Wiring A Lighted Switch

[rp]

I know this makes me look dumb, but w/ amps I'm usually a meaty Carling/Eaton guy, but before I blow this wimpy little plastic dingdong up I just want to be sure:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 2B2-02R-EV

I tested the 3 poles and the middle and one end are the switch, so I assume the wall AC goes to the 2 outer poles with the switch off the middle pole and this will light up and all will be good, right?

More importantly, I will one day need it to do 220V. It says, molded into it:

16A 125AC & 10A 250VAC
10A 28VDC & 6A 14VT

and there is an extra little sticker on it that says 100-125V. Hopefully this isn't negating the 250V rating?

Am I good to go, even though it's so dinky it looks barely adequate for a flashlight?

[selloutrr]

is the switch labeled for "ON" / "OFF" if so get out your DVM and test continuity that should answer which lug is which. One should break the signal flow between the two lugs the other should be ground for the LED/bulb.

It looks like lug 2 is constant and makes contact with lug 1 - when switched I would think if you wired your number 2 lug to ground it would short out the circuit.

I'm viewing the diagram as Lug 1 and Lug 2 are your Power and 3 when switched is the ground for the LED/Bulb.

[ampgeek]

I haven't used that exact switch but it looks nearly identical to the Mountain types that I have used in dozen of amps.

The light is in parallel with the load. The switch makes and breaks AC to the load. So....constant AC comes in on pole 2 and your load is connected to pole 1. The other end of the load ties up to your AC supply neutral to complete it's circuit. Then...another neutral line is brought to pole 3 so that it's circut is completed when the switch is activated.

The extra "100V-120V" moniker is troubling. I would interpret that to mean that the LED wants to see that voltage range.

Good luck!
Dave O.

[rp]

With my meter 1 & 2 (middle) are the switch.

So like this?

They are cheap, I should have ordered a 1/2 dozen, so I can blow them up real good!

[rp]

The extra "100V-120V" moniker is troubling. I would interpret that to mean that the LED wants to see that voltage range.

Good luck!
Dave O.

It is troubling, despite the 1/2 dozen IEC approval symbols embossed all over it. WTF and how do you say 'oops' in Chinese? Guess I'll find out the truth in Europe one day when it shoots out of the chassis!

[ampgeek]

Bingo!!
That is how I would do it.
Let us know how it works!
Dave O.

[martin manning]

There's a data sheet available at the Mouser link:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-101101.pdf

[Structo]

That has a neon bulb in it so it takes 120vac for the light.

But that is an odd way to do it.

[martin manning]

I'd say hot to fuse to terminal 1, terminal 2 to PT primary, terminal 3 to neutral.

[ampgeek]

I will guess that the IEC rating is specifically referring to the rating of the switch and that the LED voltage is an option that varies depending on where that run of manufactured switches is being sent.

I just noticed that your circuit diagram includes a resistor upstream of the LED. Increasing that resistor's value would allow connection to a higher voltage while still maintaining the right range for the LED.

Hopefully someone more experienced in industrial electronics will share their knowledge on how that all works with regard to IEC and large scale manufacturing.

Dave O.

P.S. How bizarre!! We have exactly the same number of posts on this forum! Looks like I ought to buy an lottery ticket tonight!!

[rp]

There's a data sheet available at the Mouser link:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-101101.pdf

That solves it! I missed that one but had I gotten it wrong it would just have been light always on rather than smoke. Now if I can just be sure of the 220V thing. Maybe I should just take the sticker off!

[rp]

I will guess that the IEC rating is specifically referring to the rating of the switch and that the LED voltage is an option that varies depending on where that run of manufactured switches is being sent.

A lot of good that does me, If it blows up I got to find an exact replacement, this is going to be a 5C1 as a hifi chassis show-off piece, Al with cherry sides - no cage, no head. Fairly expensive custom chassis that now has a .80 hole in the front for a round switch.

I just noticed that your circuit diagram includes a resistor upstream of the LED. Increasing that resistor's value would allow connection to a higher voltage while still maintaining the right range for the LED.

Hopefully someone more experienced in industrial electronics will share their knowledge on how that all works with regard to IEC and large scale manufacturing.

I hope so too, but I fear the soundness of your logic. There is no way to change the resistor. I will email Mouser tech and see what they say, then search Farnell Europe for the exact same part just in case. Argh, lots of work. Should have just 6.3V'd the dang light.

P.S. How bizarre!! We have exactly the same number of posts on this forum! Looks like I ought to buy an lottery ticket tonight!!

I'm on my way to get one now!

[martin manning]

There is no way to change the resistor. I will email Mouser tech and see what they say, then search Farnell Europe for the exact same part just in case. Argh, lots of work. Should have just 6.3V'd the dang light.

You can always add another (external) resistor between pin 3 and neutral.

[surfsup]

I almost bought this switch a couple weeks back sourcing parts. I would appreciate it if you could take a pic to show what it looks like installed.

[rp]

I almost bought this switch a couple weeks back sourcing parts. I would appreciate it if you could take a pic to show what it looks like installed.

With pleasure. This is the red dot version. I also got the other an other one where the button is all lens. Exactly the same otherwise. 3/4" punch and a minute with a round file makes for a perfect fit.