HEATER WIRES

[xtian]

to be clear this is what I was referring to as parallel for the preamp tubes.

Ooh! Super nice. So why not do the same for the power tubes, where it's even less critical?

[Smokebreak]

I've used multiple techniques in the same amp, depending on how other wiring fits into the equation. Maybe not the neatest looking, then again, I've recently stopped using 18g for preamps in most all my amps. It's hard to find the exact same colors of the wire I like to use, but 20g is about a billion times less frustrating, and more than capable, if I understand correctly.

[ToneMerc]

I've used multiple techniques in the same amp, depending on how other wiring fits into the equation. Maybe not the neatest looking, then again, I've recently stopped using 18g for preamps in most all my amps. It's hard to find the exact same colors of the wire I like to use, but 20g is about a billion times less frustrating, and more than capable, if I understand correctly.

I might have to try this method sometime because I hate doing heater wiring.

TM

[Structo]

Nice!

I don't have enough experience building amps to be able to make a judgement either way.

I find it strange that Jim Marshall didn't use the same wiring as the Bassman that he copied for the JTM45.

Does it matter if the amp is push/ pull in that it cancels out of phase noise?

[cbass]

There's this totally disparallel

[Bob S]

Here's a pic of an amp I built last year.
Silent - zero hum.
Straight parallel pre-amp filament wiring - shortest path.
Twisted flying power tube filaments.
I figured less wire = good thing - especially when it creates a 60Hz field.
Particularly around pre-amp tubes, where an infant signal is more easily influenced by the big bad humming wolf.
I hate wiring filaments too.

[pops]

I have wired filaments twisted tightly, lying down flat on each side of the tube against the chassis and have rectified the heaters and all were quiet. The dc heaters were in a tweed twin and were rectified after the power tubes with a filter stage at each preamp after. Super quiet.

[Firestorm]

Here's a pic of an amp I built last year.
Silent - zero hum.
Straight parallel pre-amp filament wiring - shortest path.
Twisted flying power tube filaments.
I figured less wire = good thing - especially when it creates a 60Hz field.
Particularly around pre-amp tubes, where an infant signal is more easily influenced by the big bad humming wolf.
I hate wiring filaments too.

I can totally see how that would work. The idea of twisting them is to make the wires occupy the same physical space so the fields are superimposed. Heat shrinking parallel runs does virtually the same thing.

[Gaz]

By the same logic, I've always heard that zip cord (aka lamp cord) would work well since it keeps the wires parallel, and presumably better than heat shrink.

I'm sure most of you have heard this as well (I think it's in Merlin's book too), but has anyone actually tried it? I have never ever seen it in a DIY or production amp. It seems to me that it would save an incredible amount of wiring time and look very tidy.

[Phil_S]

The problem I had the single time I tried to use zip cord was that its wire gauge size was too unruly and fat to fit into a noval pin. I was probably using 16AWG. I imagine, if you can find 18AWG, it would be much better but still challenging to thread two pieces into the same noval pin to create the daisy chain. It looks a whole lot easier to me to align the sockets and thread a length of solid copper with heatshrink sleeves.

[Structo]

Welp, I guess there are more than one way to skin a cat.

I saw a good video today about the new LED light bulbs.

To test emissions the guy took his oscilloscope leads and clipped the ground lead to the probe tip then laid that across the powered LED light bulb.
It showed the hash but he clarified that there was also so emissions from other things in his lab.

It would be interesting to see the differences in emissions from different style of heater wiring.

I think many times we just follow convention on the various builds and don't give heaters a lot of thought.

But it is interesting that you can do Fender style, Marshall style and Trainwreck style and they can all be efficient with little to no 60Hz hum.

[Gaz]

The problem I had the single time I tried to use zip cord was that its wire gauge size was too unruly and fat to fit into a noval pin. I was probably using 16AWG. I imagine, if you can find 18AWG, it would be much better but still challenging to thread two pieces into the same noval pin to create the daisy chain. It looks a whole lot easier to me to align the sockets and thread a length of solid copper with heatshrink sleeves.

That's kind of a moot point, because they have zip cord as small as 24AWG here for a fair price: http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/red ... fgodQ3sA9g

I think the Soldano method you describe is the worst because it puts the heater wires more closely to other signal wires moreso than the other methods. Both other common methods keep the wires away from other socket wires and reduce the radiated field by making them parallel. The Soldano way is kinda parallel, but I don't think the wires can even 'see' each other from that distance. I also hate how you have to contort the socket pins to do that method. Beltons are sensitive to bending, especially 8 pins, which I don't bend at all anymore. Just a little... SNAP!

jm2c

[pops]

I am not sure the heater wires really need to be parallel. I built an amp with the heater wires laid down on the chassis one on one side of the tube and the other on the other side of the tube, all other wires came in from the top like your heater wires might do. Was still quiet. No parallel about it, no being together no cancellation, just quiet.

[Jana]

Keep in mind that Soldano uses DC on the heaters.

[Gaz]

Not in the SLO, he doesn't.