Any Landmines Waiting for JTM45 Builder?

[NickC]

........... the fibers insist on hanging out over the joints while I'm soldering ...........

I push the cloth-covering back on the wire and use hemostats to hold it back. Then tin the end of the wire, solder into place, and remove the hemostats. I also use hemostats as heat-sinks to protect caps and other delicate parts while soldering.

[M Fowler]

I don't like using cloth wire either.

[statorvane]

I don't see what the fascination with cloth covered wire is all about. If you've ever had to redo some older household wiring, the stuff practically dissolves into dust. I suppose you could say the same for rubber - it gets brittle over time.

i I like the Teflon covered wire. It was a bit of a struggle to strip until I got some really good wire strippers. Doesn't melt when you solder, like some PVC wire.

[The New Steve H]

This wire is garbage. It's like using cow manure instead of cinderblocks to build a house, just because they did it that way in 5,000 BC. I mean, if your objective is to create a movie prop that looks like an old amp, I get it. But we want this amp to work and be reliable. If I were using Teflon, the wiring would be finished by now.

I appreciate the hemostat tip. Sadly, the damage is done already, and I don't have hemostats. Maybe I can use glue or something to shape the cloth so it in some way resembles insulation.

[Phil_S]

Look, all this moaning and groaning about wire...it's not pretty. I have found that each type of wire requires its own proper technique.

Stripping the slippery PFTE can be challenging, especially with the wrong stripper or a dull stripper.

PVC will burn if your soldering technique isn't just so, or you just didn't strip enough length at the business end where you put the iron.

Cloth wire is pushback wire. If you know how to use it, it doesn't fray. You must clip it flush (insulation and conductor) with a sharp scissor or clipper, so the end is clean and not frayed. Then, retract some insulation from the conductor until you've exposed the proper length. Once done, it should stay in place. Pull it back a little extra if you like. After soldering, you can push it back towards the joint leaving a minimum of conductor exposed.

If you attempt to strip cloth pushback wire, you'll end up with a mess -- the kind that Steve describes. Know what you are using and use it the correct way. You won't have trouble.

I've used all three types. The one I'm least fond of is PVC. I think that is because I'm an amateur. I build once or twice a year. I don't do "repairs". Without constant practice, my soldering technique, while OK is never at the top of the game.

[The New Steve H]

It doesn't stay in place, though. It creeps back while you're working on it.

[Zippy]

I got the heaters wired, but I'm concerned that the fraying of that stupid cloth will cause something to short.

How is INSULATION going to cause a short?

[The New Steve H]

Not insulation. Lack thereof.

[Phil_S]

It doesn't stay in place, though. It creeps back while you're working on it.

I don't want to be critical here...we all do our level best to work with the materials. What you report suggests that you don't have the technique "down" just yet. I had the creep back at first. You've got to wiggle the stuff upstream enough to take some of the pressure off the end. When working with short lengths, I push some so it overhangs the conductor and then I snip it and expose both ends instead of trying to strip it. You can also push it back and put an itty bitty bit of heat shrink on it to clamp it in the retracted position.

I can understand why folks don't like it. Really, I can. Cloth isn't my first choice. Like many others, I prefer PFTE. But I don't dislike it and after I got the hang of it, I didn't mind at all.

[The New Steve H]

I'm sorry, but I have already issued my ruling on the heinosity of cloth insulation, and the appeal period has expired.

[Reeltarded]

lol always with the negative.

I'd rather use it than the poly stuff that makes you disassemble a whole amp just to redress a single wire. We should make airplanes out of black box material, and we should make black boxes out of that crap! It's great if it's right. Plan for it to be right, or suffer!

[The New Steve H]

I just have a feeling that the cloth wire guys would also recommend using the same denture adhesive Leo Fender wore in 1949, even if you don't have dentures.

[crbowman]

The old original cloth covered push-back wire was waxed and didn't fray easily. From the picture, it looks like you've got the newer stuff that is basically insulated and then wrapped with non-waxed cloth. I've got four rolls of that stuff I'll never use. It's pure shite! The older stuff was solid core, waxed, and much neater and easier to work with.

[Gibsonman63]

Personally, I like working with the push back wire. I came close to building my Liverpool with it. I gutted and rewired my 72 Super Reverb a while back. Lead dress is super easy. Cut the wire a little longer than you need. Solder one end. Dress out the wire the way you want it and trim to fit perfectly. Trying to do that and strip insulation is much harder to me and the cutters can get where the strippers won't fit.