
Re: Ampeg coupling caps
I used Mallory 150's when I rebuilt my Gemini VI a few years ago. sounded great after it was completed.
A word of caution Ampeg Iron is marginally rated. out of the four Ampegs I have owned only one had both factory transformers. Additionally do not go heavy on the bias I always found 55-65% plate Dissipation worked best on these amps.
A word of caution Ampeg Iron is marginally rated. out of the four Ampegs I have owned only one had both factory transformers. Additionally do not go heavy on the bias I always found 55-65% plate Dissipation worked best on these amps.
Re: Ampeg coupling caps
You can buy Wima caps from Mouser. I don't know if they are the right kind and they are for PC mount. I used some quite a while back by extending the leads. I have them in an Express deviant.
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Luthierwnc
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Re: Ampeg coupling caps
Thanks gents,
I have looked at both the current WIMAs and 150s as well as the Mojo Dijons. I was also considering Orange Drops but thought those might be a little too tight for a 1960's vintage tone. They are great in "D" builds but I've always thought a bit too focused (for lack of a better term) in older Fenders. I might use them or MPPs for the inverter caps though.
The board on this is a 2" fiber board with the eyelets spaced every 9ish millimeters. There is a 1/2 X 3/4" piece of pine directly under the center to give it some backbone. It is strategically notched to slip coax runs through. Almost every signal wire is shielded. Tonight I punched a 2" piece of 1/8" garolite to replace it and will probably hack-butcher a couple extra mounting holes to use hex spacers. Fortunately the pots are still servicable because finding 4 meggers with switches would be a stretch.
I am a little concerned about the power transformer. I got almost 740 VCT HV out of the wall. Loading may bring that down but that is still a lot of volts for commie 7591s.
Cheers, sh
I have looked at both the current WIMAs and 150s as well as the Mojo Dijons. I was also considering Orange Drops but thought those might be a little too tight for a 1960's vintage tone. They are great in "D" builds but I've always thought a bit too focused (for lack of a better term) in older Fenders. I might use them or MPPs for the inverter caps though.
The board on this is a 2" fiber board with the eyelets spaced every 9ish millimeters. There is a 1/2 X 3/4" piece of pine directly under the center to give it some backbone. It is strategically notched to slip coax runs through. Almost every signal wire is shielded. Tonight I punched a 2" piece of 1/8" garolite to replace it and will probably hack-butcher a couple extra mounting holes to use hex spacers. Fortunately the pots are still servicable because finding 4 meggers with switches would be a stretch.
I am a little concerned about the power transformer. I got almost 740 VCT HV out of the wall. Loading may bring that down but that is still a lot of volts for commie 7591s.
Cheers, sh