Oddvar R wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2019 8:42 am
I am just a hobby builder, so I take some pleasure in sourcing stuff. Either hiend or the original nos/nib stuff. I build a Marshall Plexi with all the original caps an resistors. When I buildt the Dumble , I tried to find what exact resistors to use, I would have liked to get a more precise list, but I guess that might be wishful thinking. A indicator on how to best do the wiring would also be nice. But the first build sounded great eventually, the second time I might be a bit more forseeing on how to lay out stuff. I build a Soldano Slo from C3-amps, and he had a great pictorial on how to proceed. Made it a lot easier.
well the layout is exactly to show you how things are laid out so between that, the schematic and a BOM, oh and there's quite a few internal photos too, you have everything you need to build a Clone of #183. If you do a forum or google search of this forum there have been discussions about exact resistor types, also check out some of the first #183 build threads as I think IIRC there's a couple of builds that try and get as close as possible with original parts, everything else is on the layout.
So, if anyone could enlighten me on what kind of resistors are on the layout for the #183 build, eccept for the Nte's, the yellow colored ones, the white one and the greyed 4k7 one?
The Nte's seem to be difficult to get in Europe, Nte themselves don't answer mails, so I will use Takman 1/2 w metal films instead. Any views?
Oddvar R wrote: ↑Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:51 pm
So, if anyone could enlighten me on what kind of resistors are on the layout for the #183 build, eccept for the Nte's, the yellow colored ones, the white one and the greyed 4k7 one?
The Nte's seem to be difficult to get in Europe, Nte themselves don't answer mails, so I will use Takman 1/2 w metal films instead. Any views?
Oddvar R wrote: ↑Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:51 pm
So, if anyone could enlighten me on what kind of resistors are on the layout for the #183 build, eccept for the Nte's, the yellow colored ones, the white one and the greyed 4k7 one?
The Nte's seem to be difficult to get in Europe, Nte themselves don't answer mails, so I will use Takman 1/2 w metal films instead. Any views?
183 has a combination of several different MF resistors. Yes the Light blue ones with the glossy finish are NTE HW's. The slightly darker blue ones are Roederstien's MK3's . The carbon films (yellow) ones are Draloric-Sprague Q-lines (good luck finding those). The light blue one on V1A's grid looks to be the lone Mepco. Dumble sometimes uses these here. The red one on V2A is a 1att Phier. The NFB resistor looks to be NTE Metal oxide and the gnd resistor for the GNFB is a CF one from Radio Shack (I think?). If you cannot find the NTE's you can just go all MK'3's on the RP/RK will get you real close.
You can find those on E-Bay. Last time I looked they were there.
BTW.Do you have a picture of the inside of 183?
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
I also wonder about the voltage on the caps in the powersupply, some say 250v, some say 400 volt and I've seen 350 v. Any views on the ultimate voltage?
Oddvar R wrote: ↑Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:57 pm
I also wonder about the voltage on the caps in the powersupply, some say 250v, some say 400 volt and I've seen 350 v. Any views on the ultimate voltage?
Just follow the #183 lay-out. The second node has a higher voltage rating. The 3rd, 4rd and 5th node are lower voltage rating. Consequense is the difference in size and distance between the + and - wire.
Mouser has radial caps that fit your PCB: Panasonic electrolytics: part no. 667-EEU-ED2V470SB and 667-EEU-ED2E470B
Last edited by erwin_ve on Thu Jul 18, 2019 5:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
Oddvar R wrote: ↑Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:57 pm
I also wonder about the voltage on the caps in the powersupply, some say 250v, some say 400 volt and I've seen 350 v. Any views on the ultimate voltage?
I don't get it. What is there to "wonder"?
The layout in the files section has all the cap values and working voltages right there. These were taken from a friend of mine who at the time had 183 in his shop and blueprinted it accurately. Follow the layout for all the values and voltages use the picture I sent you if you want to track down the exact resistors I gave you in my earlier post. Between the picture and the layout should more than cover you.
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
Oddvar R wrote: ↑Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:57 pm
I also wonder about the voltage on the caps in the powersupply, some say 250v, some say 400 volt and I've seen 350 v. Any views on the ultimate voltage?
I don't get it. What is there to "wonder"?
The layout in the files section has all the cap values and working voltages right there. These were taken from a friend of mine who at the time had 183 in his shop and blueprinted it accurately. Follow the layout for all the values and voltages use the picture I sent you if you want to track down the exact resistors I gave you in my earlier post. Between the picture and the layout should more than cover you.
Tony
No offense meant. I just see different values, in different builds. The board I have now says 400v.
Oddvar R wrote: ↑Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:51 pm
So, if anyone could enlighten me on what kind of resistors are on the layout for the #183 build, eccept for the Nte's, the yellow colored ones, the white one and the greyed 4k7 one?
