Sourcing the parts...

[Trainlover]

EDIT: ADVICE DELETED
I won't waste my time with ignorant assholes but you all carry on please

Now everybody can see who the disrespectful and bad-mannered person really is... Thanks for making that clearer to everyone. Insulting someone because he didn't say thank you personally is a bit over-reacting isn't it?

As for the adjective "ignorant" I must confess it is true regarding Dumbles which is why I'm asking for info here. As for other amps, Marshalls, Fenders and Trainwrecks, I have built several dozens of them. So you don't really know who I am and what I've done to be able to judge. A simple research over my username would have pointed you to my Trainwreck build thread posted on this forum and you also would have seen that I'm a person who really thanks all the persons who help and never despise anyone.

[rogb]

EDIT: ADVICE DELETED
I won't waste my time with ignorant assholes but you all carry on please

Now everybody can see who the disrespectful and bad-mannered person really is... Thanks for making that clearer to everyone. Insulting someone because he didn't say thank you personally is a bit over-reacting isn't it?

As for the adjective "ignorant" I must confess it is true regarding Dumbles which is why I'm asking for info here. As for other amps, Marshalls, Fenders and Trainwrecks, I have built several dozens of them. So you don't really know who I am and what I've done to be able to judge. A simple research over my username would have pointed you to my Trainwreck build thread posted on this forum and you also would have seen that I'm a person who really thanks all the persons who help and never despise anyone.

What? - your 20 lousy posts building a kit gives you a special right to be ignorant?
Tip: to get on here, thank all the people who chip in, don't disrespect anyone who tries to help.
But, oh, you didn't do that, you chose who to thank because they gave you the easy way to get the info.
Nope,, you remain an ill-mannered asshole, sorry bout that...

[Tubetastic]

But, oh, you didn't do that, you chose who to thank because they gave you the easy way to get the info.

I wouldn't take it personally rogb - and he probably didn't mean it as a slur by not thanking you.

People can be selective - I've spent enough time on forums posting info/links for no thanks. I just accept it to be that way. People are people.

[rogb]

But, oh, you didn't do that, you chose who to thank because they gave you the easy way to get the info.

I wouldn't take it personally rogb - and he probably didn't mean it as a slur by not thanking you.

People can be selective - I've spent enough time on forums posting info/links for no thanks. I just accept it to be that way. People are people.

You're right, thanks for the chill pill, bud.
To Train lover, I apologize for calling you an asshole.
Good luck in your Dumble quest

[Trainlover]

To Train lover, I apologize for calling you an asshole.
Good luck in your Dumble quest

Apologies gladly accepted rogb.
I think I'm going to build a 100w after all, the #102 looks good! Damn, #124 as well... Which of all the Dumbles is the cleanest, roundest beast?

I have noticed though that the CE chassis has an impedance selector on the backpanel and that option is inexistant through the various layouts I have seen on the Dumble files section. I would have prefered the 100w/50w switch instead of that selector. Do you know anyone else who makes Dumble chassis?

One more thing as well: If I have understood things well, no one sells a fitting two-button pedal with 5-pin DIN connection so every guy over here had to build their own footswitch, right?

Thanks everyone!

[ayan]

Just chiming in to say that I wouldn't bother with the 50/100W switch, I've yet to hear of anyone that liked the amp's sound better in 50W mode. In my opinion, the "best" sound -- because it has a little sponginess that I like -- is using an 8-ohm load into a 4-ohm tap.

The newer Dumbles all had an impedance selector switch (4 - 8- 16) and there are plenty of pictures of those amps showing how he wired the switch. At some point, many years ago, I even had a thread where I gave the part number of the switch and talked about it:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ele ... NJxA%3d%3d

And yes, as far as I know you're right about the footswitch.

Cheers,

Gil

To Train lover, I apologize for calling you an asshole.
Good luck in your Dumble quest

Apologies gladly accepted rogb.
I think I'm going to build a 100w after all, the #102 looks good! Damn, #124 as well... Which of all the Dumbles is the cleanest, roundest beast?

I have noticed though that the CE chassis has an impedance selector on the backpanel and that option is inexistant through the various layouts I have seen on the Dumble files section. I would have prefered the 100w/50w switch instead of that selector. Do you know anyone else who makes Dumble chassis?

One more thing as well: If I have understood things well, no one sells a fitting two-button pedal with 5-pin DIN connection so every guy over here had to build their own footswitch, right?

