Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
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luistrindade83
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:33 am
Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
Hello,
I’ve built an Spitfire inspired clone with some parts that I had laying around, components that I wanted to give some use, and with what I had at my disposal I chose the Matchless.
The only problem, I’ve used the Ken Watts and Ceriatone layout, the only problem with the amp is the hum, too much for my taste, I’ve been poking around and trying to find out the problem for this, but it is really annoying me. Can you guys give it a look and maybe suggest some strategies to correct this.
I’ve built an Spitfire inspired clone with some parts that I had laying around, components that I wanted to give some use, and with what I had at my disposal I chose the Matchless.
The only problem, I’ve used the Ken Watts and Ceriatone layout, the only problem with the amp is the hum, too much for my taste, I’ve been poking around and trying to find out the problem for this, but it is really annoying me. Can you guys give it a look and maybe suggest some strategies to correct this.
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Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
Things that will help get an answer:
1) Better pictures. One showing an complete overview and maybe a few close ups, one of the topside of the chassis, and . We need to be able to click on them so they will enlarge. I can't get what you posted to enlarge. (Maybe that's just me.)
2) If you have an idea of whether it is 60Hz or 120Hz (assuming North America, otherwise 50/100.) Guitar low E is 82Hz. Guitar A string is 110Hz, so you have a reference to judge.
3) Does anything you do change the hum, and if so, how?
4) Post a schematic and a layout diagram if you have these. If you deviated, see if you can give us a marked up copy.
1) Better pictures. One showing an complete overview and maybe a few close ups, one of the topside of the chassis, and . We need to be able to click on them so they will enlarge. I can't get what you posted to enlarge. (Maybe that's just me.)
2) If you have an idea of whether it is 60Hz or 120Hz (assuming North America, otherwise 50/100.) Guitar low E is 82Hz. Guitar A string is 110Hz, so you have a reference to judge.
3) Does anything you do change the hum, and if so, how?
4) Post a schematic and a layout diagram if you have these. If you deviated, see if you can give us a marked up copy.
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luistrindade83
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:33 am
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
I’ll try to post some images with better quality. It’s a 60hz hum, I’m sure of that, the strange thing is that it reacts with the pots, especially the master and tone, it grows with them being dialed to full position.
Another thing that I can say is that some resistor and two capacitors are to sensitive to the touch, the ones in the preamp section. Other than that is all normal. Thank you!
I’ll try to had the layouts later.
Another thing that I can say is that some resistor and two capacitors are to sensitive to the touch, the ones in the preamp section. Other than that is all normal. Thank you!
I’ll try to had the layouts later.
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Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
does your 6.3v have a center tap?
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luistrindade83
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:33 am
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Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
I made one with two 100ohm resistors to ground.
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Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
Well thats probably not the problem then.
Check continuity for all your grounds as well as making sure none were missed and possibly chopstick the wiring around v1 and see if you make the hum change at all if you havent already
Check continuity for all your grounds as well as making sure none were missed and possibly chopstick the wiring around v1 and see if you make the hum change at all if you havent already
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
i dont see the ground coming off terminal 1 of your bass pot
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luistrindade83
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:33 am
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
Touching the v1 gives me crackles and noise, but it doesn’t affect the noise, the wiring was all done twice, but without any improvement.
I wired the pot as is in the layout.
I followed the following two layouts:
I wired the pot as is in the layout.
I followed the following two layouts:
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Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
My bad, I was looking at a lightning layout
Other than those suggestions thats all I got at the moment
Other than those suggestions thats all I got at the moment
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
Its hard to tell but zooming in your first filter cap (F&T) looks like it says 330 but its smudged so Im unsure but that should be either 30 or 33uF depending on which layout you stuck with.
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luistrindade83
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:33 am
1 others liked this
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
It’s a 33uf capacitor, I used two 33uf and two 22uf.
The decoupling capacitors are .001 and .002, didn’t use the ceramic one on the pots.
