Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

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greiswig
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by greiswig »

Okay, I edited my post to (hopefully) correct my typos and include some information Max pointed me to regarding the different tone stacks. Thank you!

So...I'm back to being puzzled. What I have now, then, is basically the "Classic" stack. The switch has not been something that I've ended up using much...it tends to stay in the Classic position.

The original D'Lite was basically a Skyliner stack built on a high-plate, two-tube version. What I have now is a low-plate amp, still two tubes but they're KT-88s.

But there's not very much bass there. It's almost as though there is a low-cut filter on it. Is a true Skyliner stack without the switching likely to supply a fuller sound for a low-plate amp?
-g
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greiswig
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by greiswig »

JD0x0 wrote:whats your slope resistor value? Somethings not right here if youre running 22/22 and dont have good bass still. Maybe its the power section/PI? What value cap is at pin 2 on the PI? if it's too low youre going to have less bass overall on both channels
Slope is 150k. The cap going to pin 2 is .02uF 6PS cap.
-g
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Structo
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by Structo »

Dunno that's pretty weird.

Have you tried 6L6 to see if there is a difference?
I doubt that power tubes could make that much difference.

I use two EVM 12'L's and I have not tried the 12-65 speakers.

But I have no shortage of bass. In fact I play a five string bass through this amp sometimes. (at lower volumes of course)
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greiswig
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by greiswig »

Structo wrote:Dunno that's pretty weird.

Have you tried 6L6 to see if there is a difference?
I doubt that power tubes could make that much difference.

I use two EVM 12'L's and I have not tried the 12-65 speakers.

But I have no shortage of bass. In fact I play a five string bass through this amp sometimes. (at lower volumes of course)
No, 6L6's sound about the same in the bass. I think the problem is before the power section. The speaker is not wanting for bass response...it's in the amp somewhere. The same speaker cabinet driven by the Tone King sounds plenty bassy.
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mlp-mx6
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by mlp-mx6 »

Are you certain that the PI entry cap is the correct size? For that matter, ALL of the caps in the PI?
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bluesfendermanblues
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by bluesfendermanblues »

Check your bass pots wiring / solder joints.
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Max
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by Max »

greiswig wrote:Slope is 150k. The cap going to pin 2 is .02uF 6PS cap.
Hi greiswig,

AFAIK the most usual slope resistor value in the "low plate classic" amps is 100K, just like in Tony's #124 "low plate classic" layout. #124 has been a rather typical "low plate classic" amp before its skyline update. Because of this Tony's #124 "low plate classic" layout is IMO a very good guide for someone who wants to go into this direction.

Cheers,

Max
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greiswig
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by greiswig »

Thanks everyone for the help. I really need to learn to just trust my ear. It turned out to be exactly what it sounded like to me: a low-cut filter.

I started measuring things, and the solid core copper lead between the bass cap and the the input to the bass pot measured over 100 ohms. It's a piece of wire! So I started wiggling things, and sure enough it broke off right next to the lug.

Replaced the lead, and everything is back to normal. Not as much bass as the Tone King, but plenty there. I guess I've been bouncing it around harder than I thought and it developed a stress fracture in the lead.

Sheesh...
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bluesfendermanblues
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by bluesfendermanblues »

bluesfendermanblues wrote:Check your bass pots wiring / solder joints.
Don't forget I told ya so ;-)
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Structo
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by Structo »

Another case of a solid core wire breaking and causing problems.

Solid core can only be bent so many times before it breaks.
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greiswig
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by greiswig »

bluesfendermanblues wrote:
bluesfendermanblues wrote:Check your bass pots wiring / solder joints.
Don't forget I told ya so ;-)
Heh! I didn't. And again, thanks to all of you for your ideas.

You get 1,000 points for being right, amigo!
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by bluesfendermanblues »

greiswig wrote:
bluesfendermanblues wrote:
bluesfendermanblues wrote:Check your bass pots wiring / solder joints.
Don't forget I told ya so ;-)
Heh! I didn't. And again, thanks to all of you for your ideas.

You get 1,000 points for being right, amigo!
Huh Huh, its my lucky day :D
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Structo
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by Structo »

Glad you got it sorted out George.

I hate those problems that you can't find.

Always makes you feel good when you finally figure out what was causing the symptom. :D
Tom

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Today
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by Today »

Greetings,

Here I come again, after many years... I am about to build a D amp #124 with CLEAN ONLY preamp (only one ECC83 valve), low plate classic with 100k slope and 100k anode resistors etc. My goal is to make CLEAN sound only, with just a touch of ¨crunch¨ on higher gain - think sound of Peter Green, Mark Knopfler, Brian Setzer, and the great variety of Nasville Telecaster players (I play Telecaster guitar and Gretsch guitar). Some people call such amps nowadays ¨pedal friendly¨. Yes, I guess that seems right - although I do not use any boost, fuzz, sustain... pedals. I only use CALI76 compressor predal in front of the amp input, as far as the signal chain goes betwen Telecaster or Gretsch guitar that I play.

For tone stack it is really unclear to me what would be Treble, Mid, Bass pot values and tapers that are good for me. I was reading a lot these days here, and it seems that THE MORE I READ THE LESS I KNOW (actually, the less I am certain of what to make). Some poeple and some schematics and layots make it look that it is like this for those pots:

Classic: Treble is 250kA (Audio/log taper), Mid 100kB (linear), Bass 500kA (Audio).
Skyline: Treble 250kA, Mid 250kA, Bass 500kA (all Audio/log tapers).

However, some seemingly knowledgeable member stated in some thread, that Treble pot is ¨a mixer¨ and that ¨it is good to be LINEAR (250kB)¨! It seems to me that it is right (?). Second, someone else stated that Mid with 250kA pot ¨adds mid boost¨, which in my opinion should be the role of Mid pot anyway. I also red that instead of 500kA for Bass it is OK to use 250kA pot (which seems OK to me - however, Ceriatone D-amps all have 500kA for the Bass pot, except one, named after famous guitar player, who uses 250kA pot for Bass, which looks good to me).

So, right now my idea of semi-final choice for this build is:

Treble 250kB (linear)
Mid 250kA (log)
Bass 250kA (log)

COULD YOU HELP ME MAKE FINAL CHOICE from this semi-final, kindly? Thanks in advance.
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bepone
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Re: Fattening the clean side of a non-HRM

Post by bepone »

values are ok, for your clean sound more important are slope resistor in tone stack (150k on skyliner, 100k normal fender values but can go also lower) and treble capacitor (270pF-330pF normally for clean), mid capacitor (47nF recommended for cleans) and bass keep 100nF for the start.. this will be nice clean, classic Fenderish
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