The new dumble modded bassman build video series... begins!

[pompeiisneaks]

I guess I could for sure, that makes sense.

I just have some aluminum sleeves I bought in bulk that I've used and was going to use. but that totally makes sense.

I'll see if someone local has them or if I should just order them.

Thanks!

~Phil

[sluckey]

You can still use your spacers/sleeves if you tap the chassis for appropriate machine screws. Or use self tapping machine screws (not sheet metal screws!) if you don't have a tap set. If you're gonna be using blank chassis, I highly recommend a tap set and handle. You wont regret it. Tapping screws makes for a clean look for things like tube sockets, cap cans, small chokes, doghouses, and much more. Takes longer, but my labor is real cheap these days.

[M Fowler]

Use female/male type standoffs. female is bolted to chassis and male threaded part is for the board.

Mark

6MU23_AS01 Standoff female-male.jpg

[pompeiisneaks]

You can still use your spacers/sleeves if you tap the chassis for appropriate machine screws. Or use self tapping machine screws (not sheet metal screws!) if you don't have a tap set. If you're gonna be using blank chassis, I highly recommend a tap set and handle. You wont regret it. Tapping screws makes for a clean look for things like tube sockets, cap cans, small chokes, doghouses, and much more. Takes longer, but my labor is real cheap these days.

I've been thinking more and more about this approach, I do like the idea of threaded holes preset for the screws.

~Phil

[didit]

You can still use your spacers/sleeves if you tap the chassis for appropriate machine screws. Or use self tapping machine screws (not sheet metal screws!) if you don't have a tap set. If you're gonna be using blank chassis, I highly recommend a tap set and handle. You wont regret it. Tapping screws makes for a clean look for things like tube sockets, cap cans, small chokes, doghouses, and much more. Takes longer, but my labor is real cheap these days.

I've been thinking more and more about this approach, I do like the idea of threaded holes preset for the screws.

Those appear to be aluminium boxes, which if so is kinda soft to be tapping threads directly. Press-fit threaded steel or similar would work if you want to avoid using stand-offs.

Best .. Ian

[pompeiisneaks]

You can still use your spacers/sleeves if you tap the chassis for appropriate machine screws. Or use self tapping machine screws (not sheet metal screws!) if you don't have a tap set. If you're gonna be using blank chassis, I highly recommend a tap set and handle. You wont regret it. Tapping screws makes for a clean look for things like tube sockets, cap cans, small chokes, doghouses, and much more. Takes longer, but my labor is real cheap these days.

I've been thinking more and more about this approach, I do like the idea of threaded holes preset for the screws.

Those appear to be aluminium boxes, which if so is kinda soft to be tapping threads directly. Press-fit threaded steel or similar would work if you want to avoid using stand-offs.

Best .. Ian

Yeah it is, and I'm more likely at this point to just go with the standoffs, just like the idea of tapping the holes. I know aluminum is soft, but for this use, wouldn't it be just fine? It's not holding some super heavy item, the circuit boards way sub 1 lb and the support is over multiple connections? I know vibrations make things works, with fracture mechanics something I do understand somewhat, but I'd almost think due to aluminum being softer, it would absorb that easier than harder materials...

~Phil

[Lothy]

BUT I've got an issue, maybe people have suggestions? One of the main boards screw holes happens to be right in the middle of the doghouse, so I can't install one or the other without some kind of 'trick' for that specific hole.

If the board screw is under a blank space of the filter board, I would consider a hole in the filter board, to have access to the screw head. Or move the filter board to a place, where you can use one of the existing mounting holes for the main board as well. As I can see, there might be a way to do it, if you turn it 90 deg. Two birds with one stone....

BTW, that caps are monsters!

Cheers
Gerhard

[sluckey]

Works fine for me. My chassis are .09" thick so plenty for 6-32 and 4-40 thread grip. I would never try to fasten a PT without kepnuts but I have mounted some small OTs and chokes with tapped threads. Here's an example. Tube sockets, IEC, cap cans, choke, and even small OT are securely fastened with tapped screws...

[pompeiisneaks]

yes lothy they are monsters lol. I already put the holes in the chassis for both boards but did one at a time, and then realized the collision. I don't want to drill more holes, and I think the suggested workarounds should be perfect.

Thanks sluckey, seems to make sense.,

[professormudd]

I guess I did not understand your problem.

I used these 1" standoffs for my 124.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3 ... UTF8&psc=1

They also have 1/2"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3 ... UTF8&psc=1

[pompeiisneaks]

Oh cool yeah I might just do that!

~Phil

[dbharris]

Phil, I have some extra standoffs like that. Happy to drop a set to you in the mail, let me know.

-Dan

[pompeiisneaks]

Phil, I have some extra standoffs like that. Happy to drop a set to you in the mail, let me know.

-Dan

Much appreciated but I already ordered the ones that professormud showed from amazon!

~Phil

[M Fowler]

I have also used bolts through tubing with nut bolting all that to chassis. Then slip board over remaining thread with another nut on top of board

Mark

[Guy77]

Hi Phil. Your build is looking great. Can't wait to hear your thoughts on how it sounds when its cranked!
I noticed this transformer (290YX) has 186v secondary. Will you be using a Bridge rectifier to increase the B+ .

Guy