My Very First Ever Build AA764 Vibro Champ. (Cab is here)

[Structo]

Did you get some stand offs for the board?

These are little spacers that lift the board up off the chassis.

[tribi9]

Did you get some stand offs for the board?

These are little spacers that lift the board up off the chassis.

No, but Mojo sent a double board. One is blank and one has the eyelets. Will this work?

[IMG:800:600]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271 ... C01934.jpg[/img]

[M Fowler]

You can get stand offs at most hardware or home centers to. Especially for people building the komet boards with caps underneath the hardware stores have 1 inch or longer standoffs.

Mark

[Structo]

I would use 3/8" to 1/2" stand offs. You can find the nylon type at Home Depot and the like.
You can still use the double board.

Elevating it just makes it easier for proper lead dress.

[tribi9]

As usual, I appreciate any input I get from you guys.

I don't have any holes underneath the chassis for the stand offs. Any idea how to get around that without drilling the chassis? The standoffs do need a hole, right?

[Zippy]

Whether you use standoffs or not, you still need to secure the board to the chassis.

ZzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzz...

This is a drill, this is only a drill.

[tribi9]

Whether you use standoffs or not, you still need to secure the board to the chassis.

ZzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzz...

This is a drill, this is only a drill.

Lol.

Thx, Im still not sure how I'm going to do it but wouldn't a stand off take care of securing the board?

[collinsamps]

I would use 3/8" to 1/2" stand offs. You can find the nylon type at Home Depot and the like.
You can still use the double board.

Elevating it just makes it easier for proper lead dress.

Define "Proper"? No originals ever had standoffs with the backer board and using them isn't going to change the wiring behind the board one bit. Whats more "proper" than an original?

With moisture over time the board material will start to warp like all originals do, but being screwed to a flat surface of the chassis minimizes it.

[M Fowler]

I wasn't able to see the picture, blocked at work, on my other reply.

Craig, I agree the tage boards were screwed down.

And most home building centers I frequent have aluminum standoffs in many different lengths for turret boards builds.

Mark

[tribi9]

So... pretty much I have to drill through the chassis? (Since there are no holes in the area the tagboard sits)

ARGHHHHHHHHHHH!

[Phil_S]

Drilling a couple of holes is no big deal. We all have to do it to mount the board. Some boards mount OK with two holes, others need four. Don't sweat this. Just make sure you put the holes in the right place. The way to do this is to use the board as your alignment tool. Drill one hole, put a screw through the board and the chassis (doesn't need to be bolted. and use it to find the location for the next hole, center punch and drill it, etc, until you are done. You remove the board during drilling.

Go ahead. It won't hurt me at all.

"Arghhh" is for holes that end up where you can't use them.

[tribi9]

Unibit and center punch it is!

[Structo]

I would use 3/8" to 1/2" stand offs. You can find the nylon type at Home Depot and the like.
You can still use the double board.

Elevating it just makes it easier for proper lead dress.

Define "Proper"? No originals ever had standoffs with the backer board and using them isn't going to change the wiring behind the board one bit. Whats more "proper" than an original?

With moisture over time the board material will start to warp like all originals do, but being screwed to a flat surface of the chassis minimizes it.

Sorry, you are right.
I suppose if he didn't want to replicate the amp he wouldn't have used the fish paper boards.

[Phil_S]

Unibit and center punch it is!

No unibit. These are holes for screws. Maybe 1/8" +/- holes; depends on what size screw you select. Just use a regular twist bit. Center punch is essential for accuracy.

[Structo]

Be careful when you drill holes.

If you are like me and build the amp on your dining room table, the misses gets upset when you drill through the chassis into the table........

Measure three times and drill once.

Seriously, if you have pictures of an actual amp, try to locate the board and other components just like what you see.

For instance, you don't want the board too close to the pots or too close to the sockets.

Don't solder any of the components until you have all your flying leads on.

Eyelet boards are more forgiving if you do solder something and have to remove the solder.

I hope you bought a solder sucker, invaluable tool when soldering.

I use this one:

[img:450:91]http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/p ... 856755.jpg[/img]

It's called a Soldapullt lll.

The small ones that Radio Shack sells don't have enough suction to be effective.