The Nte's seem to be difficult to get in Europe, Nte themselves don't answer mails, so I will use Takman 1/2 w metal films instead. Any views?
183 has a combination of several different MF resistors. Yes the Light blue ones with the glossy finish are NTE HW's. The slightly darker blue ones are Roederstien's MK3's . The carbon films (yellow) ones are Draloric-Sprague Q-lines (good luck finding those). The light blue one on V1A's grid looks to be the lone Mepco. Dumble sometimes uses these here. The red one on V2A is a 1att Phier. The NFB resistor looks to be NTE Metal oxide and the gnd resistor for the GNFB is a CF one from Radio Shack (I think?). If you cannot find the NTE's you can just go all MK'3's on the RP/RK will get you real close.
You can find those on E-Bay. Last time I looked they were there.
BTW.Do you have a picture of the inside of 183?
Tony
Tony, if #183 is close to my amp which is a few numbers short, the NFB resistor is an 1 W NTE metal film. From the only pic I have of #183 they look the same.
Oddvar R wrote: ↑Fri Jul 12, 2019 8:51 pm
So, if anyone could enlighten me on what kind of resistors are on the layout for the #183 build, eccept for the Nte's, the yellow colored ones, the white one and the greyed 4k7 one?
The Nte's seem to be difficult to get in Europe, Nte themselves don't answer mails, so I will use Takman 1/2 w metal films instead. Any views?
183 has a combination of several different MF resistors. Yes the Light blue ones with the glossy finish are NTE HW's. The slightly darker blue ones are Roederstien's MK3's . The carbon films (yellow) ones are Draloric-Sprague Q-lines (good luck finding those). The light blue one on V1A's grid looks to be the lone Mepco. Dumble sometimes uses these here. The red one on V2A is a 1att Phier. The NFB resistor looks to be NTE Metal oxide and the gnd resistor for the GNFB is a CF one from Radio Shack (I think?). If you cannot find the NTE's you can just go all MK'3's on the RP/RK will get you real close.
You can find those on E-Bay. Last time I looked they were there.
BTW.Do you have a picture of the inside of 183?
Tony
Tony, if #183 is close to my amp which is a few numbers short, the NFB resistor is an 1 W NTE metal film. From the only pic I have of #183 they look the same.
Kind regards
Ian
Ian
Thanks.
Perhaps you can clear up my confusion then
In this shot I have of 183 you can see the NTE metal films on the PI plates. These are also called "Flameproof" and are what I call the metal films HW's. The FB resistor is slightly lighter and has a dull finish. I've also seen these resistors in the precision power supply Dumble loads in many of his amps and they look exactly the same. Ive used these NTE metal oxide resistors before and also the color looks the same. So do you by chance know the part number of those NTE "metal film" resistors with this light blue finish with the dull look that you say are metal film?
Thanks for your help!
Ripper
Picture 110.jpg
183
#1831000.jpg
IMG_7908.jpg
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" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
183 has a combination of several different MF resistors. Yes the Light blue ones with the glossy finish are NTE HW's. The slightly darker blue ones are Roederstien's MK3's . The carbon films (yellow) ones are Draloric-Sprague Q-lines (good luck finding those). The light blue one on V1A's grid looks to be the lone Mepco. Dumble sometimes uses these here. The red one on V2A is a 1att Phier. The NFB resistor looks to be NTE Metal oxide and the gnd resistor for the GNFB is a CF one from Radio Shack (I think?). If you cannot find the NTE's you can just go all MK'3's on the RP/RK will get you real close.
You can find those on E-Bay. Last time I looked they were there.
BTW.Do you have a picture of the inside of 183?
Tony
Tony, if #183 is close to my amp which is a few numbers short, the NFB resistor is an 1 W NTE metal film. From the only pic I have of #183 they look the same.
Kind regards
Ian
Ian
Thanks.
Perhaps you can clear up my confusion then
In this shot I have of 183 you can see the NTE metal films on the PI plates. These are also called "Flameproof" and are what I call the metal films HW's. The FB resistor is slightly lighter and has a dull finish. I've also seen these resistors in the precision power supply Dumble loads in many of his amps and they look exactly the same. Ive used these NTE metal oxide resistors before and also the color looks the same. So do you by chance know the part number of those NTE "metal film" resistors with this light blue finish with the dull look that you say are metal film?
Thanks for your help!
Ripper
Picture 110.jpg
183
#1831000.jpg
IMG_7908.jpg
Hi Tony, my apologies. They are indeed NTE Metal Oxide. I just checked a pack that I have and on the NTE site and they are Metal Oxide film flameproof. Sorry for the confusion....I should check my stuff better before opening my mouth.