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
This is an amateur's diagnosis. Others here have pro status, so take what I say with a grain of salt. There is some bleed over of the 60Hz running on the 6.3VAC filament circuit. When you open up those pots, the 60Hz signal is being amplified.luistrindade83 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 7:58 pm ... It’s a 60hz hum, I’m sure of that, the strange thing is that it reacts with the pots, especially the master and tone, it grows with them being dialed to full position.
There is nothing wrong with your style of wiring the filament string. That is my personal preference and it is easy to get a good result. You might chopstick the filament string and maybe you can move it just enough to get it out of range. Otherwise, I suggest rewiring, which I know is a PITA. You can rewire one section at a time and stop when the problem is cured. If you are rewiring, use the other style of running a filament harness, where you tuck it into the fold of the chassis. In that style of wiring, the filament supply will hug the chassis floor, running under the signal wires. You can then lift the signal wires so they are away from the filament wires. So, there is a clear chance doing any or all of this will not give you the result you want.
Good luck.
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luistrindade83
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:33 am
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
Thank you very much for your insight, you’re for sure more experienced than me. I’ve reworded the filements twice now, the one with best results was this one, the last. Moving the heaters with a chopstick doesn’t change the hum, but when I move the wires on the v1, the chopstick acts like an antena, causing more noise and crackling. Sorry if sometimes I’m not able to fully express, in detail, the symptoms of the amp, and some technical stuff, just a lover, and portuguese!Phil_S wrote: ↑Sat Feb 06, 2021 4:09 pmThis is an amateur's diagnosis. Others here have pro status, so take what I say with a grain of salt. There is some bleed over of the 60Hz running on the 6.3VAC filament circuit. When you open up those pots, the 60Hz signal is being amplified.luistrindade83 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 7:58 pm ... It’s a 60hz hum, I’m sure of that, the strange thing is that it reacts with the pots, especially the master and tone, it grows with them being dialed to full position.
There is nothing wrong with your style of wiring the filament string. That is my personal preference and it is easy to get a good result. You might chopstick the filament string and maybe you can move it just enough to get it out of range. Otherwise, I suggest rewiring, which I know is a PITA. You can rewire one section at a time and stop when the problem is cured. If you are rewiring, use the other style of running a filament harness, where you tuck it into the fold of the chassis. In that style of wiring, the filament supply will hug the chassis floor, running under the signal wires. You can then lift the signal wires so they are away from the filament wires. So, there is a clear chance doing any or all of this will not give you the result you want.
Good luck.
Thank you all.
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
I have no Portuguese. You have very good English!
I think you may have 2 or 3 problems at V1. I suggest rewiring V1. Look at the Ceriatone layout. Jumpers are used to connect pins 1+6, 2+7, and 3+8. Use heatshrink or other insulation as needed on the jumpers to be make sure they don't touch and short. Keep all the signal wires between the board and the socket. There should be nothing between the socket and the back wall of the chassis.
This will do a few things:
1) Eliminate the wire loops around the socket. Less wire is less opportunity to pick up noise.
2) Make new solder joints. I think you may have at least one bad solder.
3) Separate the filament supply from the signal wires.
I think you may have 2 or 3 problems at V1. I suggest rewiring V1. Look at the Ceriatone layout. Jumpers are used to connect pins 1+6, 2+7, and 3+8. Use heatshrink or other insulation as needed on the jumpers to be make sure they don't touch and short. Keep all the signal wires between the board and the socket. There should be nothing between the socket and the back wall of the chassis.
This will do a few things:
1) Eliminate the wire loops around the socket. Less wire is less opportunity to pick up noise.
2) Make new solder joints. I think you may have at least one bad solder.
3) Separate the filament supply from the signal wires.
Re: Help! Matchless Spitfire Inspired clone
It's really hard to say what the hum problem is.
The Spitfire is one of my favorite amps and gigged with one for many years.
Walk away from it and come back to it later. Always seems to help me.
Mark
The Spitfire is one of my favorite amps and gigged with one for many years.
Walk away from it and come back to it later. Always seems to help me.
Mark