D-Clone Pre-Amp (As Built)

[jam-mill]

This amp started life a little more than a year ago as a Ceriatone 50W kit (please no flamer or hater comments) using locally-purchased Mercury Magnetics transformers. It did not sound good (to me) with a Strat even after a significant break-in period. The schematic reflects changes to the pre-amp, which, I find, make it sound better and provide significant tonal flexibility. Hopefully someone else can benefit from this.

-jack

[10thTx]

Thank you for sharing it!

With respect, 10thtx

[chordball]

Thanks! Can you elaborate on what changes you made and more specifically, why?

[jcsifu]

Very cool bro! I have one of those ceriatone 50 waters that I might screw around with now that you brought focus.

I would very much like to know what your placement and type of switches looks like. Did you use push/pull pot for some or all switches? Whose out front and whose in the rear...Any pics of the placement?

[jam-mill]

Thanks! Can you elaborate on what changes you made and more specifically, why?

Please look at the schematic and check it against the Ceriatone layout diagram; differences will be (hopefully) obvious.

Regarding 'why', the overdrive did not have the characteristic smoothness that many others have described here. Also, the overall tone had that 'icepick' treble quality that does not appeal to me.

[jam-mill]

Very cool bro! I have one of those ceriatone 50 waters that I might screw around with now that you brought focus.

Thank-You for the kind comment.

I would very much like to know what your placement and type of switches looks like. Did you use push/pull pot for some or all switches? Whose out front and whose in the rear...Any pics of the placement?

An annotated picture has been uploaded. The LNFB switch is underneath the chassis near V1; taking advantage of a pre-drilled hole in the chassis.

[jcsifu]

I see, and the treble cut is far right. I did the same LNF switch position on mine as well. I find that usually I now during sound check that I what it in or out, once set I've never changed my mind during gig.

I really like that red look, for the same reason people like red sports cars.
The switch placement looks really nice as well.

May I ask why you chose to go all toggle switches and not use a push/pull pot for something? Just curious.

[jam-mill]

[...]
May I ask why you chose to go all toggle switches and not use a push/pull pot for something? Just curious.

Personal preference is all. Also, taking advantage of pre-drilled holes in the chassis. Only needed to drill holes in the faceplate.

[jcsifu]

Personal preference is all. Also, taking advantage of pre-drilled holes in the chassis. Only needed to drill holes in the faceplate.

Gotcha. I'm going to have to try your recipe...always looking for a reason to heat up the iron!

[jam-mill]

BTW, I don't really care for the sound of the OD when the 0.05u mid-cap is engaged. Others here have used and recommended smaller values.

[jcsifu]

BTW, I don't really care for the sound of the OD when the 0.05u mid-cap is engaged. Others here have used and recommended smaller values.

I must admit I have been curious about that. I don't play a strat too often and I am usually all OD. I have struggled to find a clean that I like using. At home I can find it, but at gig volumes it gets aggressive and I can't find a happy place for both OD and clean.

Maybe I will try an on/on/on switch for 3 options. I did that on my mid boost switch, (although an extra cap is needed for this application). Martin hashed out the design, though he refuses to take full credit for it...modesty.

https://tubeamparchive.com/download/file.php?id=39183

[Guy77]

Hi, I want to thank everyone that contributes there ideas here. I have learned so much here.

I happen to have a on/on/on switch handy and wanted to insert this mid cap switch . I wanted to confirm were the .002uf cap would be on my board. I attached the layout that I used to build my amp (minus the 2 tube reverb I added after MV).

Would I place this switch just before were I have the 330pf cap on the far right of the layout that comes from pin 1 of V1? I think I do not have this .002uf cap at all and its not part of the tweaked layout.


Thanks again.
Guy
Keep the iron hot!

[Structo]

Are you wanting the mid boost or mid cap switch?

The mid cap switch switcher between two values for the mid cap.

The mid boost accentuates more mids.

BTW, the mid cap is the .05uF on the far right, looking at it from the rear.

[Guy77]

Hi Structo!
Ok now I see it! On the layout that I used its actually .01uf cap. (first cap on the right of the board connecting to mid cap)
After thinking it over I would want a Mid Boost switch added to my amp.

Would the switch be used to bypass the .01uf cap at the far right of my board that connects to the Mid Pot?
I attached a pic circling the mid cap.

Thanks

[Guy77]

I figured it out. I took a look at the ceriatone overtone special layout and it all made sense!

I still can't believe people are giving up on the PAB for a mid boost when they only use 3 switches. I find the PAB an amazing feature on these amps. Maybe when I try the Mid Boost I'll change my mind!

Cheers
Guy

Keep the iron hot!