There were labels on the cables with arrows on them to show the way the signal should follow.
I know they looked cool and cost a bunch, how much more affective they were at rejecting noise or making it sound better I don't know......
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Cliff Schecht wrote:This is what I do. Works like a charm.Bob Simpson wrote:I make my star quad instrument cables differently...
18 feet Canare star quad cable. ( or less... ) Rarely longer.
Neutrik or Switchcraft connectors.
Heat shrink tubing.
I pair ( 2 same color ) conductors to tip both ends.
Other pair ( 2 other color ) conductors to sleeve both ends.
Shield to sleeve - One end only.
Good luck
Bob
Another trick you can do to increase cable toughness is to build the cable and fill the connector internals with epoxy. It really helps keep those wires from breaking. I really only do this with short stompbox cables though as those see more abuse than my regular cables.
I don't think that's what Cliff and Bob said. selloutr suggested that approach. The Star Quad stuff is cheaper than GS-6, but doesn't have the conductive layer which is there to supress mechanical noise from the braid, as the cable moves around. Trade-offs. I'm interested in the idea though. Please tell us more.rp wrote:Are we talking L4E6S StarQuad? What's the point of making guitar cables with this? Seems like a lot of trouble, especially now that we know that all 4 cores must go to the tip - yow!
What are people using StarQuad for guitar hearing over GS6?
Why do you suggest that?selloutrr wrote:If using quad star cable to get the proper impedance all 4 conductors need to go to tip!
And get a flux pen. Essential if you ever do SMD work but a real godsend for soldering connectors.selloutrr wrote:Tip - use a 60/40 or 60/32 kester solder. read up on the melting point of the wires coating, set your iron so you wont melt it. tin your wires, use a vise or wood block to hold the connector put a dab of solder on the connectors terminal not in the hole. place the wire in the hole and solder the wire in place using the solder pad to quickly bond the solder to the housing. repeat, let cool 5 min. ( totally cool! ) read ohms. reflow ground it needed. test continuty close up the cable and enjoy!
I do AV work and this comes up often, at least for me - no one else cares much. It's supposed to be at the source, but what if it's 200' of cable back to a rack, you'd think the rack end would be closer to the real ground. I also do Crestron and have never really figured out where to put the drain shield. I usually do it to the power supply, which is usually not the source but it seems more better, as a friend would say, otherwise it's to the source if it's not a home run.Zippy wrote:FWIW, if I were connecting the shield on one end only, I would ground it at the amp. That would be the closest to a real ground.
Bob Simpson wrote:I don't usually mark which end of the cord has the shield.
Probably should. Colored heat shrink or something.
In case EJ needs to borrow one.
Normally, it's the straight plug, which would go to the amp input.
Angled goes to my guitar.
Unless it's the strat.
Bob
Do you use the little tip cup things? I've seen them used in Speakon connections, but I don't what to call them so I can order them.rp wrote:I do AV work and this comes up often...