Tolex glue compatible with water based wood filler? Shellac?

[nuke]

I'm getting near the point of covering my 1959 Magnatone 260A restoration. Built a mostly-new cabinet by duplicating the moisture-damaged original. Planning to use MOD Tolex Glue, from Antique Electronic supply and leatherette that's a close match for the original.

The leatherette is a bit thin (as was the original) and will show defects in the wood, like voids in the plywood, marks from crown staples, other nicks and stuff. So I used Timber Mate wood filler here and there, which worked well. But, it isn't waterproof and tolex glue is water based.

I'm thinking to spray over the filler with some shellac, let that dry, then use the water-based Tolex Glue. If the glue will bond ok with with shellac, I think would do the trick.

Anyone have experience with this stuff? There's essentially no actual technical data on Tolex Glue, what it is or what it is and isn't compatible with.

[xtian]

Yes, I use it. It's similar to rubber cement, though much less viscous. I would think it will sit up on any surface, and you can apply it heavily if needed.

[timrobertson100]

I’ve used it directly over wood filler without any problem - it seems to stick on everything.

Good luck!

[nuke]

Thanks, I'll make a test sample first.

The filler I used is water-soluble when dry. It turns back into putty in other words. It is normally used with urethane or other finishes to harden it.

My fear was that the water-based glue would soften the filler.

[xtian]

My fear was that the water-based glue would soften the filler.

Doubtful. I've used on unfinished pine. Doesn't soak into the surface, dries quickly to tacky.

[nuke]

Well, I am glad I did a test run with it on scrap wood, filler, shellac, bare wood and some swatches of covering materials.

The filler sticks well to Tolex glue, but it doesn't stick all that well to wood. The water based glue does indeed, re-hydrate the filler back to the putty state.

My schellac experiment was similar. It does keep the water in the tolex glue from softening the putty. The glue sticks to the shellac very well, but it will pull up with the filler. Shellac on bare wood is similar, glue adheres to the shellac, but the shellac doesn't grip the wood well.

Tolex glue on bare wood, very strong. Quite hard to pull up the leatherette.

So, spent time sanding today. A little filler ok in holes and gouges, but no feathering edges. Sand critical glue points to bare clean wood.

[Reeltarded]

What wood did you use? I bet this is a job that requires no filler at all.

The glue adheres to wood.

Scuff all surfaces about #220-280. Apply adhesive per instructions, bathe in glory and sip sweet tea.

[R.G.]

Sounds like another answer is to use a filler that's not water based.

[nuke]

Yeah, it's a "not-a-fender" cabinet. It's a 1959 Magnatone 260A. The original was damaged from sitting on a damp floor for probably many years. It is constructed with dado-rabbet joints and covered with thin leatherette. Defects in the wood telegraph through the covering. Hence the need to fill voids in the edges of birch plywood and to smooth the joinery as much as possible. Also, they used narrow-crown staples to hold it together, so I did the same. The staples leave a little hole where they go too.

I acquired it many years ago, finally got around to building a new cabinet. I have the whole thing, even the foot switch, but most of the cabinet was beyond repair. I saved the baffle board with grille cloth and the upper rear cover.

The putty was recommended by the guys at the Woodcraft store, but it is usually used with poly finishes, which soak in and harden it. I doubt they had any idea what "tolex glue" was. It is easy to work with and sands very smooth. They even use it on wood floors. But the trick is the finish application to harden it and waterproof it.

I do need some filler, there are a few voids in the edges of the plywood and some gouges and the joinery is not perfect and that's where the seams go. There are exterior grade wood fillers, epoxy based, that I could use. But they're harder to work with.

My next experiment is with thin superglue, just let a drop of it soak into the dried putty and harden. I think it will adhere better to the wood and water-proof the putty.

Here's what it is supposed to look like: https://trcrandall.com/products/1950s-m ... -amplifier

1950sMagnatone260AAmplifier-01_1080x.jpg.jpeg

Here's what I started with:

IMG_1475.jpeg

[R.G.]

Hmmm. I have in the past used auto body filler to fill wood voids. If they haven't been legally tampered with by now, they are filled polyester or epoxy resin concoctions. They set and harden very quickly, and of course sand to a very smooth finish. I wonder if "tolex glue" would stick; I think it probably would.

Of course, I - umm - did this behind closed doors and washed my hands afterwards.

[Astronomicum]

I use filler rated for exterior use. They also make a two part wood filler. Bondo for wood

[dorrisant]

Try Weldwood contact cement. Get the gel type with the blue lable. It will work, trust me, I have use it many times now. Do not put it on the back of the Tolex very thick though. It can distort the Tolex, as in melting it. I also know this from experience. Biggest disadvantage is that you might need to do the application outdoors. It will work over the woods filler.

Btw, I use cheap clear silicone to fill holes and gaps instead of wood filler. The water based glue will not stick to the silicone. The contact cement will though.

[nuke]

Water-thin superglue wicked right into the filler, hardened it up really well both without and with a little spray of accelerator. Sands nice and smooth and tolex glue seems happy with it. I'll go with that this go round.

[nuke]

Moving right along…

IMG_1514 Large.jpeg

[Scumback Speakers]

Here you go. I used this for years, worked great with the wood filler. None of the cabs are peeling over 14 years later.

https://www.cedist.com/products/tolex-g ... ying-tolex