My Dumbleator

[M Fowler]

Ken,

My frontpanel software will not convert to pdf but I can print as you stated and have not try to make my panels that way, always endup order from then instead.

[kd]

My frontpanel software will not convert to pdf but I can print as you stated and have not try to make my panels that way, always endup order from then instead.

The software won't do the conversion to PDF, you'll need another piece of software to do that after saving the file. CutePDF is a freeware program available on the net and will do the conversion to PDF.

Ken

[Sonny ReVerb]

CutePDF is great - I use it a lot. It acts like a printer driver, but instead of printing to paper it 'prints' to a PDF file.

http://www.cutepdf.com/

[kd]

CutePDF is great - I use it a lot. It acts like a printer driver, but instead of printing to paper it 'prints' to a PDF file.

It really is a good little piece of software, I use it a lot. Thanks for the link.

Ken

[Structo]

Tom, these are the posted values from Funk's tutorial. There is a discrepancy with your values. Is that due to the differing tranny.

ange

https://tubeamparchive.com/download/file.php?id=4673

Which value is wrong Ange?
I certainly don't want to publish anything that is not correct.

Are you talking about the PCB values or my power supply?
If it is the PS I am using a different PT with lower voltages.

[Structo]

[quote="kd"]Tom,

You might want to go to the link below and download the free software called Front Panel Designer. It not real fancy but you can make some decent looking face plates with it. I printed mine on poster board in my printer. You could also convert it to a PDF file and go to Kinko's and get a different material printed.
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/


Ken[/quote
Yes I have that loaded on my PC.
But I really never messed with it that much.
I'll have to give it another look.
Thanks, Tom

[boldaslove6789]

Could building a d-lator be a good entry level into building? I got the D-clone already so I would like to build the d-lator by myself instead of waiting for ceriatone'sto come out or just buying one.


If any body has a build of materials and a some mouser part #'s I would greatly appreciate it? (I haven't searched for it yet)

I already have been skimming threw Funk's step by step and keeping up with Structo's build so far so I think I could do it.The only thing I
would have to do is find a little bit more on making the boards etc.
I do have the knowledge of basic electronics and do have the resource's/tools


Thanks to all you nice folks on the here for having this info available

[angelodp]

Tom, Happy New Year!!

I am looking at that .47uF cap into pin 3 ..... you have .047

and the 1k3 parallel with the electrolytic cap 47uf cap ... you show 1k2

Not sure if that small difference matters on the later but the the former is a big difference.

cheers ange ...... how does it sound

[kd]

I haven't done a bill of materials for the unit yet so I can't help with the Mouser part numbers. You can get the garolite G10 board from Hoffman or www.WattsTubeAudio.com or McMaster-Carr. The eyelets can be gotten from Watts Tube or Mouser, Mouser P/N 534-46.

Ken

[heisthl]

Here's a partial BOM I found from when I was making these - not sure how complete it is or even if that's the right tube socket. At least it's a good starting point.

[boldaslove6789]

Thanks guys,I appreciate it


That BOM list will save some time and painstaking searching.


Heisthl,

Do of you know what a round about price it will be if I roughly followed your BOM list ? In USA $ , excluding shipping charges.

[heisthl]

AT the time I made it the whole list including the enclosure and transformers was $136.00 That included wire,screws and everything.

[Structo]

Tom, Happy New Year!!

I am looking at that .47uF cap into pin 3 ..... you have .047

and the 1k3 parallel with the electrolytic cap 47uf cap ... you show 1k2

Not sure if that small difference matters on the later but the the former is a big difference.

cheers ange ...... how does it sound

Thanks Ange, I fixed the values.

I think I put the 1K2 because I could not source a 1K3 resistor.
Not a common value.

I bought everything at Antique Electronic Supply.
I bought a blank tag board from them because they were out of the turret board.
In the end I decided I want blank G10 material so I bought a 12" one from Hoffman.
Like I said I didn't want a rack mount enclosure so I bought the Hammond box. It will sit under my amp head.
Here is my BOM that I used to order from AES.

Power Transformer P-TF47609
Choke P-CF22707
Hammond 17x10x3 black powder coated box P-H1441-32BK3
Cover Plate for box P-H1431-30BK3

Electrolytic Caps 2 x 47uf 450v
Electrolytic Caps 2 x 33uf 450v
3 x 1N4007
15K 2w power resistor
100K 3w power resistor
330R 1/2w LED resistor
Red LED w/ holder
________________________________
Film Caps:
1 x .22uf
1 x .05uf
1 x .47uf
1 x .001uf
1 x 270pf
1 x .1uf
1 x 500pf Ceramic or Silver Mica
1 x 47uf E cap
______________________________
Resistors:
1 x 1M
1 x 27K
1 x 1K8
2 x 10M
1 x 100K
1 x 1K3
______________________________
3 x 250KA Pots
2 x Switchcraft 1/4" Jack
2 x Switchcraft 1/4" shorting Jack
_______________________________
1 x 9 pin socket
2 x SPST on-off

1 x fuseholder

[Structo]

SUCCESS!

Man, this thing kicked my ass all day long.
I did have one wiring mistake but when I finally hooked it up to my amp, I got a horrendous buzz!
Oh boy, what did I do wrong?

Tore into it, double and triple checking it. Finally I really couldn't find anything wrong but I had separated the heater wires from the bundle and also separated the B+ wires to the board.
A little voice whispered into my ear and said, hey, maybe it's the tube.......
Uh yeah, keep it simple stupid.

New tube and it fired right up.
I must have fried the tube when I was troubleshooting it.

Seemed pretty quiet or no more noisy than the amp was before in my room where my computer is always on.
Now I just have to figure out how to adjust the pots.
I'll have to try a few tubes through it to hear what sounds best.

I take it the Drive pot is sort of like a pre-gain control and the recovery pots are to balance the effects gain?
Anybody have an instruction manual?

[ToneMerc]

by step and keeping up with Structo's build so far so I think I could do it.The only thing I
would have to do is find a little bit more on making the boards etc.
I do have the knowledge of basic electronics and do have the resource's/tools

Making the boards isn't that hard.I used 1/16" board material from Ken Watts and Brandon was dead on about using a heavy duty paper cutter, as it cuts the thinner board material like butter.
I used a Belton PC socket of which I found a PDF file online of the socket spacing. I blew it up (IIRC to 107%)until it matched the exact spacing of the socket. I then used this as a template to drill the socket holes. The remaining holes, I just eyeballed.

TM