Thanks everyone!

[Trainlover]

Thank you Gil!

After further readings, I'm going to settle on #124. I'll keep you posted on the parts sourcing. I need to find the proper footswitch and NTE Relays...

[Trainlover]

Coming back here after lengthy reading times. I have read the last 40 pages of the Dumble discussion threads and all the pages of the Dumble files.

I'm definitely settled on building a replica of #124. However I have spotted two things that tickle me (two for now, more to come surely...):

1. There's a 10uF cap can on the latest #124 layout I have found (offered by structo)
https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... 9&start=75

But the CE Chassis isn't drilled for that cap can and I have seen numerous #124 builds that didn't use that cap can... So is there another layout without the cap can somewhere? Or do you implement it?

2. The Dumble ODS 100w pedal is supposed to be a two-button pedal, right? I have seen three-button several times and I don't get it... Is there a pedal you recommend getting?

Thanks a lot for your help, I plan to start putting up a Mouser project soon...

[martin manning]

1. There's a 10uF cap can on the latest #124 layout I have found (offered by structo)
https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... 9&start=75

But the CE Chassis isn't drilled for that cap can and I have seen numerous #124 builds that didn't use that cap can... So is there another layout without the cap can somewhere? Or do you implement it?

2. The Dumble ODS 100w pedal is supposed to be a two-button pedal, right? I have seen three-button several times and I don't get it... Is there a pedal you recommend getting?

The cap can in #124 is two 10's paralleled to make a 20. Unless you are hung up on making an exact 124 clone it's much easier and cleaner to use the so-called Precision Power Supply. There is a PCB available, or you can make your own eyelet board. Reducing the reservoir caps from 300u to 220u is not a big deal IMO, and then all of the filters can be located on that one board.

Many people have added a third relay and a include another footswitch-able function. Two- and three-button footswitch assemblies are available from Antique Electronics (sold as Marshall replacement), but most people end up modifying them with different cables and connectors.

You have to stretch beyond the "kit" mentality here, unless of course you by a Ceriatone kit.

[Trainlover]

The cap can in #124 is two 10's paralleled to make a 20. Unless you are hung up on making an exact 124 clone it's much easier and cleaner to use the so-called Precision Power Supply. There is a PCB available, or you can make your own eyelet board. Reducing the reservoir caps from 300u to 220u is not a big deal IMO, and then all of the filters can be located on that one board.

Fine, I get it! I was wondering what the difference between the Precision Power Supply and the Standard Power Supply boards was (besides PTP vs PCB obviously). Basically, with the Standard one you need to add the dual 10uF cap can and with the Precision one you don't need it since the equivalent is located on the PCB board, is that it?

Many people have added a third relay and a include another footswitch-able function. Two- and three-button footswitch assemblies are available from Antique Electronics (sold as Marshall replacement), but most people end up modifying them with different cables and connectors.

You have to stretch beyond the "kit" mentality here, unless of course you by a Ceriatone kit.

OK. I'm gonna go with the standard 2-button Marshall replacement with LEDs then. One actually needs to rewire all the guts, get the cable out and install a 5-pin din socket on the pedal instead of the wire coming out. Is that it?

I'm not getting a Ceriatone kit...
So far I'm settled on this:
CE chassis
Classictone Fender Twin PT/OT/Choke (or others if you think I can find better stuff for #124)
Boards from agbamplifiers

Thanks for your help and advice!

[jelle]

Classictone is great.

[Structo]

The Precision Power Supply is great and is well regulated.
It will give a tighter bottom end and smoother feel to the amp.

But if you want more of the vintage tone then build the standard power supply.

You just need to put that 20uF cap on the filter cap board.

Like so.

[ToneMerc]

Another option is moving a 20uf cap and string resistor over by V1 as seen in earlier generation amps.

I get the feeling you are more hung up on building an exact replica than a good sounding amp.

TM

[aflynt]

Heck, I just used F&T caps and got 7 caps on there so I could have a separate node for the built in loop too.

-Aaron

[Trainlover]

I get the feeling you are more hung up on building an exact replica than a good sounding amp. TM

Hi.
No, definitely not. The best sound I can get is my goal! Thanks to everyone who chimed in. I will get the Precision Power Supply then if the amp sounds smoother and has tighter bottom end with it!