The mounting for the reverb tank. There is a post near each corner with a spring attached to the tank. The tank floats about 1/4" away from the front face of the cabinet when the locking lever is disengaged
Rear /top view of chassis. I did replace the cord with a three pronged version but I left the original two pronged utility outlet on the chassis since it is very hard to find a suitable replacement and I do not use it anyway.
double check the taper of the pots. Make sure you have the correct taper for the pot with a DVM . Are they audio taper with a linear in place?
I recently used my brad nailer. grab some brad nails and had problems getting it to fire correctly. after assuming the nailer was the problem because it was a very cheap model at tool king , I found I was putting 16 gauge nail in an 18 ga nailer. What a dumb move on my part. but I assumed it was right.
Anyway I mention it since so many things can be the problem.
All three pots are linear taper in this design. I agree that substituting a linear taper for an audio taper would cause the problem that the OP has, but it should not be a problem here.
I can't but help think the recovery circuit is a little too light on with just one stage of gain. I also think substituting a log pot for the linear dwell pot would be a good idea.
I thought I should include a picture of how I managed the spring-mounted reverb tank. My tank is one that mounts face down. The same process should work for a tank that needs to be vertical. The springs are pretty light weight (although they are about 1/4" in diameter). They are about 1 1/2" long. I took four machine screws that were long enough to go through the cabinet and about 1 1/2" more. I drilled holes through the springs about 1/4" down from the end. I then determined by eyeballing it how far out and down from the hole on the tank the post would need to be to keep the tank about 1/4" up in the air with a little bit of tension on the springs. This is certainly not critical as there are usually a series of holes in a row on the tank to choose from to fine tune the tension.. I then mounted the screws to the cabinet (countersunk holes and then filled with spackle or wood putty so the Tolex looks smooth). The springs are then attached to the machine screws, running them through the hole and then on for a few turn so they remain secure (you can also adjust the final tension by how many turns you go). Clip the other ends onto the holes in the tank and that's it.
Well, Jon...... I hope you have your reverb fixed.
Personally, I don't think I will be posting any more information for you to ponder.
In response to a message from another poster I headed to the basement with camera in hand and disassembled my vintage Fender reverb so I could post gut shots. Back panel off, tank unhooked, chassis removed, etc. I needed to post-process the pictures in Photoshop to get them to a proper size for the Internet and then I had to upload them to a service so I could link them to this board. Then I had to log onto this board and compose a response with the various links. Then I realized that I should have posted a picture of how a horizontal tank could be mounted and I did so in another post.
I responded to your "I know that my tank has too long a delay" message asking you just what tank you were using, since the original Fender uses a long delay tank. I gave you the original tank coding and indicated that the Accutronics website has the details.
You have never responded to any of the messages I posted (at some considerable effort on my part) with so much as a "thanks". The same holds for the responses from Mark.
Well........ That's it. Hence the "Adios Amigo" title to this message.
Where we stand is I have a perfectly functional vintage 1965 Fender Reverb and it is fabulous. You have seen pictures inside and out to attest to that . You are trying to make your clone work and cannot seem to do so. I have tried to help you, but you seemingly don't give a rip about the effort of others to help you.
I am done trying to help you.
I hope that the information I and others have provided is of use to others who try to build a vintage Fender reverb clone.
I also hope that anyone who benefits from this thread has the decency to acknowledge those who have tried to help.
Kazooman wrote:Well, Jon...... I hope you have your reverb fixed.
Personally, I don't think I will be posting any more information for you to ponder.
In response to a message from another poster I headed to the basement with camera in hand and disassembled my vintage Fender reverb so I could post gut shots. Back panel off, tank unhooked, chassis removed, etc. I needed to post-process the pictures in Photoshop to get them to a proper size for the Internet and then I had to upload them to a service so I could link them to this board. Then I had to log onto this board and compose a response with the various links. Then I realized that I should have posted a picture of how a horizontal tank could be mounted and I did so in another post.
I responded to your "I know that my tank has too long a delay" message asking you just what tank you were using, since the original Fender uses a long delay tank. I gave you the original tank coding and indicated that the Accutronics website has the details.
You have never responded to any of the messages I posted (at some considerable effort on my part) with so much as a "thanks". The same holds for the responses from Mark.
Well........ That's it. Hence the "Adios Amigo" title to this message.
Where we stand is I have a perfectly functional vintage 1965 Fender Reverb and it is fabulous. You have seen pictures inside and out to attest to that . You are trying to make your clone work and cannot seem to do so. I have tried to help you, but you seemingly don't give a rip about the effort of others to help you.
I am done trying to help you.
I hope that the information I and others have provided is of use to others who try to build a vintage Fender reverb clone.
I also hope that anyone who benefits from this thread has the decency to acknowledge those who have tried to help.
"Jon" is on my "no response" list.
DUDE!!!!!!
Take a pill. First while I do appreciate the the very nice high res pics "I" never asked for them, Mark did.
Second, I have a wife. I dont need someone else busting my balls. If I'm on your shit list so be it.
Mark wrote:Sorry Kazooman, I'm normally pretty good with this sort of thing, I'd like to think a search of this site would attest to that.
My comments were not directed at you. When I wrote "The same holds for the responses from Mark." I was referring to the fact that Jon doesn't care to respond to your questions either. (see our messages from Monday about the delay time of the tank).
It is hard to help someone troubleshoot a problem if they don't provide answers to simple questions.
martin manning wrote:Nice archive of 6G15 pics Kazooman. I've personally never seen the insides of one of these, and I'm sure lots of folks here appreciate the effort.
Thanks, happy to post them. If anyone needs a look from another angle let me know.
I just noticed this thread and I appreciate all the info and pics. A revibe type build is my next planned project (and has been for well over a year). I'm finally going to be ordering the supplies in the next few days.
I've heard people try to describe how these tanks are supposed to be mounted, but it actually took your pics to wrap my mind around it. I will be referring to this thread a lot in coming hours as well as weeks...
720]http://i47.tinypic.com/34jd45z.jpg[/img]
