Lettering

[toneman]

After a number of builds useing dry transfer letters(Woodland scenics model graphics) one letter at a time. Not the dumble norm but it looks good(need a lot of patience). I had orded Pulsar products for PCB projects and noticed they had some thing for dry transfer also. Has any one tried this yet?? looks interesting for us builders who only do 2 or 3 a year.(tight ass) Waiting for colored Laser printer to arrive Saturday from Best Buy..got a deal, saved a 100$ on a 300$ printer(tight ass)

[Structo]

So you got a color laser printer for $200?

Are you going to make waterslide decals with it?

[toneman]

Don,t know yet just got it today. From what I had read it should work for Vol Treb Bass etc..pain in the $#@&^ one letter at a time .But you should be able to do the correct font for Logo. Have to find the time to see

[Bob-I]

I have Kinkos print it and laminate it, then glue it on.

[scattitude]

It took a while to figure out, and while it doesn't yield perfect results, here is what I did:

Because inkjet and laser printers cannot print white ink (it comes out clear), and because most chassis's are black, to get white lettering, I print a black box with white lettering on decal stock. Then I use white paint on the area of the chassis only enough to cover the area for the lettering. When the decal is transferred, the white paint shows through the clear lettering. I then add at least 3 coats of laquer to seal the decal. If you don't have decal stock, you can also use clear address labels. It won't look like it was silkscreened, but the lettering will be clear and sharp if you are careful, and unless you are up real close, the result should look professional enough.

[blue_dog]

It took a while to figure out, and while it doesn't yield perfect results, here is what I did:

Because inkjet and laser printers cannot print white ink (it comes out clear), and because most chassis's are black, to get white lettering, I print a black box with white lettering on decal stock. Then I use white paint on the area of the chassis only enough to cover the area for the lettering. When the decal is transferred, the white paint shows through the clear lettering. I then add at least 3 coats of laquer to seal the decal. If you don't have decal stock, you can also use clear address labels. It won't look like it was silkscreened, but the lettering will be clear and sharp if you are careful, and unless you are up real close, the result should look professional enough.

can you take a picture? Just wondering how it comes out.

[scattitude]

It took a while to figure out, and while it doesn't yield perfect results, here is what I did:

Because inkjet and laser printers cannot print white ink (it comes out clear), and because most chassis's are black, to get white lettering, I print a black box with white lettering on decal stock. Then I use white paint on the area of the chassis only enough to cover the area for the lettering. When the decal is transferred, the white paint shows through the clear lettering. I then add at least 3 coats of laquer to seal the decal. If you don't have decal stock, you can also use clear address labels. It won't look like it was silkscreened, but the lettering will be clear and sharp if you are careful, and unless you are up real close, the result should look professional enough.

can you take a picture? Just wondering how it comes out.

...here ya go...

[Structo]

Is that the Rocket Font?

[toneman]

That looks Great,mine does not look as good as yours. The font is 3/16 too far to the left but for a one of, it works for me. I could have done it by going to Kinkos but I want to do this my self. It's just a hobbie with great satisfaction. There is some products at Micro-Mark that I want to try that will do white lettering.#822272 for inkjet or#82277 for laser and inkjet. #82400 finishing system to make film disappear. For amps that need one loggo etc. For me tone is everything... But I would like to do this myself Just a learning curve.