Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

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skyboltone
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Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by skyboltone »

Greetings:
I'm going to order some eyelets and tools to set them with. I'm also going to stop by Tap Plastics and see if they have garolite or some reasonable alternative. What thickness for boards? What thickness for prototype faceplates? What toolset? Mouser has 534-1721 "Keystone" basic kit; good one?

How much longer should the eyelet be than the thickness of the board??

Thanks in advance for the replies.

dan
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MarkB
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by MarkB »

I use a hammer and a metal plumb bob I found at Sears, but a center punch would do the job - anything metal with a conical shape. The eyelet should be just a little taller than the board is thick. I use 1/8" board. I got 1/8" eyelets once, so I countersunk the back of the board enough to let the eyelet protrude for staking.
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by Funkalicousgroove »

go to www.hoffmanamps.com he has a great little staking tool made from some allthread.

On board thickness:

If you are not using a backing board use 1/8" thick if you are using a backing board use 1/16" keep in mind that you MUST use standoffs if you go without the backing board.
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skyboltone
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by skyboltone »

Thanks Guys
Plumb bob and 1/4/20 bolts I got. Looks like an easy make it at home situation.


Dan
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Luthierwnc
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by Luthierwnc »

The Hoffman eyelets are perfect for 1/8" boards.

If you are using turrets you need to make a special anvil so they don't get bent. Mine is just a 3/8" bolt with hole drilled in the end. The hole needs to be just wide enough to fit the barrel of the turret but smaller than the base. This is put through a hole in a piece of scrap stock so it sticks up about 3/8". Mine is countersunk so the scrap will lay flat. Put the turret in the anvil so the base takes the blow. If the turret takes the pressure along its length, it will often buckle at the thinnest turning.

Quick shop tip: put the board right side up (and mark which side is up -- whole nuther story) and insert the eyelets. Masking tape them down so they don't scatter when you flip it over to swage the underside. I use an fret press so my whole process is upside down. A drill press works well too.

Good luck, Skip

Skip
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Luthierwnc
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by Luthierwnc »

Oh yeah, McMaster Carr in Atlanta has all kinds of garolite along with every other industrial doo-dad. sh
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Allynmey
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by Allynmey »

Sky, buy the set from Hoffman. You can get the eyelets there too. I've never had a problem with them. I have a couple of Hoffman eylet tools. They do turrets too! :D

Allyn
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DiademRoyale
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by DiademRoyale »

On the subject of where to get eyelets for these boards. I could not believe the prices all of these guys are charging for their eyelets! Not that they are not entitled to a profit-but come on. Michaels Craft and artsupply (I think they are all over the country) sells brass eyelets which are either nickle plated or natural brass with no coating of any sort on either style for use in fashion designs or something of that nature. They come in a round plastic box and are 1/8" od, tin very nicely at 100 for a dollar! I've been using them or similar ones for years and if you put the nickle ones beside any of the eyelets sold by our favorite suppliers they are exactly the same. They work well in the countersunk application on 1/8"board or straight up in the 1/16" board. Got to save wherever I can! Maybe some help to someone else hopefully. I'm a geezer Fender tech so IMHO eyelet boards are the only way to build.
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Luthierwnc
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by Luthierwnc »

This seems like the right time and place for a remedial shop tip. Occasionally, you are going to need to add a couple eyelets to a board that is already in place. Steel pop-rivets work great. They can be installed from the top without needing to get at the underside of the board. The 1/8" wide ones come in different lengths depending on the need. It takes a little longer to heat them up so clip a hemostat to vulnerable components. Don't get the aluminum ones.

Skip
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by paddy »

Hi Dan
I purchased the eyelet tool from Hoffman Amps and mounted it in
a hand operated beer bottle capper,available from home brewing suppliers.
The cappers are relatively cheap and make a great eyelet press.
I populated my board in about ten minutes--much faster and stesses the
board much less than a hammer.
cheers
paddy
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Guitar Adjuster
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by Guitar Adjuster »

This guy has a good selection of boards and turrets, etc. He is good to deal with.

http://www.turretboards.com/AMPLIFIER_B ... _TOOLS.htm
drz400
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eyelets

Post by drz400 »

Hey guys great group!

http://www.fastener-supply.com/
Every eyelet you can think of is here more like $20 for 1,000
This is where Fender gets their eyelets
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fabiomayo
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by fabiomayo »

I got the turrets and turrets installation tool from Hoffman.
Great! The turrets have a really small diameter but they're
easy to enlarge and easy to install and super easy to solder on!
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Bob-I
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Re: eyelets

Post by Bob-I »

drz400 wrote:Hey guys great group!

http://www.fastener-supply.com/
Every eyelet you can think of is here more like $20 for 1,000
This is where Fender gets their eyelets
To many choices, which one's :oops:
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sliberty
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Re: Some questions on Staking tools and eyelets

Post by sliberty »

The turrets or eyelets that you select depend upon your board material. For example:

http://www.tubetoneamps.com/productpage ... ilding.htm

The Black Paper Phenolic Laminate board is stated to be 1/16" thick. The eyelets just below it are 3/32", and are recommended for the Black Paper Phenolic Laminate board. This gives you enough length ti stick through a hole in the board, plus a little for spreading.

I have used this board and these eyelets, and they work really nicely. I also found that I could find the same eyelets at Michaels craft store.
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