Faceplate making material

[rp]

They make special bits for plexi and you need them. Places that sell plastics and maybe craft places will have them. Google plexi bits. I have them up to 1/2" they might even make bigger. The tips have an extended taper, like a cone, and gradually spin and melt their way in easing the sharpened edge of the spiral into the hole for the clean cut. I'll often first use a soldering iron to make a dimple to prevent the bit from traveling.

If you are good with a grinding wheel you can make them out of regular bits. Here's a reg bit on the left next to a plexi bit.

That 52FA Faceplate is terrific.

[Gaz]

That's a neat trick with the soldering iron. I actually use a spring loaded punch to mark the holes, and have never had it crack, but I only use 1/8 Plexi (really limits the pots I can use, uunfortunately). You can use a fine point plastic bit, for the pilot, but it's fine to use a step-bit after that - no need to buy a special bit for every size hole. Setting your press to the slowest speed possible helps too.

[davent]

Whether working with polycarbonate or acrylic i use an optical centre punch then drill- 1/16"-3/32"-1/8"-step bit, just take things nice and slow, there's no hurry. (And getting a drillpress was a revelation!!)

dave

[JamesHealey]

I get my panels made on traffolite by the same company hiwatt use and they're very well priced!

They also do reversed engraved stuff that is really smart looking!

[rogb]

I get my panels made on traffolite by the same company hiwatt use and they're very well priced!

They also do reversed engraved stuff that is really smart looking!

Any links to the company/pics of your faceplate please

[guitarmike2107]

Lexan/Acrylic/plexi is easiest to drill if you clamp it between two bits of wood.

When I used to drill the stuff I made a template for drilling the chassis, I then used the same template for drilling the faceplate, just clamped three parts together, i.e. wood template, plexi, backing peice of scrap wood. never ripped/cracked a faceplate after doing that.

If you can paint your faceplate on or use decals as shown above you wont get the second layer of reflection that you get with just backing paper.

This amp here is printed paper behind a lexan sheet, no problem with the lexan scratching here anyway.
[IMG:800:600]http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292 ... Medium.jpg[/img]

[M Fowler]

Does the paper have an adhesive or just free form fitting behind that plastic?

Mark

[guitarmike2107]

The paper for the front panel was just "free form" as shown here, lots of pots and switches to clamp it flat.

The rear panel didnt have all the fittings so I glued the paper to a stiffer sheet of card, and that sorted that.

I had to iron the paper first too, but that was because I had to use an inkjet printer and the roll of paper that was fitted at the time was very thin stuff.

[surfsup]

dave, interesting

I get the 1/16" polycarbonate, actually a different brand then Lexan, from a local plastic dealer, http://www.paplastics.com/ . Cut to size, no minimum and a couple of dollars per faceplate.

I go to Toronto a few times a year so I could maybe order up a few then pick them up as well. BTW, your photos have awakened the artist in me again. Damn, those are beauts...!

[jcat5503]

I get my panels made on traffolite by the same company hiwatt use and they're very well priced!

They also do reversed engraved stuff that is really smart looking!

I would love to know what this company is as well!

[KindaFuzzy]

I just tried this stuff called Safmat today, and it's pretty good, much easier to work with than waterslide decals which were a little brittle to work with. Here's a pic of the latest:

[img:500:375]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/543 ... 8a99b9.jpg[/img]

Just need to clear coat it and drill, we'll see how it holds up after that.

[Structo]

I'd like to hear more about that Safmat.

I see it is a clear film with adhesive on the back.

So you can print on it with an ink jet, but you clear coat it right?
To keep the ink from smearing?

You know, I'll bet you could take your graphic to a print shop and they would print your faceplate on it with a laser printer for a minimal charge.
Because isn't laser ink color fast?

Or maybe you could laminate the original with another sheet?

[davent]

Are you picking up the Safmat locally?

Website says you can use it with inkjet printers or black & white laser printers, looks promising.

dave

[Structo]

Yes, I think laser ink is water proof isn't it?

[KindaFuzzy]

I got some at above ground art supplies downtown near the ocad building since they were out of waterslide decals. I'm sure I could take it to a printing house, but thought I'd try this just to see. I used my black and white laser printer, and you just print right on the top of the sticker, and stick it on. Definitely going to clear coat, since some of the black chipped off a wee bit when rubbing the sticker on.

They had this other stuff too that you had to print on one sheet, then stick to the bottom of the sticker, then stick to your faceplate. I forget what it was called but it sounded complicated.