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Here is some work i've done for for a buddy of mine.

Dumble style head cabinet and extension cab.

All made out of 3/4" birch back, laser cut, 1/2" finger joints.

Ill post finished photos later this week when they are finished.

I never knew they could cut would with a laser.

What keeps it from igniting during the cutting?

Is the "browning around the edges" a result of laser cutting?

The heat from the laser is so local, intense, and brief, that there is very little charring. The smoke, however, stains the wood, as you can see. Probably sands off pretty easily--stretch?

When I had my o-scope stand lasered, the birch they used came with protective paper stuck to it, like plastic or aluminum sometimes does, and thus the wood was protected from the smoke.

Tom- Yulp, the laser operates off the nitrogen gas emitted out the laser nozzle to conduct the beam. This means you can cut pretty much anything. A plasma couldn't be used for this because of the need for the negative conductor.

Tom & Lou

- The wood does catch fire but only for a split second. The reason why the inside of the cabinet has that slight black char to it is because of this flame.
AS far as the joint edges itself you can see though the "char" so I imagine its only a few thousands of an inch deep into the wood.

Xtian- Thanks for the help with the explanation and yes it does sand off super easy. About 20 seconds with a sanding block and some 3M 150grit sandpaper and it comes right off. Instead of using backing the tech just adjusted the speed of the laser and the gas output to compensate.

Ill attach a super up close image of an edge so you guys can see what I'm talking about.

Here are the test samples I used to make sure my clearances were correct.

Oh and Xtian, I owe you. Because your o scope stand is what gave me this idea.

stretch2011 wrote:Oh and Xtian, I owe you. Because your o scope stand is what gave me this idea.

I love this shiz, man. I wants a laser...hard.

Me too buddy! I wish I had the $1M for the 4000W one I'm using. But it can cut 3/4" plate steel. But doesn't due as fancy engravings.

How about $2000 for a 40-watt home model?

http://glowforge.com/

This tech is moving quickly and dropping in price like personal computers.

Likewise for the 3-axis table pricing! It looks like a grand can get you into the game nicely. Router, laser, hot-plastic-dripper,..etc.... The possibilities are mindboggling!

http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/c-beam ... aker.2020/

Dave O.

Those look interesting. If I spent the money I'd go with an epilog. Great machines that do awesome work, and they are in the same price range.

It looks like the finger joint cuts were made from the same piece of lumber, i.e. cutting one piece of lumber into two mating pieces? How thick is the cut with laser?

You are correct! All pieces were cut out of 1 4'×8' sheet or 3/4"

That took some black magic work. With steel the laser is .008" thick. So the first time I dive this with 1/2" thick birch back I made the drawing to have .005" all around and there was a massive clearance, probable .0625" give or take.

This time I made the joints with .5" fingers with .5" holes, and let the laser cut The clearance. So a .5" finger is closer to .480"-.495".

Note: Because of the thickness of the wood, the beam curves roughly 1-2 degrees. So one side might be slightly thicker than the other (.480-.495).

That's a nice use of technology! Tight joints, minimal waste, no saw dust. I'm impressed.

Thank you! Now I'd I had an automated grill clothe stretcher I'd 've in great shape.