chassis, turret boards

[cesout]

I tried out some copper sheet and used an engraving bit for the legend. I've got others without any lettering as well.

[LeftyStrat]

Nice. I'd love to see how that copper panel looked after being left outside for a while to develop the green patina.

Have you tried brass? I have some brass faceplates I was going to try etching in ferric chloride, but I'm not sure how fine a detail I can get. Your engraving looks pretty precise.

[ampgeek]

Pretty fine I would wager.

I have been studying home-grown PCBs for effects pedals and it appears that the DIY'er can some good results on fine lines with the toner transfer method. Can't recall the resolution but it surprised me how good it seemed.

Learning curve may be a bit steep (read:$) with a big ole' faceplate. But...if the material is scrap/free....it would seem worthy of taking a shot.

Here is a link to one of the videos I was checking out. Lots more out there as you probably know.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation ... k6WJpGyc4I

Good luck!
Dave O.

[Structo]

Remember the old solid state Ampegs that had the etched type front panel.
It was back lit and had a soft blue glow.
It was like PCB but had a silver metal on the front.

I had one but never explored how it was done but should be pretty simple.

[gktamps]

+1 on interest in chassis - your proto looks nice. Please let us know if you proceed, and your prices. Welded corners would be a plus, but not necessary for me.

I'm a longtime hobby welder with a very good water cooled TIG machine and two MIG machines, and experience with aluminum, bronze, and stainless and mild steels. I am offering this input: if you already have welding skills with aluminum but no good TIG or MIG welder, the investment in a good welder might take a lot of time to amortize through welding amp chassis. If you don't have the skills, there is a learning curve with aluminum on top of the equipment investment.

Aluminum has a melting point of about 1220F, and will often blow out abruptly if heat isn't properly applied, or you have a hot spot or edge. Not a problem if you are very careful to make your bends so that the inside corners are tight, with no gaps. Your photo shows one inside corner that looks nice and tight - that's what you'll need to get the best results with welding without blowouts and subsequent buildup and grinding.

Cheers,

Greg

[ampgeek]

Yes I do! Electroluminescent panels kind of like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4O3BGjxd5I

Not sure how it would be implemented with brass though. Seems fairly straight forward on PCB board with a little more study.

Cheers,
Dave O.

[yalesmith]

I am in! I have no idea where to get my chassis now since rj is no longer selling them. Your stuff looks good and if you are consistent i can guarantee that the guys here will treat you well.

Dave

[telentubes]

I'm in. Blank chassis are fine as well for the custom stuff. I buy from Watts, but there are some sizes, in-between what he offers, that would be handy. I assume there would be interest in D style chassis for sure.
I have bought 3 custom chassis from Dirty Dog with the alumiwelded corners. The welds seem very strong.

[Reeltarded]

Love the copper and any other source for chassis can't be a bad thing when you have a monkey to feed.

Ook