Correct bias circuit
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
- Funkalicousgroove
- Posts: 2235
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:04 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
Correct bias circuit
So, I see alot of wrong bias circuits on the schematics out there, so here is the correct bias circuit for my chassis, HRM's and BM's.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
-
tele_player
- Posts: 311
- Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 3:27 am
Re: Correct bias circuit
Why the extra cap?
Re: Correct bias circuit
The schematic supplied follows the actual Dumble bias supply, for starters. Secondly, it is a good idea to have a well-filtered bias supply while keeping the time constant of the circuit under control. Thus, using a cascaded filter is a good idea; one might be tempted to use a larger single cap instead, for exmaple, but that could be a problem because the supply network might start loading down the 220K feeding resistors that carry the bias voltage to the power tubes' grids.tele_player wrote:Why the extra cap?
Cheers,
Gil
- mdroberts1243
- Posts: 287
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:59 pm
- Location: Ottawa, Canada
- Contact:
Rectifier board in Funk Chassis kit
Hi Funk,
What is the correct way to use your rectifier board in the assembly?
I found an old posting of yours that seems to have the rectifier board pretty much the same as the current pics you shared...
I couldn't see the 27k resistor on the board, but there appears to be a 'tail' resistor on the bias pot itself... I assume this is so you only have to route two wires from the bias/rectifier board.
Please see the attached pictures... two excerpts from your previous assembly drawings and the 'layout' proposed in the visio drawing that I've been posting... let me know if I've got it right!
Thanks,
What is the correct way to use your rectifier board in the assembly?
I found an old posting of yours that seems to have the rectifier board pretty much the same as the current pics you shared...
I couldn't see the 27k resistor on the board, but there appears to be a 'tail' resistor on the bias pot itself... I assume this is so you only have to route two wires from the bias/rectifier board.
Please see the attached pictures... two excerpts from your previous assembly drawings and the 'layout' proposed in the visio drawing that I've been posting... let me know if I've got it right!
Thanks,
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-mark.
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
- skyboltone
- Posts: 2287
- Joined: Wed May 10, 2006 7:02 pm
- Location: Sparks, NV, where nowhere looks like home.
Re: Correct bias circuit
This is for a transformer with a separate bias winding. Normster has published a couple of schemes for tapping off the HV winding.
The Last of the World's Great Human Beings
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
- glasman
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:37 pm
- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
- Contact:
Re: Rectifier board in Funk Chassis kit
As I remember, the 27K is grounded to the body of the pot. Gil or Brandon can correct me.mdroberts1243 wrote:Hi Funk,
What is the correct way to use your rectifier board in the assembly?
I found an old posting of yours that seems to have the rectifier board pretty much the same as the current pics you shared...
I couldn't see the 27k resistor on the board, but there appears to be a 'tail' resistor on the bias pot itself... I assume this is so you only have to route two wires from the bias/rectifier board.
Please see the attached pictures... two excerpts from your previous assembly drawings and the 'layout' proposed in the visio drawing that I've been posting... let me know if I've got it right!
Thanks,
BTW, A nice little add is to put a small poly cap (.1uf or so) across the second cap to get rid of the HF stuff that can appear on some amps and to ensure that the bottom of the 220K's stay at AC ground.
Gary
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
- mdroberts1243
- Posts: 287
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:59 pm
- Location: Ottawa, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Correct bias circuit
The Twinman replacement tranny (I'm using the new Hammond 290FX) has a 60V bias tap on it.skyboltone wrote:This is for a transformer with a separate bias winding. Normster has published a couple of schemes for tapping off the HV winding.
-mark.
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
- Funkalicousgroove
- Posts: 2235
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:04 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
Re: Correct bias circuit
MD,
You have it almost correct, look at the schematic.
The 2 positive ends do indeed go to ground, but as your board is wired you have no voltage. Try bringing the negative ends of each of your caps to an eyelet, and run your ground wire directly from the positive of one of the caps.
Both the 27K (I usually use 24K but the big guy used 27) and the bias circuit ground at the same place near the bias pot.
You have it almost correct, look at the schematic.
The 2 positive ends do indeed go to ground, but as your board is wired you have no voltage. Try bringing the negative ends of each of your caps to an eyelet, and run your ground wire directly from the positive of one of the caps.
Both the 27K (I usually use 24K but the big guy used 27) and the bias circuit ground at the same place near the bias pot.
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
- mdroberts1243
- Posts: 287
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:59 pm
- Location: Ottawa, Canada
- Contact:
Re: Correct bias circuit
Thanks Funk!Funkalicousgroove wrote:MD,
You have it almost correct, look at the schematic.
The 2 positive ends do indeed go to ground, but as your board is wired you have no voltage. Try bringing the negative ends of each of your caps to an eyelet, and run your ground wire directly from the positive of one of the caps.
Both the 27K (I usually use 24K but the big guy used 27) and the bias circuit ground at the same place near the bias pot.
Does the attached look right?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-mark.
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
My tube blog & link directory: http://tubenexus.com
Cause & Effect Pedals FET Dream and Dumble Style Chassis
- Funkalicousgroove
- Posts: 2235
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:04 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
Re: Correct bias circuit
MD,
I wire mine up a bit differently, but what you have works just fine.
Not that it makes a difference, but I generally wire the caps down to the 2 eyelets in the corner, and take the ground directly off the eyelet that the caps are connected to, My reasoning is that the more stuff you shove in with a diode the longer you have to heat it to get the solder to melt, and the greater the risk of damaging the diode.
Perhaps I'm just being anal....
I wire mine up a bit differently, but what you have works just fine.
Not that it makes a difference, but I generally wire the caps down to the 2 eyelets in the corner, and take the ground directly off the eyelet that the caps are connected to, My reasoning is that the more stuff you shove in with a diode the longer you have to heat it to get the solder to melt, and the greater the risk of damaging the diode.
Perhaps I'm just being anal....
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
Re: Correct bias circuit
I had a hum problem on a BF Deluxe I built and adding the extra cap on the Bias output cleaned it right up. Very cheap hum insurance.
I never thought about adding the small poly cap, but it also makes good sense. Thanks Gary!
Dave
I never thought about adding the small poly cap, but it also makes good sense. Thanks Gary!
Dave
- glasman
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:37 pm
- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
- Contact:
Re: Correct bias circuit
No Problem, the small poly cap makes for a much better AC ground than the electolytic by itself.dguidry wrote:I had a hum problem on a BF Deluxe I built and adding the extra cap on the Bias output cleaned it right up. Very cheap hum insurance.
I never thought about adding the small poly cap, but it also makes good sense. Thanks Gary!
Dave
Gary
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
- Funkalicousgroove
- Posts: 2235
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:04 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
- glasman
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:37 pm
- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
- Contact:
Re: Correct bias circuit
.1uf is big enough in most cases.Funkalicousgroove wrote:how big should the poly cap be?
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
-
Guitarman18
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:32 pm
- Location: UK
Re: Correct bias circuit
glasman wrote:
Thanks, Paul.
Just to clarify, do you mean the cap that is connected to the bias pot wiper?BTW, A nice little add is to put a small poly cap (.1uf or so) across the second cap to get rid of the HF stuff that can appear on some amps and to ensure that the bottom of the 220K's stay at AC ground.
Thanks, Paul.