Which printer?
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Which printer?
I was thinking of picking up a used HP laserjet to help with making pcb's and plexi style faceplates. Then I thought I also want to try making some of my own printed faceplate labels. Any suggestions for what printer to buy that might be userful for both purposes?
Re: Which printer?
Something I have done in the past was to print waterslide decals on my HP Inkjet printer.
The only problem is it depends what the back ground color of the face plate is.
If it's black then it is harder because printers don't print in white.
They will print the background black and leave the letters clear.
So if you use white decal or label paper, that will work.
I have tried that and the problem was that my printers black ink didn't print real evenly so it didn't look that great.
Of course the problem is, the ink is water soluble whereas the laser ink is not (I think).
The cheaper laser printers will only print black. But, the color lasers have come down in price greatly so that may be an option.
Also you can go to a print shop and pay to have some made by them.
The main concern is durability of the label system you choose to use.
Best if it has a protective film over the lettering or you can spray a clear coat over it as I describe below.
So for the background color of the face plate I have used spray paint to color it white or any other color where black letters will stand out good.
Or you can change the color of the letters as well.
But what I do is before I cut out the decals I spray some clear lacquer over the top of the decal sheet with several misting coats.
Then after I apply them to a faceplate and they have dried for a day, I begin spraying coats of lacquer over the faceplate.
After about the third or fourth coat, I wait until the next day and wet sand just over the decal a little bit to level the lacquer.
With 800 or 1000 paper.
You don't want to sand very hard because the lacquer is thin and you will sand into the decal.
Then I continue burying the decals in coats of lacquer level sanding every third or so coat.
After about 6 to 8 coats, the face plate can be put aside to dry a couple days or a week would be better, then wet sand and polish to a high gloss.
When done you can't really tell it isn't a professionally made face plate if you get every thing nice and straight.
Another option is that I have seen some guys use clear plexiglas and apply the decals to the back side (you have to print in reverse), then spray a gold or other color over the decals.
That way you have a nice smooth plexi surface with the lettering on the backside.
Lots of options.
The only problem is it depends what the back ground color of the face plate is.
If it's black then it is harder because printers don't print in white.
They will print the background black and leave the letters clear.
So if you use white decal or label paper, that will work.
I have tried that and the problem was that my printers black ink didn't print real evenly so it didn't look that great.
Of course the problem is, the ink is water soluble whereas the laser ink is not (I think).
The cheaper laser printers will only print black. But, the color lasers have come down in price greatly so that may be an option.
Also you can go to a print shop and pay to have some made by them.
The main concern is durability of the label system you choose to use.
Best if it has a protective film over the lettering or you can spray a clear coat over it as I describe below.
So for the background color of the face plate I have used spray paint to color it white or any other color where black letters will stand out good.
Or you can change the color of the letters as well.
But what I do is before I cut out the decals I spray some clear lacquer over the top of the decal sheet with several misting coats.
Then after I apply them to a faceplate and they have dried for a day, I begin spraying coats of lacquer over the faceplate.
After about the third or fourth coat, I wait until the next day and wet sand just over the decal a little bit to level the lacquer.
With 800 or 1000 paper.
You don't want to sand very hard because the lacquer is thin and you will sand into the decal.
Then I continue burying the decals in coats of lacquer level sanding every third or so coat.
After about 6 to 8 coats, the face plate can be put aside to dry a couple days or a week would be better, then wet sand and polish to a high gloss.
When done you can't really tell it isn't a professionally made face plate if you get every thing nice and straight.
Another option is that I have seen some guys use clear plexiglas and apply the decals to the back side (you have to print in reverse), then spray a gold or other color over the decals.
That way you have a nice smooth plexi surface with the lettering on the backside.
Lots of options.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!