Anyone any good with woodwork?

[jammybstard]

Hi All

Anyone any good with wood work?

I'm having a go at building myself a 1x12 Combo for an ampmaker SE-5A kit i recently buil up; I'm making the cab out of 25mm Laiminated pine; This is how far I've got so far:
[IMG768]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f368/ ... 010217.jpg[/img]

I'm getting ready to cut the baffle. I'd like a clean baffle like this one

With the speaker attached on the inside with no visible bolts on the outside; is there some clever way of achiving this, or is it nasty self tapping screws?

The speaker is a 12" 1970 Celestion Greenback with 4 mounting holes.

[Structo]

Something wrong with the link you provided.

Not sure what you mean but most use the T nuts on the baffle for the speaker screws to screw into.

The baffle should be screwed to a couple cleats on each side.

For the baffle I believe you add strips of wood around the outside of the baffle board, then stretch the grill cloth over that and fasten it behind.

Here are some plans that may help.

[Sonny ReVerb]

Here's his pic:

[img:132:136]http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/2260/cabzz.jpg[/img]

[jammybstard]

Cheers Sonny

[dano-rator]

If I undestand the issue - you are trying to secure the speaker to the baffle w/ something more robust than just screws? you could run threaded inserts (like the ones shown here http://www.yardleyproducts.com/) from the inside and use corresponding sized bolts to secure the speakers. I'd coat them in epoxy or some such just to be sure. That might be a better way to go, but honestly - I've run mine w/ heavy gauge screws holding 'em up and it seems just fine.

If that was the question, I hope it helps.

Dan

[Richie]

http://www.parts-express.com/catalog/pd ... 4pec10.pdf


When mounting the speaker, sometimes a T nut,depending on which ones you get, the flange may be wider and stick out past the cutout. From the link it shows many types of T nuts,,hurricane nuts and barrell nuts.
Some have a smaller flange,some have more barbs etc..
These can also be used in the cleats if you mount that way, instead of just screwing the baffle into the cleats.
Just a few ideas you can think about how you want to mount the baffle and speaker. Some people like to put bolts through from the front, and have those to set the speaker on. I don't like that way as much, you have to be real careful when mounting the speaker, not to poke a hole in it,if you drop it, or don't have it all lined up good.
But as the link shows, a bag of those is not much,and can also get the bolts that fit the nut you choose to use.

They also use those for the handle.

Also, another hint would be, if you use these, you can use a black magic marker or paint etc.. to make them dark so they won't show through any grill cloth.
Also depending on what your using for grill cloth, its best to use a dark stain on the baffle,or color stain matching the grill cloth.
That way, its dark behind the grill cloth.
When the stain dries, after you have the speaker hole cut,and mounting nuts pressed tapped in etc.. then you can put on the grill cloth.
HTH

Richie

[jammybstard]

What I'm trying to achive is securing the speaker to the back of the baffle without any evidence on the front of the baffle so it looks really clean. The threaded inserts look interesting; but I had a bit of a brain wave which I think might work out, I might try epoxying in some short lengths of stud bar into the back of the baffle and then use knuts to fasten the speaker onto the stud.

[xk49w]

These Fender style baffle screws are okay. Not cheap but...

[img:500:416]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_jpUbIh2UclM/S5GyF ... screws.jpg[/img]

I bought them from Angela Inst ebay store. They are also available here apparently. I think CE Dist carries them (wholesale only?).

You use a #8 countersink from the front. Reverse thread holds it in.

[Jana]

"Anyone any good with wood work?"

I make a mean pile of sawdust.

[M Fowler]

I make a mean pile of sawdust.

And your good with a broom huh, Jana

[Jana]

lol, yeah, a clean driving record!

[xk49w]

I blew up the small image a bit and now see what the OP is going for. That cab looks like the carcass is perhaps 3/4" box jointed pine and visible baffle maybe something less.

The speaker might be mounted to another baffle behind the visible one using T-nuts or Fender screws and the grill cloth stretched across it. Attaching that baffle to the visible one is the trick.

[Phil_S]

I blew up the small image a bit and now see what the OP is going for. That cab looks like the carcass is perhaps 3/4" box jointed pine and visible baffle maybe something less.

The speaker might be mounted to another baffle behind the visible one using T-nuts or Fender screws and the grill cloth stretched across it. Attaching that baffle to the visible one is the trick.

I agree. There are no visible signs of mounting screws on the exterior front. There has got to be either a "sandwich" or a false front involved.

It looks like a lot of trouble to me to do this, but if it floats your boat, go right ahead.

When you cut the hole, be very sure you cut it to the correct size. If you cut the opening a little bit too large, you are removing the material for the mounting screws. It seems obvious, but after you've learned this the hard way (I admit to nothing) you learn to be much more careful. For example http://professional.celestion.com/guita ... c.asp?ID=6 this 12" needs a cutout 11.1"

[angelodp]

Yes, on my 5E3 build i used internal cleats that snugged up against the baffle and the cleats are screwed to the sides of the cabinet. I did use the standard screws top and bottom but the main retaining strength comes from the internal cleats on the sides.

[IMG:600:450]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... inal-2.jpg[/img]
[IMG:648:486]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... -int-2.jpg[/img]
[IMG:648:585]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... /5E3-3.jpg[/img]

[jammybstard]

The worlds longest amp build continues!

I plucked up the courage to pickup the router again and cut the speaker hole; I've been fettling the electronics for the last couple of weeks and I need to get the speaker mounted now so I can hear the end result a bit better (the intrim cardbox cab solution is not cutting it).
[IMG:768:1024]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f368/ ... 9f1fae.jpg[/img]

[IMG768]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f368/ ... 5285e8.jpg[/img]

I was quite happy with the results so far untill I tried the head section in place and spotted a silly mistake!

[IMG768]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f368/ ... 45af11.jpg[/img]

[IMG768]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f368/ ... 42a544.jpg[/img]

I hadn't taken the depth of the backboard into account when I measured the cut-out and now the knobs are two close to the edge, too close to turn!
I'll have to use a thinner backboard to compensate; Ideally aluminum or stainless steel sheet; I cant find a supplier local that will cut me a sheet to size; anyone know of a internet supplier of sheet metal one-offs that won/t charge the earth?